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2003cobra#2's 3.4 Whipple Build
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<blockquote data-quote="03cobra#2" data-source="post: 16363253" data-attributes="member: 52057"><p>Update: I am done degreeing the cams. Wow what a event that was. It ended up taking me about a total of 12-14 hours. The initial reading had all the cams off by about 3-4 degrees. After I was done I was spot on mostly....a couple of the cams were .5 or so off the mark, but you know what, I am fine with that...I'm not building a dedicated race car. I ended up following the spec that came with the Comp Cams cards. 114 center line on the intakes, and 118 center line on the exhaust. Here is a few thoughts for anyone thinking of doing it themselves as I have never degreed cams before.</p><p></p><p>1. It is not that bad once you move stuff out of the way. I had to move the brake booster / reservoir, the fan for the radiator, and use zip ties to hold the wires out of the way. I ended up keeping the sway bar in place but I did move the coolant tank and hose out of the way as well. Good news is there is plenty of room to set up the dial indicator and degree wheel. </p><p>2. Using the L&M Engines adjustable secondary cam sprockets, and Comp Cams Adjustable gears made things pretty easy to adjust. Just take your readings, pull the chains, tensioners, sprockets off, make your adjustment put back on and re-record your readings. </p><p>3. I tried just clamping the chains to get tension but I just could not get consistent readings. So I decided to install the tensioners. Once I did that my readings became consistent right away. It is a bit of a pain to pull the chains / tensioners off to make your adjustments but you get pretty good at it and can do it quickly.</p><p>4. The setup took almost as much time as the actual degreeing. Such as finding TDC using a piston stop, mounting and adjusting the degreeing wheel and pointer, installing the solid lash adjuster, and setting up the dial indicator. I bought the TFS degreeing kit and ford supplemental kit. Those 2 kits combined come with everything you need, however I did end up picking up a digital dial indicator from Harbor freight as I was more comfortable using a digital....I just felt I could be more accurate with a digital rather then analog.</p><p>5. I worked on it a little here and there...this is not something you can rush if you never done it before. I had to read up on it for about 2 weeks to understand. There are a couple good Facebook groups and threads out there that really helped.</p><p></p><p>All in all, I'm glad I did the degreeing process for piece of mind, but my goodness it was a huge event that took up a lot of brain power lol.</p><p></p><p>Next up is to bleed down the lash adjusters, and pop the followers in...then start on reinstalling the timing chain cover / valve covers. So far so good.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1622456[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]1622457[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]1622458[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]1622459[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="03cobra#2, post: 16363253, member: 52057"] Update: I am done degreeing the cams. Wow what a event that was. It ended up taking me about a total of 12-14 hours. The initial reading had all the cams off by about 3-4 degrees. After I was done I was spot on mostly....a couple of the cams were .5 or so off the mark, but you know what, I am fine with that...I'm not building a dedicated race car. I ended up following the spec that came with the Comp Cams cards. 114 center line on the intakes, and 118 center line on the exhaust. Here is a few thoughts for anyone thinking of doing it themselves as I have never degreed cams before. 1. It is not that bad once you move stuff out of the way. I had to move the brake booster / reservoir, the fan for the radiator, and use zip ties to hold the wires out of the way. I ended up keeping the sway bar in place but I did move the coolant tank and hose out of the way as well. Good news is there is plenty of room to set up the dial indicator and degree wheel. 2. Using the L&M Engines adjustable secondary cam sprockets, and Comp Cams Adjustable gears made things pretty easy to adjust. Just take your readings, pull the chains, tensioners, sprockets off, make your adjustment put back on and re-record your readings. 3. I tried just clamping the chains to get tension but I just could not get consistent readings. So I decided to install the tensioners. Once I did that my readings became consistent right away. It is a bit of a pain to pull the chains / tensioners off to make your adjustments but you get pretty good at it and can do it quickly. 4. The setup took almost as much time as the actual degreeing. Such as finding TDC using a piston stop, mounting and adjusting the degreeing wheel and pointer, installing the solid lash adjuster, and setting up the dial indicator. I bought the TFS degreeing kit and ford supplemental kit. Those 2 kits combined come with everything you need, however I did end up picking up a digital dial indicator from Harbor freight as I was more comfortable using a digital....I just felt I could be more accurate with a digital rather then analog. 5. I worked on it a little here and there...this is not something you can rush if you never done it before. I had to read up on it for about 2 weeks to understand. There are a couple good Facebook groups and threads out there that really helped. All in all, I'm glad I did the degreeing process for piece of mind, but my goodness it was a huge event that took up a lot of brain power lol. Next up is to bleed down the lash adjusters, and pop the followers in...then start on reinstalling the timing chain cover / valve covers. So far so good. [ATTACH=full]1622456[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]1622457[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]1622458[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]1622459[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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