2.80 PULLEY INTSALLED - NOW WHICH INTAKE FILTER SYSTEM

Fast03Cobra

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I did the pulley swap. I am using the stock air box, silencer removed, and the E-0945 K&N. The car is obviously choked now in the 5000+ RPM range.

I think I read someone say you take your HP (I am about 500 at the engine, 440 at the rear) 500 and multiply it by 1.6 to get your CFM flow rate.

That puts me at around 800 CFM.


So far I have looked at:

-UPR
-Densecharger
-Amazon
-PHP (nothing there)
-JDM


The problem is that I can not figure out the flow rate on ANY of them. The UPR does the best job of selling themselves. But the Densecharger is THE SAME THING only $50 cheaper and made of carbon fiber.

I think I would go with Denscharger but becuase I am running 500 HP and around 13psi with the 2.80 pulley, I need to be more informed as to which system is best.


Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.


I want to get the best flow rate and the coldest charge.
 

Lobo

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I have just about the same set-up as you, PLUS a MAC CAI, but I have the same problem. The mods add between 70-90 hp from 1000 - 5250 RPM, after which it narrows and almost touches the 'before' graph.

I think our problem is that we still have the stock exhaust system. There's enough air coming in, but the engine just can't exhale properly at high RPM.

That's my 2c since all others who did pulley, chip and exhaust are up to about 460 rwhp, some even higher. And I started at 400 rwhp STOCK, so it's not like it's a lemon or something. Still wound up at only 435 peak rwhp after the mods.

As for the MAC CAI, I'm still happy with it. It looks great, costs only $150 and works. You wouldn't believe how loud that blower is now. I guess I'm the only one with the MAC set-up though.

It'll be able to do it's job as soon as I get that 3" exhaust. :)

Dex

PS: OOPS! Just saw you DID the exhaust... nm then and just get the MAC CAI. :D
 
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1Yellow03

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Can one of you tell me if you have notice any problems with
having the 2.80 pulley. I want to have one on my car with
a chip. This is a big step to the dark side of the force. I can
do the cai system. My wife will not let me do the pipes!!!!
Once the pulley go's on there go's with it the 3 year "w" and
no turning back. (I am losing sleep over this)

thanks for your help! (no mods yet, car is 3 weeks old)
 

FlashSVT

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BEST ET MODDED:

60' - 1.89
1/8 - 7.8
1/4 - 12.0
MPH - 118
70F
Stock F1's
-------------------
BEST DYNO RUN (SAE) w/ MODS

440 RWHP
460 RWTQ
@ 94 F

Was this done BEFORE the pulley swap????
 

JP DEMOLET

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The Densecharger isn't the same thing as the UPR.

The UPR tube is 87mm i.d..
The DC tube is 100mm i.d.

The UPR isn't tunable
The DC offers the 2 distinct tuning lengths.

The most popular filter position on all my systems has been unanimously the "down" position.

Granted, it's a harder installation with the bigger system diameter and "down" filter placement but the colder, higher volume of airflow is what's most important.

90mm meter @ 87mm airflow, non tunable, and heat conductive.

or

90mm meter @ 100mm airflow, tunable, and non heat conductive.

I'll find out this weekend the system results and the larger filter question.

The current base system is for stock application.
With the "down" filter position I'll have additional larger K&N upgrades available when ordering for more CFM requirements but it's going to be "surgical installation required" with the larger K&Ns. I'll see what Dr. Jamie Myer finds concerning the larger 9" filter installation.
 
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toofast4u

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Originally posted by JP DEMOLET

The UPR tube is 87mm i.d..
The DC tube is 100mm i.d.

90mm meter @ 87mm airflow, non tunable, and heat conductive.
or

90mm meter @ 100mm airflow, tunable, and non heat conductive.

UPR states there tube is 4" in diameter and tubing is usually defined as inner-diameter that would mean that it is technically 101,600 mm i.d. diameter. Also the "big mouth filter" that UPR uses looks bigger then the densecharger as well as has a cavity filter on the top which increases filter surface area. I also take the heat conductive argument as irrelevant due to the pure volume and speed of the air traveling through the tube it would have to be extremely hot to change the temp of the airflow fractions of a degree. So it basically comes down to whether or not you want a tunable system.
 

mm49

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JLP ram air works super and price is great. I went from a Lightning filter to this setup and my Intake temps dropped 30-40 degrees. Before I had no shield around the Cone Filter.

JL
 

JP DEMOLET

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The inside diameter of the UPR is 3 1/2" or 87mm as QUOTED TO ME FROM CALLING THEM FOR THE SPECS!!!!

How much benefit will an open end filter have with the open end facing the fender metal?

We all know the proven benefits of a K&N!

Call UPR yourself before stating an incorrect inside diameter.


Why settle for less than optimal airflow to the meter?


You can argue the point of heat conductivity but can't change the laws of physics:
metal is a conductor, which unprotected will condensate and corrode.

Plastic is an insulator, which won't corrode.


Intake temp. will increase with seasonal changes and motor heat. Another mod 101 fact!

If a phenolic spacer makes a difference that far down the intake tract then why have any metal in the MAF system if there is a choice?


A cooler denser intake charge produces more power, no system maintenance is required (excluding filter), and the weight of the system is lighter with the plastic. A 1/4" thick metal pipe weighs far more than a 1/4" thick cellular plastic pipe with far less insulative properties. THEN ADD THE 100MM AIRFLOW!

The stock factory 80mm meter has a 92mm diameter face opening. I consider 87mm restrictive for even the 80mm meter!
 
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FastCobra

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The D.C and UPR are both nice system. I wish someone would somehow gather all these CAI's together and dyno them all at once-same car and all, and then we would know for sure which one put the power down!!
 

toofast4u

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Originally posted by JP DEMOLET
The inside diameter of the UPR is 3 1/2" or 87mm as QUOTED TO ME FROM CALLING THEM FOR THE SPECS!!!!

How much benefit will an open end filter have with the open end facing the fender metal?

We all know the proven benefits of a K&N!

Call UPR yourself before stating an incorrect inside diameter.


Why settle for less than optimal airflow to the meter?


You can argue the point of heat conductivity but can't change the laws of physics:
metal is a conductor, which unprotected will condensate and corrode.

Plastic is an insulator, which won't corrode.


Intake temp. will increase with seasonal changes and motor heat. Another mod 101 fact!

If a phenolic spacer makes a difference that far down the intake tract then why have any metal in the MAF system if there is a choice?

Don't scream at me or I will respond accordingly. You have posted what 16 times here all of them selling stuff.

I just called and you are correct the I.D is 3.5" or 88.89 mm. Everybody does know the proven benefits of the K&N filter especially how friendly it is with the MAF, the oil used on the filter is not MAF friendly and actually screws up the MAF element if you don't clean it regularly. Intake temp will increase with seasonal changes and motor heat that is why we are putting our filters in the fender or isolating them from the engine bay. I think you are confusing the purpose of a phenolic spacer do you think a 1" of phenolic between the upper and lower intake is going to make a squat of difference to air temperature as it flows by. No, what it does do is reducing the rate of heat transfer from the lower to the upper intake so that the upper stays cooler and that decreases the air temperature the second benefit from a phenolic spacer is it increases the runner length and horsepower gains are marginal on the road, most gain seen for dyno runs and quarter mile.
 
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Jim Vaccaro

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There is a negative side also to both these CAI's.
That is putting the filter further away from the meter and TB.
You can argue these different systems forever.
I prefer to test them.

Jim V.
 

toofast4u

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Originally posted by Jim Vaccaro
There is a negative side also to both these CAI's.
That is putting the filter further away from the meter and TB.
You can argue these different systems forever.
I prefer to test them.

Jim V.

I agree. But why are you the one with all the parts to test?:lol:
 

JP DEMOLET

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That's being done this weekend.

I'm hoping that all the variables particular to a "real world" CAI test will be conducted.

The dyno will show baseline comparisons inside the dyno room, but I feel that "real world" variables also come into play:

1. On 95 degree day which system remains the coolest, best insulative?

2. Will there be possible corrosion concerns in the future?

3. What system cools the quickest with airflow after excessive heat exposure (summer traffic).

4. What system offers further filter sizing upgrades possible with future mods. An "up" only system would obviously restrict this. Will the manufacturer offer "near cost" filter options as I do?

5. What track differences are realized and do you have to ice down the system between runs due to material makeup?

6. With many other filter choices now available will the "water exposure" question be handled better by the proven K&Ns or the other brands. Especially with regard to filter location/exposure.

7. Will future meter/TB mods obsolete the system due to inneficient diameters for bigger meters and TBs?


These are the variables I consider mandatory testing for a TRUE COLD AIR INDUCTION SYSTEM.
 
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gchronis

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Hey JP,

I was considering of getting the UPR myself, but I'm looking into the DC now as well. Do you have any dyno numbers on this CAI alone? Other than UPR's claims about theirs, I've seen a couple of other people on here that claim a 15-20hp rwhp gain just from the CAI. From your experience, do you think DC can do better than that?

thanks, g.
 

JP DEMOLET

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I checked with Dr. Jamie yesterday to see if he had the results yet. They're doing the whole deal this weekend.

I'm anxious to see the different filter size performances and the installation problems involved.

I'll have the bigger K&Ns available as customers mod up! Including X-Streams. All past customers receive upgrades at or near cost as our appreciation for their business.

I don't know if he'll let me post the results early? (before the published results)

I'll see if I can release the base gains.
 

gchronis

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OK, this forum is mving really fast. Show me 15-20 hp this weekend with the DC, JP, and I'm ordering on Monday.
 

gchronis

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Ok, what's this with the bigger K&Ns? There is a bigger K&N than the one provided, that will still fit in the fender? Why should I wait to get this until I mod up? Would it hurt to install this right away?
 

46stang

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toofast4u: i think this comment was a little harsh:
""You have posted what 16 times here all of them selling sh*t. "

DC systems are very high quality, and his customer service is top notch!! I think if you actually spoke with him you would see he is a great guy! He is just passionate about his product:) I had a densecharger on my previous stang and will be getting one for my cobra! I just want to see how this air filter thing goes before i order, as my car is modded! take it easy guys:)
Leon
 

toofast4u

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Originally posted by 46stang
toofast4u: i think this comment was a little harsh:
""You have posted what 16 times here all of them selling sh*t. "

DC systems are very high quality, and his customer service is top notch!! I think if you actually spoke with him you would see he is a great guy! He is just passionate about his product:) I had a densecharger on my previous stang and will be getting one for my cobra! I just want to see how this air filter thing goes before i order, as my car is modded! take it easy guys:)
Leon

I think the guy sound like he would be a nice guy, but he is here selling stuff and his view is and will be that the stuff he is selling is better then everybody else’s. He might even be a more stand-up guy and go back and figure out himself why somebody else’s stuff is better then his and correct it behind the scenes. I did not in any way mean to imply or state that the stuff he is selling is of poor quality or sh*t I just re-read and realize what you might have thought. I am just stating that all of his posts are about selling stuff, stuff would have been a better word then sh*t and I will change it. JP DEMOLET I am sorry if you think I was referring to your stuff being junk I am not by any means I am just challenging your remarks for what makes yours better then everybody else. I think that you and UPR are probably within fractions of each other in performance and without any contradictory testing data.
 

david smilovic

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Your all right you will start chocking up near 5200 rpm and a good intake is helpful but I dont believe the problem falls there.IMHO note that this 03' setup on fuel delivery cant reach must paast 500 ponies Chip or not.I will publish a list of what it takes to get over the hump in about 6 weeks after Sean (SHM) finishes off my new fuel system.
Mines even worse with perfecctly adjusted Mafterburner I still die out sometimes at 6000,6400 or 400 because my larger cams are bleeding down the 1st 10-12 Lbs. of boost and Im pushing 44x rrwhp nat aspirated wait till the new ATI and fuel delivery hit 650+ EZ Detuned.Dave S.
All I learn I will share after all cant loose to a Z06 ooops thats how I make my living.Dave S.
 

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