2.65 vmp vs gen 3 2.9 whipple
- Thread starter 1fast4v
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Myself personally, I don't like that you have to modify the crossover tube for the 2.65.
Also according to the preliminary numbers I saw... it only made ~40whp more than a 2.3tvs at the same boost. (22psi , e85)
IMO 2.3tvs > 2.3whipple
2.9 whipple > 2.3/2.65 tvs
Also according to the preliminary numbers I saw... it only made ~40whp more than a 2.3tvs at the same boost. (22psi , e85)
IMO 2.3tvs > 2.3whipple
2.9 whipple > 2.3/2.65 tvs
That's why I tell people, if a 2.3 tvs or a 2.9 whipple is still not enough for you, then go turbo. Everyone gets excited over the next new blower. You buy and sell and next thing you know, you are on your 5th blower swap to only be at the same hp levels. I was guilty as well until my tuner told explained to me what I was doing. That is wny no more blower swaps for me. Turbo will be my next mod when I am ready to do so.
But we need more time with the new tvs. see track times as well. so its still too new to decide I think.
But we need more time with the new tvs. see track times as well. so its still too new to decide I think.
Sounds about spot on.
The real question is how much power does OP want?
Been on this site for 10 years. Don't post much but I observe Most all the guys that buy a big blower run low boost and come on here complaining.
At only 22psi the 2.3tvs is almost done and the larger 2650 blower is just starting to come online. The test should be done at 25psi to see which blower is doing better. The bigger blowers will shine only up at the higher 24psi+ boost levels most terminator guys never want to run.
I will be swapping to the TVS2650 soon and I won't be running chicken shit boost levels either.
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I've been debating this as well. I'm wanting to run around 21psi but I'm afraid that's too much for a 2.3 but not enough for the 2.65 or 2.9.
What are your other mods?
Right now the engine is all stock. However, I have MAC longtubes, will be running a return fuel system with probably ID1000 injectors. SCT2600, JLT Cold air, 26 spline input and McCleod RXT, FTBR IRS Bushing and reinforced Diff cover. That's all I can think of now.
I'm planning on running e85 around 21psi and hoping for over 700hp. I don't like the idea of running a lower pulley so I'm wanting to stay away from that.
im making 21-22 on my 2.3 tvs and it shines.
Who is feeding you with lie's? The 2.3 tvs sweet spot is 20-22psi, 21-23* timing, and e85. This has been known since the gen 1 came out.
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Don't you have to run a lower to get to that psi though without having belt slip?
There’s ways around it now. Rpm belts, whipple sliding/adj tensioners (which applies the belt wrap on the proper side) and if it gets real, carbonite coatings on the grooved pulleys. I ran a 4lb lower with a 3” upper with zero problems. Made 22psi and over 700hp. Dubs can maybe post a pic of his setup showing you the slider and coating I’m mentioning.
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Not necessarily. I've been trying to avoid running a lower. Like mentioned, I have a few things that have helped me run a 2.6 upper only. But it comes with a cost, a lot of belt dust. That's because of the carbinite coated pulley. It's like sandpaper in the pulley grooves. I like a clean engine, so I pretty much do a quick wipe down after every cruise. The gatorback belts create more dust.
I hit 21 lbs of boost and I have headers. Sometimes in cooler weather I'll see 22. Sometimes in warmer weather I'll only see 20. But this isn't belt slip.
Below is a couple pictures. I have a thump racing tensioner, carbinite coated pulley, and the whipple adjustable pulley idler.
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I've been running lowers on my two terminators since 2007 no issues. Don't get taken by internet myth's often repeated like lower pulley causing crank issues. Find a good tuner and listen to their advise before buying parts.
The lower with cranks have been a problem on big blowers, not 2.3's. That's not my reasoning for wanting to keep the factory caged lower.
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This is not difficult to understand......many people will consider 700 wheel on E85 a good place to stop. That is the sweet spot for the 2.3 blower, and a lot of other factory related components on these cars. Go for 750 wheel + with the larger blowers and a whole multitude of other issues can and will pop up. The heads can lift, the lower can fail (sorry....but it's documented 2.3 and smaller blower failure rates are much lower than bumping up to the larger blowers and going 24+ psi), the factory T56 lives much longer at 700 wheel, aftermarket clutches hold 700 wheel much longer than pushing for more, etc, etc, etc
If you want more, then good for you and have fun going for it. We love to read these threads. But no shame in choosing to stay with a 2.3 at 700 wheel. It's a proven recipe and many will consider it a ton of fun for the long term. At the 700 wheel point.....whats another 50? 75? You'd be better off addressing the transmision at that point and just go auto. 750+ wheel isn't very useful with a stick. An auto conversion would be better.
If you want more, then good for you and have fun going for it. We love to read these threads. But no shame in choosing to stay with a 2.3 at 700 wheel. It's a proven recipe and many will consider it a ton of fun for the long term. At the 700 wheel point.....whats another 50? 75? You'd be better off addressing the transmision at that point and just go auto. 750+ wheel isn't very useful with a stick. An auto conversion would be better.
Do the lower pulley now. If you want higher boost a small upper only isn’t the way. The 2.3 doesn’t make the crank snapping tq big blowers make. I wanted to stay stock caged lower as well.... now I’m looking for a metco lower....
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I'd also consider a lower if I could find a modified stock caged lower. I also don't feel like putting a bigger pulley on my Nations alternator.
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Where did you get the Whipple Adjustable Idler I looked but couldn't find one. Also where did you get the pulley carbinite coated. I think I'd rather do this than a lower. I just like the idea of having a caged lower.
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