02 sensors

TLush

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I had a brain fart. instead of mil elim's why couldn't you replace the rear 02's with the same ones as the fronts, the the signal voltage would be the same.:shrug:
The rear sensors originally are different, but when the cats are working correctly don't the put out the same signal volts as the fronts are supposed to, therefore if you had no cats then if you used the fronts in all positions then would this solve the problem of the mil coming on?

On another note,I was on "Hot Rod's Power Tour" just outside of Jefferson City, Mo on sunday morning. I was following a roush mustang, an sn95 style, we were messing around alittle when we came to a line of cars on a 2-lane road. He got on it hard to pass them, I was behind him and the race was on. He had the jump and was also infront of me but I took him, Beat him BAD. Not even a contest. :burn: :beer:
 

TLush

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The headers took quite a while to install (ALL weekend), the drivers side air tube had to be cut re-bent and rewelded.
One of the welds in the head flange leaks. I have had a lot of problems with the warranty dept at BBK, they wanted me to get it rewelded, they are ceramic coated, what a dumb-***. finally the new header showed up, with a dented ball-flange.:bash:
As far as the sound, it is louder, especially out the back. I think it is quite abit louder, my wife says it is not loud enough though.:burnout:
 

Chris_96cobra

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Damn, so if I were to get some and nothing is wrong with them, about haw many man hours would the install take and what kinda new parts would I need other than new header gaskets?
 

TLush

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The headers came with gaskets, but I went with ford's all metal gaskets (they can't burn out, I wouldn't think). The air tube took alittle time, cause I had to rebend it and shorten it, a muffler or welding shop ought to be able to reweld the pipe back together, I'ts stainless. As for the time about 24 to 30 man hrs, by my self. 2 people would help but it wouldn't cut it in half. They have you swing the steering rod out of the way, just remember to swing it back before everything is tightened up. The dipstick tube also has to be rebent to clear and boltup. None of it is real hard but the instructions didn't mention any of the extra stuff that you deal with. ( a second set would go much faster I think).
 

Chris_96cobra

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Do you think that you picked up as much HP as they claim? If you were looking for HP and a good sound would you recomend the LT's and H pipe or just an O/R H pipe?
 

GR8WHITE

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The O2's in the front are the same as the rears. The difference is the voltage readings they send back to the computer. The exhuast gas temperature, and a little other stuff, is what determines the milivolt readings the EEC gets. Rear readings should be 400 milivolts as a factory setup would give.
 

TLush

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I talked to 2 ford servicemen, the second who is very big into tweeking the newer fords (GT, Cobra, Corbra R, and Lightning).
He said the output Voltage on the rear cats (when working correctly and installed) is a much lower voltage, therefore it won't work. BUT if you get a performance chip, you can have them programed to omit the "cat performance program" therefore eliminating the problem completely.:beer:
I haven't noticed a real HP increase with the LT's, but I plan on SC'ing it this year or next year (money?), then I'll need the extra breathing capability. I doing some upgrades beforehand.
:burnout: :burnout:
 

GR8WHITE

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Yes, a chip might have that capability, depending on which tuner does it. A generic one will not most of the time, only alter the timing and fuel curves mostly. Most chips come in at around $250.00 +, without custom tuning. If you plan on having a chip reprogrammed it will cost almost as much as a new chip sometimes. The MIL Eliminators come in at a much more user friendly price, around $60.00 for the set. All they really do is alter the rear O2 sensor reading that is sent back to the computer. Hey it works though.:)
 

Psychoholic

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--about chips--

I will never, ever, as long as I live (I'm making an very emphatic point here) recommend or stand idly by when someone wants to buy a Hypertech or Superchip.

I have had both, and both were pieces of overpriced junk.

The Hypertech actually made my car run worse.

The superchip didn't do ANYTHING and then I had a hard time getting my money back for it.

If you are going to spend the money for a chip, just go ahead and get one from JMS chip. They send you a chip with 4 or 5 programs already on it, and you pick the one you want. Reburns are cheap too (not to mention Chris Johnson is one of the best mod motor tuners in the world).

I think the chip is $310 delivered (they've done thousands of cars I'm sure, they've probably done one with your same setup and found the most power out of it).

Just my opinion, and I've been wrong before.

Chris (Psychoholic)
 

Psychoholic

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I've got MIL eliminators on my car and my wifes (neither of which have cats) and they work like a champ.

Now if I could only get rid of the dozen other codes my car throws, I'll be happy.

Chris (Psychoholic)
 

GR8WHITE

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Originally posted by TLush
I've tried the Mil's elim's as soon as I hook them up (10 miles) the C.E. comes on, both 02's faulty. :gt:

Did you get the plug in kind like Dallas Mustang sells, or did you get the cut and splice kind. Also if you haven't cleared the codes by removing the negative from the battery, they'll keep poping up.
 

TLush

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I have the plugin type, from Dallas Mustang. I did disconnect the negative and clear the codes, also cleared it with the code reader.:bash:
 

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