2000R FAQ

[griffined]

I don't have access to the private owner forum yet, but I recently finished reading all of the messages here, and compiling a FAQ specific to the 2000R. The words and stuff in the document are all of the forum posts, where members generously shared their knowledge, advice, and opinions.

If anyone wants to take a look at it, and possibly send me some corrections, I'd welcome them.

It's in the format of a Word document at
http://www.edweird.com/2000RFAQ.DOC

I also have a lot of respect for the folks here, even if they sometimes let the posts drift off topic.

I see that I can attach it here. The one at the URL above will be updated when I get feedback.

 

[kevin]

i tried both your links and can't anything

 

[LogiWorld123]

Q: How much were these new?
A: MSRP was $54,995 when new.

Q: What’s the top speed and is it electronically limited?
A: Top speed around 170-180 MPH based on drag and RPM limits, not electronic.

Q: How much does it weigh, and what’s the weight distribution?
A: 3590 lbs with a 56/44% front to rear weight distribution

Q: How did Ford describe the R’s motor?
A: With glowing praise, of course.
"The basis for the Cobra R’s engine is Ford’s Triton 5.4 liter V8. The engine makes use of some heavy-duty racing technology such as a forged steel crankshaft, Carrillo billet-steel connecting rods, and forged aluminum pistons. Ford engineers produced an engine capable of 385 HP and 385 lb/ft of torque, which is street legal, EPA certified and very drivable given its high output power. The engine also features specially developed high flow aluminum cylinder heads, with dual overhead camshafts and four valves per cylinder. Underneath, a Canton Racing Products oil pan provides additional oil capacity, and much improved windage losses and oil control under severe racing conditions. Cooling the synthetic Mobil One oil is an air-to-oil cooler system mounted just behind the front fascia."

Q: What’s the difference between the R’s motor, and the 5.4 in the Navigator?
A: Differences between a R’s motor, and the 5.4 in a Navigator

Heads - the heads have been reworked for the R to provide better flow
Oil Pan - Canton Oil Products racing oil pan (9 quarts!)
pistons - forged pistons (much stronger for racing)
rods - titanium (again much stronger)
crank - billet steel (again, you guessed it.. stronger)
stroke - longer stroke than the normal Navigator motor to provide more "uumph" (that's a technical term)
Intake - a special "R only" intake plenum - this one SVT will NOT sell you if you are not an R owner - so you'll have to resort to something else in the aftermarket.
headers - short tube headers for increased flow of spent gasses
cast iron block

Q: How much power does a stock motor have, and what about one with modifications?
A: Most stock motors dyno about 400 at the flywheel rather than the rated 385. This means something like 330-355 RWHP on the dyno for a stock motor, and 370-390 for one with a modified exhaust and a chip.

Q: Did these cars come with an owner’s manual?
A: The Owner’s Manual is Black Binder with all kinds of cool stuff inside like resumes of the mechanics who built your car, a certificate of authenticity, decals for OEM’d parts on car and some various assortments of Ford manuals, most of which are standard Mustang stuff. Then there is one small one that is specific to the Cobra R.

Q: Where should I search for my build sheet?
A: Build sheets have been found in the front fenders, and on the rear bumper under the rear bumper cover if it didn't fall off in transit.

Q: Didn’t the car come stock with front brake ducts?
A: Yes. They should either be installed on the car, or still in a plastic bag. If they are missing or you need a replacement or spare set, you can get them from http://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com/
for about $300.

Q: What kind of front seats are standard?
A: The '00R seats are specially-made Recaros, similar to Sports model They have not only the Recaro stitching, but also have the Cobra R emblem stitched in. You can not get these from Recaro with the R unique stitching. They use unique rails to mount in the car. There is a not-so-obvious support at the front of the seat that can be pulled out for folks with long legs.

Q: What kind of shifter does it have, and can you upgrade it?
A: A B&M Ripper was stock. The Steeda Tri-Ax shifter for the R does not require 12v switch for reverse like some GM applications, and many like it’s firmer more precise action.

Q: Are there any safety recalls that I should check to see if they have been performed?
A: Yes, two of them. One has to do with the emergency brake releasing while parked, and affected all model Mustangs. The center console has to be removed to perform the fix, but the typical amount of time required is less than an hour.

The second safety recall 01S15 is specific to the Cobra and Cobra R’s rear IRS knuckles.
The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) has published a recall affecting certain 1999-2000 Ford Mustang Cobra and 2000 Mustang Cobra R automobiles. The affected vehicles were manufactured between November 1998 and August 2000.

If the ball joint assembly where the lower control arm attaches in the rear knuckle on certain of these cars moves forward or backward from its installed position, greater stress will be placed on the knuckle casting. If this occurs, the casting could fracture, allowing the corner of the vehicle to drop, and the lower control arm could contact the inside of the rear wheel. In some cases, steering of the vehicle could be reduced. 8,100 automobiles are affected by this recall. Dealers will replace both rear suspension knuckles

You should have received a recall letter in the mail from Ford if you are the original registered owner. If you call (800)Ford-SVT or your local dealer with your vehicle’s VIN, you can get a blank copy from any SVT dealer. Then you need to fill it out and call a number located on the recall notice to get them to send your parts to your SVT dealer of choice. You can then schedule the recall fix. They will not let you just pick up the parts and install it yourself.

While they are doing the recall work, make sure they do an alignment. Make sure they use the R specs which are:
Front
Camber -2.5 deg
Caster +4.75
Toe -0.10 deg

Rear
Camber -1.5 deg
Toe +0.10

Make sure they tighten down the rear tie rod after the knuckle replacement or a rear alignment. Several people have had problems with the dealership not tightening everything down. The center nut that holds the halfshaft down to the hub to should be at 250 ft lbs. Also check the lugs. Check to see if they left the dust shield on the rear parts. The knuckle comes with them installed, so if the dealer didn't remove them and you don't want them there, take them off. The stock knuckles on the R don't have them, the regular Cobra does. They are held on be two bolts. Remove the rear tire and you can reach in behind the rotor to get at the bolts.

Q: What exhaust was standard?
A: The stock exhaust system consists of a Bassani X pipe (this is the pipe which is shaped like an X and connects directly into the headers at the rear of the motor just in front of the transmission) with stock "street" Cobra (1999) Catalytic converters (all 4 of them) and then a Borla side exit catback exhaust attached to the rear of the X pipe. The Borla exhaust consists of a single center mounted pancake looking resonator and two mufflers to rear and on each side of the resonator, which then connects to twin outlet side exit chrome tips on each side of the car just in front of the rear wheels. Many owner’s feel this setup is too quiet and have done mods to improve the sound and gain some extra power, typically around 30-40 rwhp and similar torque gains if a custom chip is installed at the same time.

Q: What exhaust modifications have owners done?
A: Bassani makes a complete exhaust upgrade, consisting of a better flowing X pipe, and a better and louder catback system. The system is 1/4" larger diameter than the stock system, further increasing air flow. You can choose an off road X pipe without cats, or a street legal version X pipe with only two very small hiflow catalytic converters that has higher flowing cats than the stock system. You can install either an X-pipe or catback, or both. The catback exhaust consists of a single straight through design muffler which connects to side exit polished stainless steel tips which are flatter but wider than the stock tips. Owners that install both report a much louder and meaner sound! The catless X pipe with new catback creates the loudest combination. The catback only upgrade is a little louder than stock. You can get this from a number of sources, including Houston Performance. They offer a discount to some groups, and since the complete upgrade is about a $1000, it’s worthwhile to join a group to get the discount. Join the SCMC for $15 bucks a year and you'll save 15% on the Bassani if ordered from Houston Performance. At the time this FAQ was written, The Bassani part numbers and prices were as follows:

1. Bassani X-Pipe (part #2KCR-3) $440 *NOTE is this w/Cats, need fact check here*
2. Bassani Cat-back (part #2KCR-420) $612

Q: What issues should I consider if I upgrade my exhaust, other than loudness?
A: The improved flow of the upgraded exhaust creates less backpressure, and under heavy deceleration, some backfires may be noticed. The custom computer chips typically eliminate this. The upgraded catback has side exhaust tips that are similar to the stock ones, but not the same. Most folks think they look better.

Q: If I decide to upgrade the exhaust, any suggestions or tips?
A: It’s much easier to do using a rack, than jack stands. If you are using jackstands, you can jack the front up on the K-member and put the jackstands on the lower A-arms. Jack the rear up by the differential housing, and place the stands on the lower rear A-arms. You may have to jack it up a bit in the front, to get the stands in, then go to the back, and repeat. You might not be able to jack under the rear with the front way up off the ground. Be sure to chock the wheels until they are all off the ground.

FIRST THING --- disconnect the positive lead on the battery. You will be working in close proximity to the main power lead on the starter, and that can cause problems if shorted.

 

[LogiWorld123]

REMOVING THE X-PIPE


If you are installing a new X-pipe, removing the stock one can be a challenge. You must remove the RH front O2 sensor with an 22mm open ended wrench to get a better, somewhat straighter shot at the upper bolt. Do this from the outside, at the passenger side wheel well liner.

The right hand header bolts may be on VERY tight, and have seized or been cross threaded. Work it loose by hand first, and then used an impact wrench to work them off. You might have to use a torch to heat them. Use a 3/8 drive 15mm deep socket with a U-joint wrapped in electrical tape to keep it from flopping around, and a 12 inch extension to remove the passenger side nuts.
Use the same basic setup with a 6 inch extension on driver side. All other O2 sensors can stay on the X-pipe until you remove it. Just be sure to take the connectors loose, and don't bang the O2 sensors up.

The collector stud/nut is an M-12 metric stud, and you might want to replace the flange nuts with 7/16 Tri-Alloy washers, M-12 stainless steel nuts, and use a lot of anti-seize. Be sure to get M-12 nuts if replacing them. The dealer may show M-10s for the stud size and that is wrong on the R’s.

Remove (2) 13mm nuts on the back mounting bracket on the X-pipe and (4) 15mm nuts, and the X-pipe is ready to drop out. Just wiggle it back and forth and it will drop out. Be careful you are not under it when it comes down. If you slide some cardboard under the car prior to dropping the X-pipe and muffler assembly out, you can drag it out from under the car a little easier when using jackstands.

Both rear O2 sensors may be galled in the bungs so you might have to get new ones. The O2 sensors are the same as the 99/01 Cobra. The passenger side collector gasket is also a Cobra common item.

XR3Z-9G444-?? Front O2 Sensors (Green) 2 Each
XR3Z-9G444-AA Rear Driver Side O2 Sensor (Blue) $ 79.20 list
XR3Z-9G444-CA Rear Passenger Side O2 Sensor (Purple) $ 79.20 list
XR3Z- 9450- AA Passenger side Collector gasket $ 7.22 list

Run in the 2 rear ones, and the driver side O2 sensor and reverse the removal process. Be sure to put plenty of anti-seize on the threads. Make sure the anti-seize is compatible with O2 sensors.

While hanging the X pipe you may find it was easiest to line up the passenger side collector, wedge the muffler connections together, and then start the nut on the passenger side upper stud and run it down snug. This will hold the X-pipe up enough to get you started. If you cannot get the rear hanger to line up, then just spray some silicone on the little rubber isolators, take the hanger off, place it in the X-pipe bracket, and start the nuts, then replace the rubber isolators.

REMOVING THE MUFFLER

You may choose to take it off in 1 piece. You could take it apart by breaking the band clamps loose and pull the respective parts off.

Hose down the rubber hangers and pins with silicone spray, then move them back and forth to work the silicone in and they will come right off.

Hang the center section on the rear hangers and line up the muffler to the X pipe. Set all 4 bolts (14mm on both nut and bolt) in place and tighten them down evenly. You may wish to add an extra washer (5/16) on the bolt side so that there is a washer on both the nut and bolt side. Use a U-bolt or band clamp on the driver side muffler input pipe to secure that pipe.

Next hang the resonators and side pipes, and be sure that the hanger pin is under the exhaust tip. Then place the remaining clamps on the resonator-muffler connections and the resonator-tip joints. At this point you only want to lightly snug down the clamps, and then stop and check the alignments. Once everything looks good, proceed to evenly tighten everything down.

You can use Walker 2.5 inch muffler band clamps instead of the U-bolt type clamps on the muffler-resonator joint and the front muffler and exhaust tip joints. Using band clamps allows you to take things apart if needed, which is not easy to do with U-Bolt type clamps because they crimp the pipe.

Q: What should I know about a chip mod?
A: If you are planning on racing events governed by a sanctioning body, you should check their rule. For instance the SCCA has rules about chip that requires it to fit inside the original computer. Some chips called rotary chip’s, have an external switch that allows for multiple programs to be used. In this case, they would not be allowed by the SCCA. Some owners recommend the R.A.C.E. Systems chip. With it there are no more annoying deceleration backfires, a much better AFR calibration, more power during shifting, and much snappier low end. It is a rotary chip that allows for multiple programs. You might use program #1 for regular pump Premium gas, program #2 for racing gas’s higher octane, and #3 for valet mode, with a 3000 RPM limiter.

Q: Is there any thing that tends to break on these cars?
A: If you go open track road racing, or drive at high speeds (over 100 MPH) for extended periods of time, there is a good chance that the rear differential will become damaged due to excess heat. The design of the rear IRS pumpkin is not one that promotes cooling of the differential lube. There is a solution in the form of a rear differential cooling kit, which is recommended for the applications described above.

The differential cooler modification was issued a Ford part number, and can be purchased from Kenny Brown for about $1799. If you belong to SVT Cobra Mustang Club, they will give a 10% discount off of that. It is SCCA legal. The differential must be removed from the car for installation, which may take 10 hours of labor.

Some folks have reported cracks and breakage of the one piece disk rotors when used under very demanding circumstances at race tracks. Brembo and others sell two piece rotors that fit the R.

The front splitter generates a lot of downforce and pulls on the front facia. When you reach speeds up in the 130 to 150 MPH range, the front splitter can start shuddering and shaking. It is believed that the front facia (bumper cover assy.) is not supported well enough to take the forces that are put on it from the splitter. If you grab onto the front facia and pull it up and down you will get that whole assembly to move. This will eventually cause the front facia support up by the headlights to break, which is a lot of work to get replaced. Owners have fixed this by creating a support for the splitter and facia. You could remove the four plastic push in clips (two by the headlights and to underneath the fascia) and replace them with bolts that hold everything tight. Then make a bracket to give additional support to it.

If you either can't or don't want to reinforce the front fascia area to make the splitter stiffer, leave the splitter at home when driving at moderate high speeds. If you are going to the track and need the downforce of the splitter, you must fix it or it will tear itself apart. The splitter also reduces your ground clearance in front to about 5”. If you drive with it on, you have to be extremely careful of curbs, speedbumps, and driveway entrances. Sooner or later it will scrape and crack on something.

Q: Can you remove the front splitter and rear wing, and why would you?
A: Yes, the front splitter is held on by DZUS fasters, and can be removed for loading and unloading from a trailer, or for slow tracks or street driving. You may wish to remove the splitter and rear wing if drag racing to remove extra weight and aero drag. The holes in the rear trunk lid for the wing will be left open if it is removed. If you take yours off, be careful as the studs are tight in the holes and it will chip the paint a little when you pull the wing off. It will not be visible when you put the wing back on though.

Q: I noticed some bubbles in the paint on the hood and front fenders of my car. Are any other like this?
A: Bubbles on the hood and front fenders over the headlights are common on some cars. Some folks pursued a correction via Ford SVT thru their local dealer. This is a manufacturing issue, and not due to environmental fallout or issues specific to a single vehicle.

Q: Can you get the splitter, spoiler, and hood from Ford Motor Sports?
A: Yes, the Cobra R specific body parts are now available.
2000 Cobra "R" Wing (part # M-16600-R00)
2000 Cobra "R" Splitter Air dam (part # M-16601-R00)
2000 Cobra "R" Hood (part # M-16612-R00)


Q: What kind of clutch is used, and can it be upgraded?
A: The clutch is the standard 99 Cobra unit. The clutch is a weak area only if you miss a shift. An upgrade does exist. The Apex Motorsports dual Kevlar clutch is great for track but really stiff for street use, requires small mod to the clutch stop to be made.

Q: Are the pedals right for heel toe operation?
A: You have to modify the gas pedal to be the same height in order to heel toe properly.
Could might consider replacing (with a custom-fabbed replacement) the throttle cable mount and move it back approx 1" which raises the gas pedal level with the brake pedal. Some have found they never had wide open throttle the way it was set up from the factory. They saw only about 75% open with the pedal jammed into the floor.

Q: Does the R have IRS wheel hop, and can anything be done for it?
A: Yes, it can have hop under certain conditions. Paul’s Performance and Ford sell braces and urethane bushings for the IRS designed to eliminate/reduce wheel hop
FRPP part number is M-5030-F and it is the FR-500 brace. List is $ 175.00

 

[LogiWorld123]

Q: Does anyone sell a shock tower brace that will clear the R motor?
A: Kenny Brown sells a shock tower brace that barely clears the engine.

Q: What size and kind of tires and wheels come on this car?
A: Stock OEM BfG KD’s are very sticky(100) and wear out quickly and throw pebbles up on car, and aren’t good in the rain. They are great for the track. Tires sizes are 265/40/18 all of the way around. Wheels are 18” x 9.5” OEM Cobra R’s with a Cobra R center cap. Lug nuts are 13/16th and chrome plated(same as 01 Cobra) Locking lugs were not standard. Chrome plated OEM wheels are now available from FMS http://www.gefracing.com


Q: What would be a good street tire to use?
A: BfG KDW or Bridgestone S01’s are better for street use. They will last longer, and work better in the rain.

Q: How much larger of a tire can I use without creating a problem with rubbing?
A: 275/35x18 tires work OK. However, as they are smaller in diameter, your speedometer well be off a bit. At 6500 rpm in fourth gear, you will run 143.5 mph with the 265/40 x 18 and 139.3 mph with the 275/35x18. 275/40x18 tires will rub on the front fender well. Larger tires can be used on the rear, but you will not be able to rotate them from front to back. Due to the nature of the negative camber used in the front suspension, this makes it difficult to even out tread wear over all four tires.

Q: Does anyone make a car cover for the R?
A: California Car Cover item # 16208WG is a custom made cover for our R's http://www.calcarcover.com

Q: I just bought an R. Are there any things I should check?
A: Keep in mind that the following things may have been reported by as few as one person, but you might want to check them.
Check the driveshaft bolts. They may have locktite on them but still not all of the way tight
Check the nut holding the battery cable to the fire wall. There was a nylon polyloc and was it not tighted down. The car might die sometimes because the power to the computer would be interrupted.
Check screws/bolts on the top of the fuel cell ( the inlet from the fill line) of the tank for looseness.
Check Master Cylinder cap for leaks.
Check oil cooler adapter under the oil filter for leaks.
Check if your lug wrench fits your lug nuts.
Check to see if a clock was installed.


Q: What should I know about in order to change the oil?
A: 8.5 to 9 quarts oil are required at change time. Mobil 1 Synthetic 15W-50 was used at the factory and a synthetic oil like this is recommended. It uses the same oil filter as a 4.6 Cobra, which is the Motorcraft FL802S or equivalent.

Q: What’s a good brake pad replacement for street use?
A: Hawk Plus pads good for street replacements.


Q: Why won’t my gas gauge go all of the way to Full when I fill up?
A: Most won’t reach Full unless you fill the tank very slowly. Typically an indicated 3/4 is full and owners fill it up around 150-250 miles on the trip odometer to be safe. 13-17 gallons to fill up after low fuel light comes on is what has been reported. Design implementation is supposed to limit the 20 gal fuel cell to 18. The stock Ford fuel level sending unit and computer were used with the Fuel Safe fuel cell.

Q: Why doesn’t my Temp gauge go above the Normal range when I run the car hard at the track?
A: The Temp gauge is damped like Cobra and Mustang models It will still say normal when at 250 degrees. You should get real Oil and Temp gauges installed if you run at the track, or care to find out about a problem before it’s too late.

Q: What’s that stuff on the air intake?
A: Rumor is that the strange black box that comes out from the air intake pipe (before the throttle body), is to reduce the noise level of the 00 R. When asked at a racing event, several Ford engineers came to the conclusion that the funny little black box was a noise suppression device, nothing more.

Q: I think I might want to drive this on the track. What things should I consider besides track tires, gauges, recall work, facia fix, diff cooler, and the other stuff in the FAQ above?
A: There are safety items, like a helmet, racing harness belts, and a roll bar that you might want to purchase. Two piece rotors, racing brake pads, check and change your brake fluid, a larger front sway bar, ultra light rims, subframe connectors and jacking rails, and of course a truck and trailer to haul all of this stuff around.


Q: I want to put a stereo in the car. What’s an easy route to take?
A: Wiring for OEM Mach460 stereo is already in the car.

If you get the appropriate adapters found at most fine AutoSound stores you can drop a system into your car, and not have to hack up the existing wiring harnesses, or waste many days building your own custom wiring harness.
The door speaker wires are already in the doors, complete with the funky Ford speaker connectors. The rear deck has the wires taped on top, under the deck cover. Just remove the back seat carpet and board and pop 2 trim clips and snake it out. You can bend it a bit, and It'll come right out. If you insist on removing the side trim in the back there are 3 trim clips on the outside, and 1 under the upper window molding (IE not worth the effort, I broke a mounting tab on my lower molding, resort to bending and cajoling the deck cover out ). You'll find 2 funky Ford speaker connectors there.

Door and Deck Speakers are 5x7s. You can put a bit of weatherstrip foam around the housing to isolate and seal the speaker from the deck/door. You do have to drill 4 holes for the doors.

NOTE ---- To get the door panels off, pull out the window control panel, and unscrew it, remove the door handle cup, and 2 screws, and pull up and towards the inside of the car and the panels come right off, reverse the procedures to reinstall. Install the lower clips first, and then press the door panel to the door, and whack, whack, whack on the top, until it seats.

The main power/speaker connectors are taped up behind the glove box to the main harness. It is a grey, and black set, and a phone type clip for the Mach460 Amp. The grey connector is for power, ground, illumination, remote turn on (IE amplifier) and Remote Antenna. The black connector is for your speaker harnesses.
The difference between the Mach460 and the base line unit is an extra set of cables or two that go to the amp and such. It had the connectors for the "Premium" sound system in addition to the base stuff. Extra speaker cable harness, etc.

It should be fairly simple to just drop in a factory system, or drop in an aftermarket using harness adapters. The harness adapter has a factory connector on one side, and bare wires on the back side, and basically would emulate a factory head unit. That way, all of the power, ground, antenna power, etc are all right there, tie that into your stereo harness, and just plug it right into your factory connector. The same applies to the speaker harness connector.

On the speaker side, Ford uses a funky 2 conductor connector for the speakers, you could just cut them off, and tire your wires into the cut end, stuff the bare wire to the speaker into the connector and tape off, or look for a speaker connector converter. It does the same thing as the radio adapter, and would just plug right into the factory connector.
anyways, the Mach 460 sound system is a complete AM-FM-CD with a separate amp for speakers and I think it came with some form of a subwoofer...maybe not...it is just a very nice factory sound system. The fact that they left wiring in the car for a radio was a god-send.

As for dropping the stereo in, all of the stereo wiring is thre up under the dash and in the doors and back deck, so if you go with Ford equipment, it is plug and play.

You do have to drill holes for the speaker mounting screws in the doors and if you do not want to hack up the wiring, etc, there is enough room in the door channel tube to run the speaker wires thru there. I ran the rear speaker wires straight back under the dash, and on top of the tunnel, and under the carpet and under the rear seat delete panel. Then cable tied up to the speaker holes.

If you troll around, Best Buy, Radio Shack, etc you can find the factory wiring adapter for the main harness, and if you get stuff from Crutchfield, they'll sell you the adapters to tie into the factory speaker harness. You will need something for an antenna, as there is not one on the fender.

 

[kevin]

well matt, i'm impressed

 

[LogiWorld123]

I don't know how to use copy/paste, so I just typed it all within 1 minute.

Maybe Microsoft will hire me.

 

[kevin]

Originally posted by griffined
I don't have access to the private owner forum yet, but I recently finished reading all of the messages here, and compiling a FAQ specific to the 2000R. The words and stuff in the document are all of the forum posts, where members generously shared their knowledge, advice, and opinions.

If anyone wants to take a look at it, and possibly send me some corrections, I'd welcome them.

It's in the format of a Word document at
http://www.edweird.com/2000RFAQ.DOC

I also have a lot of respect for the folks here, even if they sometimes let the posts drift off topic.

I see that I can attach it here. The one at the URL above will be updated when I get feedback.

i'm very impreesed with the compilation.

ok, so we wonder sometimes

 

[kevin]

Originally posted by Matt
I don't know how to use copy/paste, so I just typed it all within 1 minute.

Maybe Microsoft will hire me.

get the fire extinghser

 

[Cobra-R]

Looks great except for that last item under "
Q: I just bought an R. Are there any things I should check? " :cuss: :cuss: :cuss: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[kevin]

Originally posted by Cobra-R
Looks great except for that last item under "
Q: I just bought an R. Are there any things I should check? " :cuss: :cuss: :cuss: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

number one on your list:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[Andy M]

Originally posted by kevin
get the fire extinghser

Nope!! How about some hip boots!! :bash: :bash:

 

[griffined]

I put that in to see if anyone was really reading it. Heh heh heh.

 

[kevin]

Originally posted by griffined
I put that in to see if anyone was really reading it. Heh heh heh.

the best part:thumbsup: :lol: :lol:

 

[NJ2000R]

Originally posted by Cobra-R
Looks great except for that last item under "
Q: I just bought an R. Are there any things I should check? " :cuss: :cuss: :cuss: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
good job

 

[Cobra-R]

Originally posted by NJ2000R
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
good job

:cuss: :cuss: :cuss: :cuss: