1 1/2 hour IRS subframe bushing swap!

Corner-Carver

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But then it took three hours to get the damn bolts in.:mj: LOL

Finally got around to swapping the MM IRS bushings I had on the shelf for almost a year now. Wasn't really that bad of a job it you plan ahead. Get a good electric drill, an 8" C-clamp, 1 1/2" PVC coupler with 3/4"-1 1/2" adapter, a couple of small pieces of flat bar (or large washers), a 3/8" drill bit, and a 1 1/2" wire wheel brush. I just used the tips some of the guys have posted on here.

From jacking up the front end, to installing the last bushing it took less than two hours, that included a couple of breaks and eating lunch. Getting the bolts in by myself... took a little longer. It's not a huge PITA as everybody seemed to make it. You just have to show patience when trying the align the bolts holes... and have a 4lb sledgehammer.;-)

I had to open the rear brackets slightly to get the rear bolts in due to the bushings being wider but my favorite tool (a 4 lb sledgehammer I've affectionaltly call "The Mover") made quick work of closing the gap back.

Now just have to wait on my H&R race springs to show up.:rolling:
 

fubu795

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Congrats man, ill be down to see you in 11 hours, you can do mine also. Just like you, I've had my bushings in my trunk for 6 months now :)
 

BLK_03

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I agree, it's not as bad as everyone says.

Getting the old bushings out and new ones in isn't bad at all. But like you, it took some time/patience to get the 4 IRS bolts back in. I got three of the 4 in, but that last focker wouldn't line up to save my life. I used a come-along. One end on the IRS subframe, the other on the Sport Trac towing hook behind the cobra...:dw:

I did the springs at the same time... Two birds with one stone.
 

Steve Snake Driver

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Too late for you CC, but what I did to make getting the rear of the subframe to slide into place was to ever so slightly bevel the very top edge of the MM bushing with a razor knife. You don't need to trim a lot, just enough to let the very top edge of the bushing slide into the bracket.
 

Corner-Carver

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Originally posted by Steve Snake Driver
Too late for you CC, but what I did to make getting the rear of the subframe to slide into place was to ever so slightly bevel the very top edge of the MM bushing with a razor knife. You don't need to trim a lot, just enough to let the very top edge of the bushing slide into the bracket.

Steve, my problem was that the ENTIRE bushings was tight going up. I could literally lift the rear of the car WITHOUT the bushings going all the way up. I could have shaved 1/16" of an inch off the entire face and it would have probably slipped in very easily, but it needs to be tight. I just don't know if it needed to be that tight. Hell, the rear bolt hanger is a stamped piece anyway, it can't have exact tolerances.;-)
 

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