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The Terminator
Suspension Modifications
14" Ford GT Brembos On - Bled Properly?
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<blockquote data-quote="SnakeBit" data-source="post: 15045752" data-attributes="member: 2522"><p>Cycling the ABS is a good first step. I would then bleed the brakes again. If the ABS shook loose any air, it would still be in your system (maybe not in the ABS module).</p><p></p><p>Another thing to try is to get in a parking lot, go in reverse a few mph, then stab the brake pedal. This adjusts your rear brakes and is the only way to adjust where the brake pedal catches (in a rear drum setup, you adjust the rear brakes to change the pedal, same thing on 4wheel disk, but no spanner bar to turn on the rear brakes, it turns the rear cylinder out).</p><p></p><p>A tip I have used to avoid running the MC dry when bleeding is to use the "water cooler" method. First take a jar and pour in the amount of water equivalent to your brake bottle (ex: 28oz). Take a sharpie or use a piece of tape to mark that level on the jar.</p><p></p><p>With a clean thumb over the end of your brake fluid, turn it upside down in your master cylinder reservoir. Use duct tape to hold it in place so it doesn't tip over.</p><p>Start bleeding your brakes into the marked jar. When the level in the jar hits your mark, it's time to open a new bottle of brake fluid.</p><p></p><p>If your plastic tube from brake caliper to the jar is under water (brake fluid so it cannot suck air back up the tube when you release the brake pedal), you can leave the valve open and just pump (one man operation).</p><p></p><p>Personally, I prefer the Motive Power Bleeder. <a href="http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mvp-0106?seid=srese1&gclid=CK_3_cSVscgCFY0jgQodLfoEog" target="_blank">http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mvp-0106?seid=srese1&gclid=CK_3_cSVscgCFY0jgQodLfoEog</a></p><p>There is a great YouTube video showing all aspects of using the power bleeder, including what to do when you are finished bleeding (hint: you don't just unplug it from the MC while it is under pressure).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SnakeBit, post: 15045752, member: 2522"] Cycling the ABS is a good first step. I would then bleed the brakes again. If the ABS shook loose any air, it would still be in your system (maybe not in the ABS module). Another thing to try is to get in a parking lot, go in reverse a few mph, then stab the brake pedal. This adjusts your rear brakes and is the only way to adjust where the brake pedal catches (in a rear drum setup, you adjust the rear brakes to change the pedal, same thing on 4wheel disk, but no spanner bar to turn on the rear brakes, it turns the rear cylinder out). A tip I have used to avoid running the MC dry when bleeding is to use the "water cooler" method. First take a jar and pour in the amount of water equivalent to your brake bottle (ex: 28oz). Take a sharpie or use a piece of tape to mark that level on the jar. With a clean thumb over the end of your brake fluid, turn it upside down in your master cylinder reservoir. Use duct tape to hold it in place so it doesn't tip over. Start bleeding your brakes into the marked jar. When the level in the jar hits your mark, it's time to open a new bottle of brake fluid. If your plastic tube from brake caliper to the jar is under water (brake fluid so it cannot suck air back up the tube when you release the brake pedal), you can leave the valve open and just pump (one man operation). Personally, I prefer the Motive Power Bleeder. [url]http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mvp-0106?seid=srese1&gclid=CK_3_cSVscgCFY0jgQodLfoEog[/url] There is a great YouTube video showing all aspects of using the power bleeder, including what to do when you are finished bleeding (hint: you don't just unplug it from the MC while it is under pressure). [/QUOTE]
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14" Ford GT Brembos On - Bled Properly?
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