1997 Cobra project

akurma

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Feb 20, 2017
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Perkasie PA
had a free weekend and decided to work on the car, as usual it fought me along the way. :swordfight: I started with finishing up the exhaust, installed the new o2 sensor, took the old o2 sensors out of the old BBK X, and hooked up the MIL eliminators, topped off brake, power steering and coolant fluids. That was about all that went in without a fight. After i had buttoned that all up I wanted to finally start the car for the first time since I pulled the motor out, just to make sure it would start.

So i put the battery back in, jump inside and crank the key. it fires right up, initially have a grin on my face for about .2 seconds before my father yells "shut it off" repeatedly. i get out and see a massive oil pool on the ground. Turns out the O-ring on the oil filter gave way and shot about 3 qts of fresh clean oil out. I've changed the oil in my 99 GT a dozen times, it's pretty hard to mess up, its possible i didn't tighten it or over tightened the filter. all i know is the O-ring/gasket looks out of round? I should have noticed that when i put it on. Oh well, bought a new filter and topped off the oil.

Fired it up again, no leaks this time! However I noticed it vibrating terribly, not a drivetrain vibration, it felt more like an exhaust issue. At this point the car shut itself off, and would keep turning off after about 5 seconds of idling. tracked it down to two different broken vacuum lines. I slipped some rubber hose over the leak to fix it.


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Now with the vacuum leak fixed, I put the car back in the air looking for what part of the exhaust it hitting causing the vibration. Turns out its hitting all over the damn place :facepalm: the first place i notice was the passenger side muffler is hitting the frame rail, okay no big deal just unbolt it from the H-pipe twist it so it isn't and bolt it up right? nope. I can't twist it because it is ALSO hitting on the passenger side rear upper control arm. at this point i realize the entire passenger side cat back is crooked for whatever reason, even though it fit before with the long tubes and BBK X-pipe. But wait there's more! the driver side H-pipe is hitting the trans crossmember. I tried unbolting it from the header moving it and bolting it back up, which did help a bit but not enough. it seems the crossmember is angled? and its hitting where it turns down. I'm thinking someone modified the cat back to work with the long tubes and shorty X-pipe and now that it has a normal midpipe it doesn't fit properly. Not exactly sure what im going to do about this. i really don't want to have to buy a new catback. The catback is a Flowmaster American Thunder for those wondering, or at least that what it seems to be. I would just put dumps on the back of the mufflers and run it like that but i can't because it wont pass PA state inspection.

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At this point i'm beyond frustrated, when I notice a small pool of the fresh coolant i had just poured into the system forming on the floor. its leaking from somewhere against the passenger side firewall and cylinder head. I lower the car and find one of the heater core hoses has a small hole in it. Must have gotten snagged on something when the motor went back in.

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The only joy i got out of working on the car was seeing the 1967 fastback that came in for paint get picked up by its owner. Some of you might remember the car from a few posts back. the car came out beautifully! pictures don't do it justice.

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akurma

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Feb 20, 2017
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Perkasie PA
Got the Pypes pipe-bomb catback delivered earlier this week. The box it was shipped in was absolutely mangled, but surprisingly nothing was damaged or missing! so i tackled that yesterday. I couldn't manage to get the Flowmaster catback off without cutting it unfortunately as the connections where the tail pipes meat the mufflers were so corroded even with a torch and hammer they wouldn't budge. (If anyone wants to make an offer on the flowmaster system PM me) Once that was out of the way i went to work installing the Pypes system, super easy install but was a little odd that the mufflers weren't welded to the pipes going to the midpipe like most systems but it works. Best of all it actually fits unlike the flowmaster unit! I still have to align the exhaust tips but overall pretty impressed with the system for being one of the cheapest stainless steel ones on the market for these cars. I personally like the look and style of the exhaust tips on the flowmaster unit better but I digress.

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Once that the cat back was done i made my way to the front and fixed that coolant leak that was against the passenger side firewall and the back of the passenger side head. By far the most aggravating spot to work on because of the limited space. after fighting with it for a while and removing the charcoal canister ( at least that's what i think it was) for the AC to give myself more room, i finally got the old hose off and slipped on the new Gates hose. Looking back I wonder if this leak is why i found two gallons of coolant in the trunk when i bought it :confused:

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By this point the car was "done" all i had to do was top off the fluids, and bleed the brakes. So i wanted to start it up and get it out moving under it own power the the first time in months to let it idle and make sure no leaks or anything popped up. Fired it up and drove it out of the shop and let it idle for a good 20 minutes. It still has an exhaust leak as i am having a hell of a time finding the passenger side front EGR bung (first picture below) If anyone knows where i can order or even knows the correct thread please let me know. it is not the same as a 99 GT. after about 20 minutes nothing was leaking, the car spontaneously combust or anything lol, so i decided i wanted to take it for a spin to see if all my hard work had paid of. It did not. I instantly noticed horrible vibrations from about 1000-3000 RPMS. I didn't take it past 3000 rpms. Doesn't matter if it is in gear or neutral, although there are noticeably less vibrations in neutral and almost none when its at idle. Now I know there is a break in period for new clutch kit, but does the break in period usual have really bad vibrations? I drove it about 3 miles so far. This was also my first clutch install, it was stupid easy to install but maybe I overlooked something? maybe the flywheel was resurfaced incorrectly? could the driveshaft be out of balance? stretched clutch cable? anyone have any ideas?

Also enjoy the short walk around video of it a idle for the first time since i took the motor out, keep in mind it has the exhaust leak from that EGR bung that is missing.

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I messed with the cobra again last weekend, I am still having trouble finding the correct thread of the passenger side exhaust header EGR bung pictured below. Does anyone have any ideas on where i can find it or even know the correct thread?! i'm not sure if having this big of an exhaust leak could cause my vibration issue as i'm sure the engine is off from the leak.

Anyways I drove it around some more and noticed the clutch seems to feel strange, compared to my 99 GT it feels "numb?" I guess thats what i'm trying to describe. Again the clutch is a brand new FRPP kit, I know there is a break in period for clutch kits, however i'm afraid to drive it much further until i figure out the vibration issue as i don't want to risk damaging the brand new clutch.

I took some video of the vibration im trying to track down. The first video is at idle, it doesn't seem to be much more than my 99GT, in fact you can barely feel any vibrations when its at idle, however the engine seems to move more than it should? The second video is driving around in 2nd gear at around 20mph. in the second video you can see the shifter & steering wheel shaking. HOWEVER the vibration seems less harsh compared to the first time i drove it, which leads me to think the new motor and trans mounts need to break in??


 

Digthemup

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Dude, I wish you were closer to me, I let you make some extra scratch, and work on my cars, specially my race car. Unbelievable commitment, which is rare for ppl selling a car these days.
BTW, if you ever plan on switching out that BBK CIA let me know. Like to see it on my Bondurant.;)
 

32icon321

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As far as finding the EGR bung...
I have always had good luck messaging large mustang used parts dealers on eBay and asking they if they have this or that. They almost always comes through.

May have missed it but did you mention if the vibration started after your work or was it happening before too?

Drivetrain vibrations can be a real pain sometimes. I would check the following in order of simplicity:
1) Check drive shaft bolts
2) Check U joints( based on everything else on the car if they haven’t been replaced yet, probably overdue)
3) Smell the tranny fluid. Unlikely anything wrong there but always good to check. If it smells burnt you got a problem
4) Pull the driveshaft and check tailshaft play
5) Pull the tranny back out and go back over everything

I’ve gotten so frustrated trying to track one down once I gave up and just waited for something to break.

Awesome project by the way. Been itching to do a SN-95 like this.



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ZD302GT

Zach
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What happened to the male fitting that used to be in the exhaust manifold? If you never had one maybe try looking for a replacement manifold to steal the fitting off of. Then you can have the end of that welded up or have a cap built for it.

Or take the manifold off the car and have that hole welded up.
 

akurma

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Perkasie PA
It's been a while since my last update, haven't done much with the cobra as i've been swamped with work. However i was able to track down that EGR bung i was searching for! I took a trip to my local ford dealership and went to the parts department, they gave me a diagram of the exhaust system and told me to pinpoint the item i was looking for. They searched in their computer system for the part number(pictured below for others.) They were only able to find one dealership in Kansas that had it in stock and it has been on the shelf since 2008! So with that piece of the puzzle solved I installed the part and finally finished the EGR system! I also believe i found the cause of my vibration issue.When i installed the FRPP clutch kit it appears I forgot to install the dowel pins.. rookie mistake i know but in my defense the clutch i took out didn't have dowel pins! So now i get to drop the trans again :nopity:

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May have missed it but did you mention if the vibration started after your work or was it happening before too?

Drivetrain vibrations can be a real pain sometimes. I would check the following in order of simplicity:
1) Check drive shaft bolts
2) Check U joints( based on everything else on the car if they haven’t been replaced yet, probably overdue)
3) Smell the tranny fluid. Unlikely anything wrong there but always good to check. If it smells burnt you got a problem
4) Pull the driveshaft and check tailshaft play
5) Pull the tranny back out and go back over everything

I’ve gotten so frustrated trying to track one down once I gave up and just waited for something to break.

Awesome project by the way. Been itching to do a SN-95 like this.

I think i found the cause of my vibration issue, looks like i missed installing the dowel pins when i did the clutch, but ill go over your list before i drop the trans again!

What happened to the male fitting that used to be in the exhaust manifold? If you never had one maybe try looking for a replacement manifold to steal the fitting off of. Then you can have the end of that welded up or have a cap built for it.

Or take the manifold off the car and have that hole welded up.

If you look back the car originally had BBK chrome long tubes on it when i bought it. i was going to replace them with another set of long tubes, but BBK's were backordered for months. I picked up a set of used stock manifold off of ebay and they seller conveniently angled the pictures to not show this bung was missing. But read above i was able to find an OEM bung!
 
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akurma

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Been a while since i worked or even looked at the cobra, kinda lost motivation with it:sorry But after going to the American Muscle 2018 show i found the urge to finish what I started. Last weekend I pulled the trans back out to install the 3 dowel pins that I didn't know/forgot I needed to install since the clutch I took out didn't have them to begin with. However while taking the trans out i noticed that my clutch fork is very loose and kept falling off the pivot stud? Once the trans was out and on the ground I noticed that the pivot stud is worn and the prongs on the clutch fork are bent and weak. Probably should have noticed this before but I digress. Ordered a new clutch for and pivot stud and plan on installing them and reinstalling the trans tomorrow.

What are the odds that the clutch fork falling off the pivot stud and hanging loose would cause the vibration issue? I assume so, but just to be safe im going to install the dowel pins as well. The only video i could find on how to install dowel pins is a video LMR made for a clutch replacement in a foxbody so i assume it's the same?


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Got the Pivot stud and clutch fork done today. The replacement clutch fork is much nicer than whatever I took out. Also put those pesky little dowel pins in place and torqued everything back to spec. tomorrow i'll be putting the trans back in place and will see if these changes made the vibration go away :dunno

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scottydsntknow

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Edit, thought you meant the actual EGR bung, those are the air injection bungs AFIAK. All that shit can get deleted, to retain the EGR all you really need is the actual EGR tube and valve. And for 96-98 Cobras I'd even go ahead and delete the EGR completely as well as the PCV and run a catch can because of how crudded up the secondary ports can get.

I got a set of these manifolds for free to put in my 2000 4V swap and since those don't even have that air injection on the 2V or 4V and I would have deleted it anyway I just took it to a welder who could do cast iron and had them filled.

As far as those dowel pins... that is weird most flywheels should come with them unless you got a Coyote flywheel which would have either the wrong dowel pins or none at all. They just pop out with a punch and tap in with a hammer. But I'm sure you figured that out already lol.

How do you like that exhaust btw? Good sound with not a lot of drone or what?
 
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