'14 Brembo Upgrades? or BBK? Anyone?

[Steveespo]

Is it too much of a hassle to go back and forth on ABS modules?

Takes 5 minutes to change, you have to be careful as the wiring harness and the internals of the module are delicate. Take your time and it's no problem.
Steve

 

[Five.Oh]

The factory ABS is fine until you go to full race pads and tires, at which time you might want to think about the race module (if you are dedicating the car to track use only) and several other changes. This is what worked great for us on our cars. We were taught to be extremely frugal with the brakes and to only use them to set the car up to close distance in the corners, so our experiences with pad/rotor replacements are usually much different than others.

You have not really discussed what tires you are using as that makes a real difference in the brake setup. We are in the advanced group in HPDE so we do not have dedicated track cars since our cars spend several days a week on the street so nothing too exotic for us. We either run Yoko AD08R (cold/wet) or Nitto NT01s (dry/hot) so nothing extreme on the rubber side and it determined our braking setups.

This is what works extremely well for us with the OEM Brembo setup -
1. FTBR brake cooling ducts along with some really nice silicone hose Bruce sold us on the side plus Shelby GT ducts we had modified at a local body shop to fit the stock lower grill.
2. FTBR FT9108HD - Front two piece rotors (move the new car to the FT9120HD shortly) that have 10 events on them and still not even close to replacing them. Similar cars in our group have already replaced the stock or Centric rotors two or three times. Based on our driving technique this has been money well spent.
3. FTBR FT9600 - Rear 13" upgrade with two piece floating rotors. This was probably one of the best braking upgrades we did on the car after the cooling ducts, fluid, and lines package, which is required anyway. This really settled down the rear end under hard braking when needed, balanced out the front/rear under normal braking conditions and greatly improved trail braking capabilities. Also replaced the rear calipers as added insurance as both cars had normal miles plus a few events on them.
4. GT500 Brake Booster - Incredible change in brake pedal effort and if nothing else inspires a certain amount of confidence due to much better modulation.
5. SS lines and appropriate brake fluid - In the end we moved to the Castrol SRF after noticing the cost to replace the Motul RBF600/660 after every other event was greater than spending the money up front.
6. Based on tire choice, track layouts in Texas, brake booster and rear rotor upgrades we ended being able to run the Carbotech XP10/XP8 setup without any issues. We tried more aggressive pad combos (DTC70/DTC60; XP12/XP10, etc) but they were not really needed based on our driving technique on the tracks here (MSR-C, MSR-H, TWS, COTA, Hallet, Eagles Canyon) and I think that has also played a big part in the longevity of the rotors.
7. Your mileage will vary based on all these factors. But the minimum I would do is cooling, lines, fluid, power booster and rear rotor upgrade and then determine what is best for you on rotors and pads based on tires, driving technique and budget.

I have chewed through a set of the factory Pirelli P Zero's this year stock size being 255 40 19 but you already knew that. I have a cheap set of track wheels I plan to use next year as they are wider and much lighter they are 18x10 if memory serves.

Where am I finding the race ABS module? same one as Boss 302S/R?

 

[Bingo13]

I have chewed through a set of the factory Pirelli P Zero's this year stock size being 255 40 19 but you already knew that. I have a cheap set of track wheels I plan to use next year as they are wider and much lighter they are 18x10 if memory serves.

Where am I finding the race ABS module? same one as Boss 302S/R?

Ford Racing M-2353-C is the correct module. But it would be the absolute last thing to do in the braking system and honestly if you are in HPDE there is no real reason to go that route, especially if you daily drive the car. If you are turning the car into a track only vehicle for racing purposes, then it will be a nice addition.

 

[Steveespo]

2353-CA is the latest revision. The -C module didn't work with many stock processors. The -CA works but lights up every warning light and message for Advance Track and Brake system.
Steve

 

[Bingo13]

2353-CA is the latest revision. The -C module didn't work with many stock processors. The -CA works but lights up every warning light and message for Advance Track and Brake system.
Steve

Forgot about that, thanks. Weird selection process at Ford though as we had a -C not work on a '11 but was just fine on a '12 that would not work with the -CA. Still go back to the fact that if the car is daily driven and in HPDE, no reason in the world to run the Race Module.

 

[Five.Oh]

Good insight