2 codes...
- Thread starter Sith
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I have that same code...
Ford On Board Diagnostics II, (OBD II) code P1443 means that the evaporative emissions charcoal canister purge sensor did not detect any flow when the canister should have been purging into the engine intake system. The purging, controlled by the computer,takes place when certain conditions are met, such as engine speed and temperature.What the computer operates to effect this purging is a 12 volt solenoid valve, solenoid means it has a moving piston in it which covers/uncovers ports in the valve so that flow does/does not take place. The "gunk" coming out of the charcoal canister will sometimes cause this piston to stick, resulting in purging not taking place when it should, the sensor in the purge hose detects this and sets a fault/trouble code and also turns on the "Check Engine" light. The electrical windings in these valves seldom fail, but anything is possible. To locate and check this valve, first find the charcoal canister, it will be a round or rectangular black plastic "box" with several different size hoses attached to it. If in doubt that you've found it, look at the bottom, there will be a plastic foam filter there---make sure it is not plugged up---. Once you've located the canister, start following the hoses attached to it. One will go towards the engine, follow that one along until you find the control valve that it attaches to, that's the valve that's not operating. Several things you can do now, just buy a new one and hope it is not the wiring or computer that's at fault. If you want to check it and the wiring, first, with key off, disconnect the two wire connector from it. Use a 12 volt test lamp, turn the key to "run" and check for current at both wires in the connector, one sould have current. Next, connect the test lamp between the two wires in the connector, start the engine and let it warm up, then run the engine up to around 1500 RPM or so, the test light should come on, if it doesn't, then it is the wire that was "cold" when you checked for power at the connector. or the computer. If the light comes on, then it is the valve. Remove it from the vehicle and clean it with an aerosol can of carburetor cleaner,use the "straw" that comes with the can and spray the cleaner into both hose nipples on the valve, alternatly spraying and shaking the valve. When you no longer get brown "gunk" coming out of the valve, reinstall it in the vehicle, but leave, if possible, the hose from the cannister disconnected. Start the car and let it warm up, (if need be), now raise the RPMs to 1500 or so. valve should now open and a vacuum should be present at the open nipple. If so, the problem is cured. On some OBD II equipped vehicles, repairing some problems will cause the computer to turn off the check engine light if the fault is no longer detected, other vehicles require that the computer be interfaced with and the code purged with a scan tool. Any questions, don't hesitate to ask. I'm curious as to what "Inspection Station" would not have sophisticated enough instrumentation to analyze the cause of a P1443 fault code.
Badcially i think it all boils down to you Purge flow sensor.
Here is alllllll the codes. Your second code could be 'cause of your gears (got gears?), I had this same code pop up also, I was going just over 160mph though, reset your computer, should fix it. I had the guy at autozone clear it for me.
http://proficientmustang.com/ecm_codes.htm
Ford On Board Diagnostics II, (OBD II) code P1443 means that the evaporative emissions charcoal canister purge sensor did not detect any flow when the canister should have been purging into the engine intake system. The purging, controlled by the computer,takes place when certain conditions are met, such as engine speed and temperature.What the computer operates to effect this purging is a 12 volt solenoid valve, solenoid means it has a moving piston in it which covers/uncovers ports in the valve so that flow does/does not take place. The "gunk" coming out of the charcoal canister will sometimes cause this piston to stick, resulting in purging not taking place when it should, the sensor in the purge hose detects this and sets a fault/trouble code and also turns on the "Check Engine" light. The electrical windings in these valves seldom fail, but anything is possible. To locate and check this valve, first find the charcoal canister, it will be a round or rectangular black plastic "box" with several different size hoses attached to it. If in doubt that you've found it, look at the bottom, there will be a plastic foam filter there---make sure it is not plugged up---. Once you've located the canister, start following the hoses attached to it. One will go towards the engine, follow that one along until you find the control valve that it attaches to, that's the valve that's not operating. Several things you can do now, just buy a new one and hope it is not the wiring or computer that's at fault. If you want to check it and the wiring, first, with key off, disconnect the two wire connector from it. Use a 12 volt test lamp, turn the key to "run" and check for current at both wires in the connector, one sould have current. Next, connect the test lamp between the two wires in the connector, start the engine and let it warm up, then run the engine up to around 1500 RPM or so, the test light should come on, if it doesn't, then it is the wire that was "cold" when you checked for power at the connector. or the computer. If the light comes on, then it is the valve. Remove it from the vehicle and clean it with an aerosol can of carburetor cleaner,use the "straw" that comes with the can and spray the cleaner into both hose nipples on the valve, alternatly spraying and shaking the valve. When you no longer get brown "gunk" coming out of the valve, reinstall it in the vehicle, but leave, if possible, the hose from the cannister disconnected. Start the car and let it warm up, (if need be), now raise the RPMs to 1500 or so. valve should now open and a vacuum should be present at the open nipple. If so, the problem is cured. On some OBD II equipped vehicles, repairing some problems will cause the computer to turn off the check engine light if the fault is no longer detected, other vehicles require that the computer be interfaced with and the code purged with a scan tool. Any questions, don't hesitate to ask. I'm curious as to what "Inspection Station" would not have sophisticated enough instrumentation to analyze the cause of a P1443 fault code.
Badcially i think it all boils down to you Purge flow sensor.
Here is alllllll the codes. Your second code could be 'cause of your gears (got gears?), I had this same code pop up also, I was going just over 160mph though, reset your computer, should fix it. I had the guy at autozone clear it for me.
http://proficientmustang.com/ecm_codes.htm
DKS2814V said:
Thanks a ton man. As for the second code, I've only taken it to around 130 so I'm not sure why that would be set (no gears btw). I did buy the car from my brother and the CEL has always been on so it's possible he took it up.
BTW the light goes on and off which is really weird...
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Mine goes on and off too. I think thats because of my bogart MILs but, if you hit the rev limiter, it may have thrown that code also. Never know, these babies are sensitive!
Some say it does, some say it doesnt, I haven't noticed any kind of loss of performance with my codes. They've been on for about six months now. Just now makin' money to fix them all... Can't wait until I don't have that damn light blinding me.
The solenoid is like 40 bucks.
The canister, I have nooooo idea. Someone with the thread "what part is this" knows.. He just bought an OEM one. I'm gonna just replace the solenoid. Then look to the filter itself if I still have problems. My other code is Left bank running lean, forget the number, but I've had it before and fixed it with 02 replacements. I need to fix my cheap MILs and replace my 02's... That should fix my code problems.
The canister, I have nooooo idea. Someone with the thread "what part is this" knows.. He just bought an OEM one. I'm gonna just replace the solenoid. Then look to the filter itself if I still have problems. My other code is Left bank running lean, forget the number, but I've had it before and fixed it with 02 replacements. I need to fix my cheap MILs and replace my 02's... That should fix my code problems.
Should cost you about an hour of your time and 50 of your dollars for the solenoid. Doesn't seem like its that big of a fix. Apparently this is a frequent code with our cars, and people fix them with the solenoid replacement...
Under the antenna behind the wheel is where its at.
Under the antenna behind the wheel is where its at.
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