180 Degree Thermostat option

SCGallo2

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I set out with a goal to reduce cylinder head temp (CHT) by 10*, mainly as additional protection against detonation, similar to installing colder spark plugs when increasing boost. My secondary motive was to reduce engine coolant temp (ECT) in an attempt to reduce downstream air temperature to avoid timing being pulled during occasional 1st-4th gear WOT runs down the strip. I purchased a 180* thermostat from Evolution Performance for $35. Turns out they are Motorad brand, made in Germany.

The install is fairly straight forward. I drained the coolant tank using a drill pump attachment purchased from Home Depot, then moved the coolant tank out of the way for better access to the thermostat housing. Next I removed the two thermostat housing bolts and gently pryed it away from the engine. Surprisingly, very little coolant dripped out of the upper radiator hose (literally just drips that I captured with a shop towel). I replaced the OEM 192* thermostat with the new 180* piece and new o-ring I purchased from my local dealer, then reassembled everything and refilled the coolant tank with fresh MC Gold 50/50 pre-mix. Using my SCT X4, I adjusted the radiator fan low speed setting to 196* and high speed setting to 202*.

I data logged during highway cruising at 65mph under the same environmental conditions before and after the installation. Here are the results with the stock radiator:

OEM 192* thermostat - ECT constant 194*, CHT 208-210*

180* thermostat - ECT constant 186*, CHT 198-200*

Mission accomplished :coolman:. I did not data log downstream air temp before the install, so I cannot accurately report the results, but it may be as much as 5* cooler if my memory is correct.

If your application requires any more heat reduction, I would recommend using the Reische 170* thermostat, which most seem to have good results with.

Thermostat and gasket.jpg

OEM t-stat on left / 180* on right
Thermostat top view.jpg

OEM t-stat on left / 180* on right
Thermostat side view.jpg

Thermostat housing.jpg
 

moncho

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Seems like a perfect compromise for those looking to get cooler ECT temps in warmer months but stay warm enough for those that drive in the colder months. I've heard of some complain about the cabin not getting warm enough due to using a 170 degree thermostat? Great write up with pics, thanks for sharing.

Bookmarked....

Cheers,
Ray
 

SCGallo2

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I've heard of some complain about the cabin not getting warm enough due to using a 170 degree thermostat?

I don't have experience with the 170* t-stat, but that thought did cross my mind. It does get down into the single digits up here, though I rarely drive my car in temps below freezing.
 

1 Alibi 2

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Run the 170* stats in both cars, to get the most out of this mod, the mfg. recommends changing the fan high / low settings....( tune )
( new settings are included with the t-stat )
 

SCGallo2

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Run the 170* stats in both cars, to get the most out of this mod, the mfg. recommends changing the fan high / low settings....( tune )
( new settings are included with the t-stat )

Yes, Lund left some tuning options open so that I can tweak them with my handheld programmer for small modifications. I adjusted my cooling fan settings as low as I could, without the cooling fan staying on all the time, to take full advantage of this specific thermostat.

You would be crazy to keep the stock one in there. 170 here

Why? FR/Whipple 725/750HP kits with ProCal tune use the stock t-stat at that power level. Now I have the same airflow, with a better fuel system, and more advanced timing, making 800. Because of the advanced timing, I chose to reduce CHTs to give me more of a buffer to prevent detonation. We can agree that cooler is better.

Glad your goal was achieved. I'm surprised an o-ring did not come with your new t-stat.

Thanks for the tips Michael. There were no surprises.
 
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99SSls1

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Yes, Lund left some tuning options open so that I can tweak them with my handheld programmer for small modifications. I adjusted my cooling fan settings as low as I could, without the cooling fan staying on all the time, to take full advantage of this specific thermostat.



Why? FR/Whipple 725/750HP kits with ProCal tune use the stock t-stat at that power level. Now I have the same airflow, with a better fuel system, and more advanced timing, making 800. Because of the advanced timing, I chose to reduce CHTs to give me more of a buffer to prevent detonation. We can agree that cooler is better.



Thanks for the tips Michael. There were no surprises.

Just because they do doesn't make it any different. We lower your cars overall temps in all conditions. The stock t-stat is to high in my opinion.
Thanks for posting good to read actual numbers.
 

NightRide

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Yeah that's the only real downside with the 170, the few months it's cold here the car really doesn't get that warm from idling. After driving for a minute it starts to heat up pretty good.
 

SCGallo2

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Did some datalogging at the strip yesterday in 65 degree weather and compared my runs to previous track outings (keep in mind my cooling discipline sucks):

OEM 192* thermostat - ECT 198* / CHT 208* @ start of run, 200* / 220* @ 1/4 mile

180* thermostat - ECT 192* / CHT 200* @ start of run, 194* / 216* @ 1/4 mile

Downstream air temp started at 107* and climbed to 140* @ 1/4 mile; no timing pulled with my race tune and 100 octane. My 93 octane street tune starts pulling timing at the top of 3rd through 4th gear, as much as 5 degrees. I don't ice down the blower, nor do I put ice in the heat exchanger reservoir, 50/50 mix of water and anti-freeze only.
 
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nxhappy

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if it's warm enough, you can also run 70% distilled water and 30% coolant. MUCH cooler temps. Also good results with water wetter.
 

RRRR03Cobra

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Great write up. That's something I need to do, especially living down here in the hot south!
 

DUCE400

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Steve,

Great write up! I'll have to swap out my t-stat along with some other cooling mods in my next round of purchases. Though based on where I live I think I can get away with a 170 becuase here in the panhandle of FL it only drops below freezing a handful of times per year. This is my first summer since I did the 2.9 whipple installation and the heat soak has been very discouraging for me. I'm going to purchase a robust combination of mods that will support a street setup. Thanks again for the info!
 

DUCE400

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Hey guys,

After reading Steve's write up I took a hard look at my next round of mods (specifically for cooling) and LP if having a sale this weekend that I want to take advantage of. I wanted to get the
community's opinion because most of you guys have done these mods already and have the experience I don't. My goal/setup is street with the occasional trip to the dyno and strip.

Reische 170 T stat
C&R dual reservoir set (30% increase)
SHELBY AMERICAN DUAL PASS HEAT EXCHANGER W/ DUAL PULLER FANS
LETHAL PERFORMANCE GT500 INTERCOOLER PUMP UPGRADE KIT


let me know what you guys think. thanks in advance!

2012 GT500
2.9 Gen4 Whipple w/ 3.25 pulley
LP BAP
ID1050xi injectors
JLT 123mm CAI
Ford Cobra Jet Twin 65mm TB
CAT Delete (H pipe)
Lund 93oct performance tune
Ford Performance lightweight Aluminum Driveshaft
Barton Billet Shifter
Ford Performance Struts
Ford Street Springs
BMR Adjustable Poly Panhard bar
BMR Adjustable Poly UCA w/ Mount
BMR Poly Diff bushing kit
BMR Adjustable Combo LCA
 

mdoan

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Hey guys,

After reading Steve's write up I took a hard look at my next round of mods (specifically for cooling) and LP if having a sale this weekend that I want to take advantage of. I wanted to get the
community's opinion because most of you guys have done these mods already and have the experience I don't. My goal/setup is street with the occasional trip to the dyno and strip.

Reische 170 T stat
C&R dual reservoir set (30% increase)
SHELBY AMERICAN DUAL PASS HEAT EXCHANGER W/ DUAL PULLER FANS
LETHAL PERFORMANCE GT500 INTERCOOLER PUMP UPGRADE KIT


let me know what you guys think. thanks in advance!

2012 GT500
2.9 Gen4 Whipple w/ 3.25 pulley
LP BAP
ID1050xi injectors
JLT 123mm CAI
Ford Cobra Jet Twin 65mm TB
CAT Delete (H pipe)
Lund 93oct performance tune
Ford Performance lightweight Aluminum Driveshaft
Barton Billet Shifter
Ford Performance Struts
Ford Street Springs
BMR Adjustable Poly Panhard bar
BMR Adjustable Poly UCA w/ Mount
BMR Poly Diff bushing kit
BMR Adjustable Combo LCA

Lethal customer service has gone to sh*t lately; I try to avoid if I can. Lucky for you Ford Performance sells the same kit over $200 cheaper.

HIGH PERFORMANCE INTERCOOLER PUMP KIT- COBRA JET - GT500

Edit: Ford is out of stock until end of July but eBay has them:
Ford Racing supercharger air to water intercooler pump kit 13-14 Shelby GT500 | eBay
 
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