Yea I plan to run 10:5 compression with heads and cams . I want to run a 3.4 with 30 pounds . Would it be better to run a short block or long ?
A short block refers to the rotating assembly in a block (bottom end) minus the heads and intake (top end). Long block is a fully assembled engine with heads (with or without intake).
Yeah hes definitely going to want to run a long block. Way more power there than a short block.A short block refers to the rotating assembly in a block (bottom end) minus the heads and intake (top end). Long block is a fully assembled engine with heads (with or without intake).
Lol.Yeah hes definitely going to want to run a long block. Way more power there than a short block.
I believe a stock lower can be used as long as the bushing do not show any damage and or not 10+ years old. I replaced mine with block plugs then pressed the snout into the plug, it provides a very nice tight fit.No the block won't make a difference. Stock lowers will get destroyed. Your best bet is to go with an Innovators West damper with the metco ring (even if stock size). Supposably studding the crank helps prevent the snout breaking off too but I can't find any real data that supports it been better or worse.
Yes! They took a while to announce it, but any Whipple 3.4 that was ordered from Thanksgiving on out will have the Gen 3 rotor pack. You'll be able to tell because the serial number on the casing will have a "w3".Are they gonna be coming out with a gen 3 for the 3.4 whipple
Cool nice to know appreciate it man. How much more power did you put with the new gen3Yes! They took a while to announce it, but any Whipple 3.4 that was ordered from Thanksgiving on out will have the Gen 3 rotor pack. You'll be able to tell because the serial number on the casing will have a "w3".
I ordered my Gen 3 3.4 and received it around the new year. Casing on the outside looks the same as the previous gen 2. Supposed to be less power to turn, cooler IATs and more POWA!
View attachment 1466840
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Shortblock is lighter though.Yeah hes definitely going to want to run a long block. Way more power there than a short block.
It's still in the box, Lol! I've got the ARP2000 head bolts, RXT1200 clutch and a ton of other supporting mods...but still need a few more things until it's on and guzzling e85...Cool nice to know appreciate it man. How much more power did you put with the new gen3
How many miles has this survived and what upper pulley. Think you said its a 2.9?I believe a stock lower can be used as long as the bushing do not show any damage and or not 10+ years old. I replaced mine with block plugs then pressed the snout into the plug, it provides a very nice tight fit.View attachment 1464701View attachment 1464702
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According to whipple, the case already accepts the new lobe profile, so they didn't have to radically redesign it like the 2.9...I was skeptical and asked alot of questions as well...Thats odd that the case isn't revised like the 2.9
Nice keep me posted on your set up man. Yeah i do plan on buying the gen3 3.4 whipple . I’m going with mmr 5.0 stoker with the boss block which it says it adds .2 liters more, I want to run 10.9 to 1 compression with 25 pounds of boost . Not sure if it’s to much with the compression I want to run.Sebastian,
I would hope my setup makes 800-850 all day. I'm still stock block though.
I'm going with:
Completely stock motor
ARP2000 head bolts
Whipple gen 3 3.4 Crusher
Fore return with twin 465s
ID1300 injectors
ARH 1 7/8 headers off-road x
Stock caged lower pulley ONLY
Looking to run no less than 23-25+ psi. Full time E85 setup. No pump.
Then build a higher compression motor down the road.
If you're built motor, 3.4 would be the way to go IMO. 2.9 is a great blower as well, but you may be pushing it out of its efficiency range at 25+psi and generating alot of heat with a built motor.
Seems alot of guys are going to tell you alot of different things, but a general consensus (including that of a few whipple techs/engineers) is...2.9 for stock motor 3.4 for built motor.
2.9 can and will exceed your power expectations with built block, you'll just be working it harder than you would a 3.4. Just call whipple and ask...or talk to 3.4 OWNERS. Not 3.4 sideline haters.
Don't fear the 3.4. Unless running pump. And don't mess with aftermarket non-caged lowers.
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Nice keep me posted on your set up man. Yeah i do plan on buying the gen3 3.4 whipple . I’m going with mmr 5.0 stoker with the boss block which it says it adds .2 liters more, I want to run 10.9 to 1 compression with 25 pounds of boost . Not sure if it’s to much with the compression I want to run.Sebastian,
I would hope my setup makes 800-850 all day. I'm still stock block though.
I'm going with:
Completely stock motor
ARP2000 head bolts
Whipple gen 3 3.4 Crusher
Fore return with twin 465s
ID1300 injectors
ARH 1 7/8 headers off-road x
Stock caged lower pulley ONLY
Looking to run no less than 23-25+ psi. Full time E85 setup. No pump.
Then build a higher compression motor down the road.
If you're built motor, 3.4 would be the way to go IMO. 2.9 is a great blower as well, but you may be pushing it out of its efficiency range at 25+psi and generating alot of heat with a built motor.
Seems alot of guys are going to tell you alot of different things, but a general consensus (including that of a few whipple techs/engineers) is...2.9 for stock motor 3.4 for built motor.
2.9 can and will exceed your power expectations with built block, you'll just be working it harder than you would a 3.4. Just call whipple and ask...or talk to 3.4 OWNERS. Not 3.4 sideline haters.
Don't fear the 3.4. Unless running pump. And don't mess with aftermarket non-caged lowers.
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I'm no pro with stroker setups, but the compression seems a bit higher than the usual 10:1-10.5:1 range. That 10.9:1 ratio with 25+ PSI will be INSANE! If possible, alot of guys look into having the crank studded before it's all put together. Lot of inertia load high compression/big blower.Nice keep me posted on your set up man. Yeah i do plan on buying the gen3 3.4 whipple . I’m going with mmr 5.0 stoker with the boss block which it says it adds .2 liters more, I want to run 10.9 to 1 compression with 25 pounds of boost . Not sure if it’s to much with the compression I want to run.