1999 Mustang GT's

[AdamD]

once i buy the car more im going to drive it stock.then i will add on to it, and save aside some money for my gas, money to go out to the movies or buy dinner for the girlfriend, and so on and so on. the project that this is will probobly take a long time depending on what job and hours im doing. My dad is really into cars and would liek to help me out, but i would like to work and pay for it all, he can help me install parts and stuff but i will be paying for it all.

in what order should i get the stuff?

 

[poopnut2]

You plan on installing everything yourself? Let's see, here's my predictions on cost.

1. 2001 mustang gt ($10,000 or so)
2.gears. probobly 3.73's ($500 installed)
3. cold air intake ($125)
4. gt40 heads (Not available for 4.6's, no price)
5. pro 5.0 shifter ($100 at least)
6. vortech supercharger ($5400 at least, installed)
7. vortech intercooler (look at #6)
8. pulleys.hmm i dont know which kind.ideas? ($150 at least, installed)
9. exhaust. still dont know which kind to get.probobly bassani. ($800 at least installed, and that's just the catback)
10. diablo racing chip (Not sure, but I'll guess $250 at least burnt and installed)
11. saleen wheels and tires(can wait)
12. headers ($500 at least, installed, 4.6 header installation is expensive because it's not easy)

Ok, that all comes out to at least $17,825, and that doesn't incluse a mid pipe which will run you another $200, a tune, I'm sure the blower kit doesn't come with a mass air meter($200) and fuel injectors ($300+installation). Now, you think a car will be able to hold that power for long before stuff starts to break? Like your rear-end, axles, need to strengthen your chassis, your motors internals, etc. And of course none of that power will reach the ground without a LOT of suspension work which will be another $1000 plus. So we're looking at $20,000 plus, I guess I overshot it a tad.

I'm not trying to ruin your dreams or anything, but like I said, foxbody with juice will be just as fast, affordable, and you can actually work on it yourself.

 

[AdamD]

yeah i am looking at a fox body instead.1991-1991 mustang gt's look pretty cool, and the 93 cobra is a beast.my dad and i want to build it up and stuff. the interior of the 93's are kinda creepy, especially the dash and steering wheel, any companies make some nice looking interior things?

 

[DJT03GT]

Dude go with a fox body, i just turned 20 and i am on my second mustang. Once you start moddin you wont want to stop. A fox body you can work the motor a lot cheaper cuz theres a bigger selection of parts and theres plenty of fast 5.0s, supercharged and N/A. Im forced to sell my GT cuz payin 470 a month plus buyin parts is gettin old quick. Now i gotta buy a 03 Cobra to cure all!

 

[poopnut2]

In my opinion, which is worth nothing, 89' is the best year to get. No airbag, you get the mass air setup, 140mph speedo, forged pistons, and for some reason, 87-89's S/D or Mass Air, seem to put out a little more power. An 87-89 coupe 5-speed will hang with a 93' cobra no problem.

A fox-body is definately the way to go though. Even without nitrous you can be at 300 to the wheels for a little over $1000 if you look for good deals.

 

[AdamD]

Where can i find good deals on forged pistons for 93 cobra's or mustrang gts(dont know which year yet).

i dont really want to run nitrous just becuase i think of it as a way of cheating, but you never know.

 

[AdamD]

I dont know

I absolutely love the looks of the 2000+ mustang gt's. I can find alot of them for under 12k that are manual's and have the v8 in em.Insurance is way higher on the 91-91gt then a 2001gt. they have been my dream car since i was like 12 and I have been saving for it constantely.fox bodies are ok but i dont think they look as nice as the 2000+ gt.

 

[poopnut2]

I don't know where you figure that insurance on a fox body is more then a 99+. Unless you pay cash you will HAVE to get full-coverage which will cost you, if you're on your parents policy well over $200 a month. Liability on my fox was about $115. Full coverage is $175. And that's with statefarm, which isn't cheap.

Don't tell the guys running 7's and 8's in the 1/4 mile that nitrous is cheating or they'll get mad.

Hypereutectic pistons aren't all THAT bad. You can easily run a 150 shot, or 9 lbs of boost with no problems. Just won't last AS long as forged. I wouldn't worry about pistons until you build your block all the way up or stroke it. Then you'll have to buy new pistons anyways. Just remember when buying your pistons, if you still want the blower, get low compression pistons.

 

[A2V2NV]

Just curious, I thought '90 was the first year for the MAS in the 5.0???

joe

 

[A2V2NV]

If I may.....

5.0's are sweet, but their also getting OLD, i.e. alot of small stuff is going to be pretty well worn out, the majority of 'em have had HARD lives. So, just be prepared to rebuild the front suspension, the brakes, and then at least a new clutch kit, new u-jonts, etc. I guess my point is that the will be hidden costs with an older car.

If you don't mind, I'll recommend a '96-'98 GT. Because they were underpowered they were generally not beaten on very much, and they can also be picked up cheap, (look on Ebay!).
Then you do a PI swap, meaning you put PI or Power Improved heads and intake manifold from a '99 up 2V GT. When this swap is done on the earlier motors, they end up with higher compression as well. then do this:
1. Diablo Chip
2. BBK cold air kit
3. Underdrive Pulleys
4. catted X pipe and cat back exhaust
5. 3.73 gears if 5-speed; 4.10's if Automatic
6. 75hp dry nitrous kit from a company like ZEX

Go to karkraft.com and pick up a set of dark charcoal bullet wheels and tires new for about 600 bucks!

Keep us updated!! Good Luck!!

just my .02 worth!!

Joe

 

[poopnut2]

First of all, 88' was the first year of mass air. That was in california, then 89' in the rest of the country. There will always be hidden costs with buying ANY new car. That's why you know what to look for when buying used. To say 4.6's aren't beat up is absurd. The majority of 4.6's I drive are ragged to crap. Especially the 96-98's which always seem to have 100K+ miles.

If you get a 4.6, get a 4V. All you'll be doing with a 2V 4.6 is wondering why your mods aren't giving you any more power.

I'm not completely bias against the 4.6's, it's just that the 2V modulars don't impress me at all.

 

[GR8WHITE]

Originally posted by poopnut2
First of all, 88' was the first year of mass air. That was in california, then 89' in the rest of the country. There will always be hidden costs with buying ANY new car. That's why you know what to look for when buying used. To say 4.6's aren't beat up is absurd. The majority of 4.6's I drive are ragged to crap. Especially the 96-98's which always seem to have 100K+ miles.

If you get a 4.6, get a 4V. All you'll be doing with a 2V 4.6 is wondering why your mods aren't giving you any more power.

I'm not completely bias against the 4.6's, it's just that the 2V modulars don't impress me at all.

I know what you mean about the mileage and any older car having hidden costs. I don't agree with the 2V's not being impressive. My 2001 N/A 2V GT is quicker than my 97 SC'd Cobra. I'd call that pretty impressive. It's just the 96-98 2V cars didn't get real good heads. They do have the SVO head option, which is actually a better head than the PI head. It's just much more expensive. In any case, they are a head swap away from being better off. Honestly, the stock E7TE heads on the 5.0's weren't great either. They just have a really good aftermarket selection. If the 4.6 had 5 companies that made heads for us, where do you think we'd be? I went 13.60's in stock trim.:beer:

 

[AdamD]

Yeah. I am most likely getting a 1990-1993 Mustang GT and driving it as is, then modifying it with gears, underdrive pulleys, cai,and pro 5.0 shifter. Get used to the power and good at driving a manual, then move straight to exhaust, headers, and supercharger+intercooler.

 

[poopnut2]

Originally posted by GR8WHITE
They just have a really good aftermarket selection. If the 4.6 had 5 companies that made heads for us, where do you think we'd be? I went 13.60's in stock trim.:beer:

That's the thing. They don't have a good aftermarket. And now ford has ditched the 2V modular after less then a decade of production. I'm sure eventually someone will come out with a 2V head but until you have lots of companies making them, the price will be outrageous just like the SVO heads are. The most power I've seen out of a N/A 2V modular is about 315hp/tq to the wheels. While not bad, I don't see how it could beat a blown 4V. Which with even 6psi should be at at least the power numbers mentioned above.

To get that 315hp/tq it took, full exhaust, stage 2 ported and polished heads, ported bullit intake, 70mm throttle body, custom grind blower cams, pulleys, chip, cold air, injectors and a new mass air. That's probably close to $4000 if not more. Everything was installed by the guy himself so that probably saved him another couple of grand. I'm putting heads, cam, intake, throttle body, injectors, and mass air in mine and I'll probably be seeing those same numbers. Difference is, all my stuff cost around $16-1700 and install for everything is costing me $200.:rockon: I wish it wasn't my only car so I could try and do everything for the first time myself.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that a fox-body is the PERFECT starter car which is more then capable then making WAY more power then a 2V mod motor. It's easier to work on, everything is cheaper, and more people can give advice on working on them.

 

[SHOspazz92]

id go with a 85 GT, Carbourated, and Forged Pistons