I installed Brembo brakes from a Ford GT and 14" rotors this weekend at a friend's place. They turned out great and definitely have more bite. Now my question is: the top of the pedal is squishy, is that just the amount of fluid it takes to get the pistons out enough for the pads to engage the rotors? Or do I still have air in the system? I bled all four corners starting furthest from the master cylinder and the brakes were basically non-existent and then I realized that I needed to bleed the master cylinder which firmed them up, but the first bit of pedal travel does nothing still. Am I paranoid since I just worked on them? They seem to stop good after that initial sponginess.
14" Ford GT Brembos On - Bled Properly?
- Thread starter WireMesh
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Do you still have the ABS? Did you bleed it if you do?
I do have ABS. I did not bleed it. Is it possible to bleed it? I've read if you get air in the ABS you have to take it to the dealership.
It is likely that your rotors need to be seasoned and the brake pads and rotors bedded in.
How to Season Brake Rotors
http://www.onallcylinders.com/2013/04/18/how-to-season-brake-rotors/
Brake Pad & Rotor Bed-In Procedures
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=85
How to Season Brake Rotors
http://www.onallcylinders.com/2013/04/18/how-to-season-brake-rotors/
Brake Pad & Rotor Bed-In Procedures
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=85
Hmm. How would that affect pedal feel at the top? I have done the Brembo procedure of 30 moderate 60-30 mph stops spaced out.
I've read a couple ways to do it. One is to get the scan tool and have it cycle the pump. The other is to find a slick surface and slam on the brakes. The wheels locking will cause the pump to cycle. I've never done that personally.
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I don't have a scsan tool and the second method... sounds interesting lol. Could have some fun with that.:burnout:
When I did my Baer six piston and eradipeed rotor install, I had the same experience with the spongy brakes. I followed the bedding and seasoning procedures and in a few days, the brakes were firm. I also took the car out on the highway, ran it up to 75 mph and laid into the brakes, bringing it down to 15 mph, quickly. I would drive a few miles and repeat. I did this about 10 times. My brakes give my shoulder harness a real workout.
I guess I'll drive on them a bit and see if the sponginess stops. If I lay into it, they do stop hard, I was just wondering about the maybe inch(?) I have to press the pedal before they start grabbing.
Do you mind enlightening on the install, custom brackets or anything, or were they direct bolt on. I have been thinking about picking up a set of 2015 GT Brembos and am interested in what it would take to get them on.
These are actually off the 2005-2006 Ford GT Supercar. They're monoblock 4 piston calipers. They do require special brackets that used to be made by Vintage Venom but the brackets aren't being made anymore. These are radially mounted whereas the stock calipers are axially mounted.
Oh cool. Yeah, definitely not what I was thinking we were talking about. :beer:
im going through this right now. justr installed baer 6p calipers up front and 2 piece rotors at all corners. bled everything including master cylinder and still a little squishy in the beginning part of the pedal but when they grab they grab hard. i gave it a few good smashes to lock the tires to hopefully get the abs pump to cycle. seems to be getting better, ill give it a few days and see it they tighten up. if not ill bleed again and go from there
great brake set up, should grab hard!
great brake set up, should grab hard!
Cycling the ABS is a good first step. I would then bleed the brakes again. If the ABS shook loose any air, it would still be in your system (maybe not in the ABS module).
Another thing to try is to get in a parking lot, go in reverse a few mph, then stab the brake pedal. This adjusts your rear brakes and is the only way to adjust where the brake pedal catches (in a rear drum setup, you adjust the rear brakes to change the pedal, same thing on 4wheel disk, but no spanner bar to turn on the rear brakes, it turns the rear cylinder out).
A tip I have used to avoid running the MC dry when bleeding is to use the "water cooler" method. First take a jar and pour in the amount of water equivalent to your brake bottle (ex: 28oz). Take a sharpie or use a piece of tape to mark that level on the jar.
With a clean thumb over the end of your brake fluid, turn it upside down in your master cylinder reservoir. Use duct tape to hold it in place so it doesn't tip over.
Start bleeding your brakes into the marked jar. When the level in the jar hits your mark, it's time to open a new bottle of brake fluid.
If your plastic tube from brake caliper to the jar is under water (brake fluid so it cannot suck air back up the tube when you release the brake pedal), you can leave the valve open and just pump (one man operation).
Personally, I prefer the Motive Power Bleeder. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mvp-0106?seid=srese1&gclid=CK_3_cSVscgCFY0jgQodLfoEog
There is a great YouTube video showing all aspects of using the power bleeder, including what to do when you are finished bleeding (hint: you don't just unplug it from the MC while it is under pressure).
Another thing to try is to get in a parking lot, go in reverse a few mph, then stab the brake pedal. This adjusts your rear brakes and is the only way to adjust where the brake pedal catches (in a rear drum setup, you adjust the rear brakes to change the pedal, same thing on 4wheel disk, but no spanner bar to turn on the rear brakes, it turns the rear cylinder out).
A tip I have used to avoid running the MC dry when bleeding is to use the "water cooler" method. First take a jar and pour in the amount of water equivalent to your brake bottle (ex: 28oz). Take a sharpie or use a piece of tape to mark that level on the jar.
With a clean thumb over the end of your brake fluid, turn it upside down in your master cylinder reservoir. Use duct tape to hold it in place so it doesn't tip over.
Start bleeding your brakes into the marked jar. When the level in the jar hits your mark, it's time to open a new bottle of brake fluid.
If your plastic tube from brake caliper to the jar is under water (brake fluid so it cannot suck air back up the tube when you release the brake pedal), you can leave the valve open and just pump (one man operation).
Personally, I prefer the Motive Power Bleeder. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mvp-0106?seid=srese1&gclid=CK_3_cSVscgCFY0jgQodLfoEog
There is a great YouTube video showing all aspects of using the power bleeder, including what to do when you are finished bleeding (hint: you don't just unplug it from the MC while it is under pressure).
I had read someone say this last night about going in reverse and hitting the brakes hard to adjust the rear brakes. I was able to give it a shot today and the dead zone is no longer there. I can feel the brakes starting to grab immediately now! Thank you for the suggestion.
:beer:
I'm trying that tonight. Hopefully I have the same luck as you
Rear disc brakes self adjust everytime the parking brake cable is applied.
Well I tried the reverse and stabbing the pedal. Feels a little better but still a little soft. I also haven't driven the car in about 2 months between waiting on TF wheels and the doing the brakes. I just may be looking for something more? I'll have my wife come out one night so I can try bleeding them again and go from there. But when they grab they grab hard.
I rip the parking brake every time I park it and the brakes never did feel better until the hard reverse stops... I'm not sure.
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