1995 Cobra electric fan relay kit advice

Blu3Blood95

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I recently picked up a 1995 Cobra that has a switch for the fan and I'm looking to put it back on a relay system. I've looked at Painless and a few others, but can't seem to find one that is made for the 94-95s.
Any suggestions on kits or direction that I should go?
The Cobra has been 347 stroked, Comp cam, holley heads, and has a Vortech V2. The switch doesn't take long to get hot. Thank you for the help.
 

01yellercobra

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Are you wanting to go back to stock or do you want to keep the switch and just add a relay? If you just want to add a relay you don't need anything specific or special. You can probably find relays at a parts store. Or you can order them online. I ordered a pack of 40 amp relays a while ago for various projects.
 

01yellercobra

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That should be just a matter of following the wires to where they're tapped into and removing the add on stuff and reconnecting the factory stuff together.
 

venom1997

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Did they bypass the wiring and hook it directly from fan to battery with switch? Or did they tap into the CCRM and just do the grounding mod where you can turn on the high speed fan?


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Blu3Blood95

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Yes, my wiring gets hot also(some dark spots on the wiring where its connected), as well as the switch. At some point I'm going to rewire and put more heavy duty wiring in it. It is running from the fan to the battery like you said with the switch.
 

venom1997

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Yes, my wiring gets hot also(some dark spots on the wiring where its connected), as well as the switch. At some point I'm going to rewire and put more heavy duty wiring in it. It is running from the fan to the battery like you said with the switch.

Yeah I’d say 10gauge wire


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venom1997

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No problem man if you get it wired back to stock and still want manual control let me know I can help you with the high speed fan mod on your 95 it’s simple and retains your factory low and high setting with the computer but still allows you to manually control the high speed


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Cobra Jet

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@Blu3Blood95

This may help you out…

This is my electric fan and controller setup on my 94 Cobra (it’s been on there for 19 years now out of my 21 yr ownership without any issues)…

SPAL dual 11" (puller) fans
Page 7; Publish Online

HAYDEN adjustable thermostatic Fan Controller (Part # 3654)
Go here, page 3:

The SPAL fans draw 37A when they kick on and are running, while the Hayden controller is rated at 50A and is designed to control 2 fans with no issues.

The Hayden 3654 controller that I am using is wired exactly as the schematic or instructions showed that came in the kit. The only deviance is that I chose to have the both fans come on high speed whenever they are kicked on by the controller. It's wired so I do not do any manual intervention at all - meaning if I did not tell anyone that the fans are not stock and there's a controller - it operates just as the factory setup did w/regards to operation.

Key on -
1) fans won't come on until engine reaches X-temp (this can be adjusted on the controller by user). Once controller senses "turn off" temp (engine cooled), the fans will turn off. Same operation as the stock setup would do through CCRM.

2) if HVAC selector is turned to A/C or MAX A/C - the fans will instantaneously turn on and stay on as long as A/C is operating. Once HVAC selector is turned off from A/C operation, fans will shut off as well. Again, same operation as stock setup would do through CCRM.

My CCRM was relocated to exterior passenger inner fender and the harness for the original fan was taped up and secured w/ the CCRM. The only function my CCRM actually has at this point is to operate the fuel pump.

The Hayden controller is hidden up near the front of the rad support and is cooled by incoming air over the unit. The controller is small enough to hide and secure anywhere. As stated above, the Hayden 3654 is capable of controlling (2) fans at once. Don't use a fan controller designed for a single fan on a dual fan setup - eventually the unit or relay will fail.

Controller install was easy as well as the schematic to follow for tapping into the pwr/ground/AC/ignition circuit on vehicle and to whatever fans you're hooking up.

Based on what I remember from years ago, this is how I wired the 3654 controller:
Red: to battery
Black: ground
Orange: to fan (or fans)
Yellow: to IGN ON power source (what I am referring to as the "hot" wire above in my thread)
Green: to A/C (powers fans on instantly once A/C is switched on)
Gray: temp probe (gets inserted into radiator core)

Hayden specifies that for the controller to work with KOEO/KOER, the YELLOW wire must be tapped into an "ignition on" source. When I looked up some fuses for my 94 Cobra, I saw that the power window fuse is both an ignition source and a KOEO/KOER fuse, so I tapped the YELLOW wire into this fuse on the interior fuse block.

——

Now if you’re wanting to go back to factory fan control (CCRM)…. Do as others stated and follow/trace the wires for the CCRM and plug it back in (or repair harness if PO cut anything) as well as finding and using the factory fan harness.

2 notes to be aware of:
- Many folks w/ Ford CCRM’s bypassed them for fan controls because CCRM’s were known to eventually fail, usually rendering the fan OR the fuel pump inoperable. In most cases, the fan relay in the CCRM failed before the fuel pump, therefore folks would just bypass the CCRM due to inop fan and either wire a direct manual control to passenger area by switch OR add a aftermarket controller.

IF you remap the factory CCRM back into play and find the fan doesn’t operate, then you can either replace the CCRM box OR open it up and replace the fan relay. There are tech threads I think on here or on Corral for how to do the DIY fix to the CCRM relays…

- The factory SN95 fan connector to fan motor was known to eventually melt or burn…. Years ago when these cars were daily drivers, Ford did have a TSB out about this issue and the fix. So if you’re still using the factory fan or factory fan harness 30 years later, def check out the connector and it’s wiring for ANY damages - if damaged, do not continue to use for risk of fire and fix/replace the harness and wiring via a pigtail repair/splice kit.
 

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