2000 GT 4v Swap

[colton620]

So I recently threw a rod in my 2000 GT and found a teskid block with 03 heads and an Mach 1 intake manifold for $900. I bought it and have been piecing it together recently. I haven't found much info on the swap. All I've gathered so far was that I would need a handheld tuner, 11in clutch, throttle and cruise cables and thats about it. I've also read the the wiring will need adjusted but I havent found much info on how it needs to be adjusted yet. I've got the new clutch, cables, throttle body and all injectors but I'm worried that my stock GT manifolds and I've already $2k in the hole with this project. I'm just curious if anyone has any info on 2v to 4v engine swaps and fill me in on what parts i may be missing and possibly guide me along with the rest of this swap

 

[colton620]

Bump. Can anyone help me?

 

[colton620]

Bump

 

[Weather Man]

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/190648-infamous-lincoln-mark-viii-engine-swap-thread.html

 

[VA-Mach1]

Wish I could help you. Just keep searching. I think the end result will be worth it.

 

[Gtmaniac]

Those gt manifolds aren't going to work just got done doing mines so I can chime in a little. Get either Mach 1 or any cobra manifolds they will work with your stock mid-pipe if you don't have a throttle cable a cheap and easy way to get one is off of the 97-98 mark viii. That gen intake sits in the same position as the 99-01 cobra and 03-04 Mach I did it it works lol. As far as the wiring just extend and reverse polarity on the coils and get the alternator connector from a mark and you will be good to go. Everything else is pretty much plug and play. you don't necessarily need the tuner as mine is running off the stock tune BUT a tune should be in the future because mines run like crap lol but it runs. But Google "4v swap Mustang" and you should get a ton of results also here is a video of a slight breakdown of a guy who did it. Good luck!

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-Rxbw_UPGi4

 

[D1SC_GT]

http://www.modularfords.com/threads/91637-My-2v-to-4v-swap-write-up

 

[joseph02]

well just to make sure you know, 4.6 2v, 3v and 4v they have different exhaust manifold. for swaping to 4v heads you will need to get wire harness out of any ford 4v engine and you will need 4v ecu other wise you will run into a lot of problems. when swapping to 4v your intake manifold should be changed because the bolts pattern will be different. you will need bigger injectors because the once from 2v are bad and cant do nothing. other than that you will be good.

 

[2V Terror]

4V blocks kinda have a lot going on as far as little odds and ends and sensors and stuff. Usually when a 4V swap is done, it is when someone has a complete engine. Because you're gonna have to buy a lot of little things. You will need the 4V timing cover, 4V valve covers, 4V exhaust manifolds or headers, and the ECU. You will also need the coolant crossover. 4V ngines also have a knock sensor so make sure you get that. And you will need the engine wiring harness. If your Mach 1 intake manifold is complete then go ahead and use it. But make sure that you get valve covers, ECU, and wiring harness all for either a COP style system or a coil pack system. Depending on how the EGR valve routes you might have to modify yours or just delete it altogether. You will need 24lbs injectors as well as a maf sensor calibrated for them. I think the belt is different or routes different than yours so you will need to look up that. And if you don't already have it you will need an 8 bolt flexplate/flywheel as all 4V engines have 8 bolt steel cranks...and don't forget you will need the 2 extra bolts as well. There is more but I can't remember what else you will need right now. If I remember I'll let you know.

 

[Oiljunkie]

well just to make sure you know, 4.6 2v, 3v and 4v they have different exhaust manifold. for swaping to 4v heads you will need to get wire harness out of any ford 4v engine and you will need 4v ecu other wise you will run into a lot of problems. when swapping to 4v your intake manifold should be changed because the bolts pattern will be different. you will need bigger injectors because the once from 2v are bad and cant do nothing. other than that you will be good.

Don't listen to this tit.
You don't need a 4v wire harness or ecu....Ask me how I know

An 00gt should have an 8 bolt crank. Early 2v's are 8 bolt cranks 99-mid 01 are 8 bolt

Lots of bad info in this thread

 

[Black02GT]

Don't listen to this tit.
You don't need a 4v wire harness or ecu....Ask me how I know

An 00gt should have an 8 bolt crank. Early 2v's are 8 bolt cranks 99-mid 01 are 8 bolt

Lots of bad info in this thread

Do the 2V ECU strategies have downstream air sensors and the ability to pull timing based on temperature like the FBGI0 code or knock retard like the other 4V?

The problem is a lot of info out there is Terminator swap related. For this doesn't matter as much for a Terminator where I'd go with the right ECU and harness. I've had it both ways prefer the latter. If your running N/A it matters less. Can you run a with 2V stuff, sure, is it ideal no.

 

[Oiljunkie]

Re wire iat1 as iat2

 

[2V Terror]

Don't listen to this tit.

Lots of bad info in this thread

With all due respect, there isn't any bad info. Nobody said anything that was incorrect. As far as the wiring harness, I personally would not carry the 2V harness over. I would use the 4V harness.

 

[Oiljunkie]

Do the 2V ECU strategies have downstream air sensors and the ability to pull timing based on temperature like the FBGI0 code or knock retard like the other 4V?

The problem is a lot of info out there is Terminator swap related. For this doesn't matter as much for a Terminator where I'd go with the right ECU and harness. I've had it both ways prefer the latter. If your running N/A it matters less. Can you run a with 2V stuff, sure, is it ideal no.

knock retard is a factory failsafe so that if someone puts in less then the octane ford recommends they don't destroy their engine. that being said they can't be relied upon, even on a stock engine.

With all due respect, there isn't any bad info. Nobody said anything that was incorrect. As far as the wiring harness, I personally would not carry the 2V harness over. I would use the 4V harness.

for a NA engine there is no reason to swap over to a 4v harness as i said above the knock sensors don't work worth a damn.

 

[2V Terror]

knock retard is a factory failsafe so that if someone puts in less then the octane ford recommends they don't destroy their engine. that being said they can't be relied upon, even on a stock engine.




for a NA engine there is no reason to swap over to a 4v harness as i said above the knock sensors don't work worth a damn.

But that is your opinion about the harness. If someone else says to swap over to a 4V harness, then that isn't incorrect or bad info, it is just what they recommend. Knock sensors have their limits. And within those limits, they do exactly what they're supposed to do. Is it gonna save your engine if you go lean at WOT while making max boost, I don't think so. But for what it is, it'll do what it was meant to do.

 

[Gtmaniac]

yea as stated before i didnt use the 4v harness or ecu just extended the cop wires and swapped out the alternator pigtail from a mark viii. break in miles are going pretty good on a canned tune from american muscle. i had them send me a 2v tune for 24lb injectors with the egr turned off. i took the knock sensors off because my gt harness didnt have them. i am also using the stock gt MAF and im not leaning out or anything. it idles smooth and no iat problems you would have thought it was a stock cobra if i took the gt emblems off. plent power even with the stock gears and that sluggish first gear on the t56. not trying to step on toes or anything i guess its one of those things of how much you wanna pay lol

 

[2V Terror]

yea as stated before i didnt use the 4v harness or ecu just extended the cop wires and swapped out the alternator pigtail from a mark viii. break in miles are going pretty good on a canned tune from american muscle. i had them send me a 2v tune for 24lb injectors with the egr turned off. i took the knock sensors off because my gt harness didnt have them. i am also using the stock gt MAF and im not leaning out or anything. it idles smooth and no iat problems you would have thought it was a stock cobra if i took the gt emblems off. plent power even with the stock gears and that sluggish first gear on the t56. not trying to step on toes or anything i guess its one of those things of how much you wanna pay lol

Glad it is working out. My issue wasn't against doing it the way you did it, I was just saying that the advice you were given by others wasn't "bad info" at all. Everyone knows a shortcut or two. There are things on my car that others would have fainted about if they saw it judging by some reactions I got when I mentioned it on other forums. But hey, what works is what works. Good job.

 

[Gtmaniac]

yea thanks man ill say this though if i had to do it all over again i would have just forged the 2v and kept that too much work for one man lol. but yea there are plenty of ways to do this i did mines based off of 32vnomad and changed up a few things on the way. This is one of those "take your time builds" as it could get out of hand quickly on the budget haha!! :cryying:

 

[roguestang001]

I did a 4v swap out of an Aviator. I documented most of the build here:

http://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/f280/t359416/