2013 Shelby GT500 DIB! ISSUES! AHHHH

[Sport The War]

So, got myself a 2013 GT-500 Vs buying a new Hellcat, well since I've owned the GT500 I've had an issue that's pretty much stumped everyone. I have a car that once the RPM gauge lock light comes off the car will literally fall on it's face. I have tried a tune, new throttle body, new intake from JLT with the res delete, I've cut the cats off, I've tried pretty much everything. Currently the mods list is a VMP twin 67mm throttle body, 2.4 VMP pulley, X4 VMP Tune, the pulley to help belt wrap, still running a stock 2.3L TVS. Has a K&N Filter. Again, this issue started when it was stock. I have run out of ideas and it's driving me up the wall. The car will hold boost to 18psi and when that light shuts off it's like the boost won't go over 13PSI and drops down to as low as 3PSI and once there's an extended period of boost it's like it just lets go and hits the wall mid pull and the boost continues to drop off.


Thanks again for the help if anyone has any idea. Car on the dyno made 400HP one pull and the next made 302HP.

 

[merkyworks]

Any data logs?

What's spark advance, what are IAT2 temps, is the HE pump is working? Lots of things it could be and it sounds like the car is going into limp mode or something cause 400HP and 302HP is way under what it should be.

 

[Sport The War]

Yea, I've logged quite a few and it's like the throttle body is closing or the bypass is letting go.

 

[2011 gtcs]

That's a new one, I wounder if it's just a issue with the engine ECU. Maybe see what a new one would cost you, either that or contact Lund racing about trying to tune it. Does VMP have any advice on what think the issue is?

 

[Sport The War]

Don't know if it's worth noting, but the entire time of ownership it's never thrown a single code. So it's not trying to help. LoL

 

[Sport The War]

Waiting on Justin to get back and take a look. I am going to do a bit more datalogs different things when it's cold vs when it's warm. It's funny because it's Jekyll and Hyde. When the RPM lock is on the car is a complete monster. Once that drops off the car literally would have trouble spinning the tires. It's almost like it's gone from a solid 690 to 700hp to absolutely nothing. There's literally no power there and the supercharger isn't even really audible. After pulling the cats off yesterday it worked for a bit longer and once it got warmed it up, went back to no boost and power loss. The idea was maybe there's a plugged cat and that's causing the car to get bound up.

 

[Snoopy49]

Any data logs?

What's spark advance, what are IAT2 temps, is the HE pump is working? Lots of things it could be and it sounds like the car is going into limp mode or something cause 400HP and 302HP is way under what it should be.

High IAT2 temps usually equals dead intercooler heat exchanger pump. It seems like most of the 13-14 pump problems are cause by wiring problems.
Check out this thread and the additional links in the thread.
2013 gt500 intercooler pump help!!

Good luck.

 

[Sport The War]

Here's a metric ton of logs I've done. When it's cold you can see it's a monster. When it warms up it goes to hell in a hand basket.

 

[biminiLX]

Follow above post, sounds like cooler pump
-J

 

[Sport The War]

You gentleman are correct. The pump is not functioning at all! Good call guys! I'll see what I can do to fix it.

 

[merkyworks]

Glad you found the problem and it should be a relatively simple fix.

Man that's another 13-14 with HE pump issues, summer heat strikes again I guess. Maybe its just me but I feel like I read about 13-14 pumps having issues way more than I read about 08-12 pumps having issues. Guess Ford has a reason to come up with that "updated" wire harness with 18 ga. instead of 20 ga. wires.

 

[manny231988]

Anybody know the part number for this updated harness pigtail ?

 

[merkyworks]

Full credit to @Catmonkey who also did a great write up on 13-14 pump info HERE.

CU2Z-14S411-AYA

 

[Catmonkey]

I read that other thread and there seems to be another harness in the chain that is causing the pump failures. I am not familiar enough with the 13-14 wiring harness, but apparently there is a harness between the pump connector and the main harness that I'm seeing in these threads. Apparently it's a ground wire terminal that's failing. It may be easier to use the 4 wire harness I have in my thread and then use the ground terminal of that harness and find a better ground location.

 

[Dinosgt]

I read that other thread and there seems to be another harness in the chain that is causing the pump failures. I am not familiar enough with the 13-14 wiring harness, but apparently there is a harness between the pump connector and the main harness that I'm seeing in these threads. Apparently it's a ground wire terminal that's failing. It may be easier to use the 4 wire harness I have in my thread and then use the ground terminal of that harness and find a better ground location.

This is very interesting. Can we just ‘double down’ on the ground wire in the current set up? If it’s simply a capacity issue, can we just run a second ground and call it done?

I worry because in my current tune the IC pump runs 24/7.

Thanks much.


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[Sport The War]

So this just got weird, I can jump the 3 to 5 and the pump runs.. but when the car is on and running and hot the heat exchanger pump doesn't trigger.

 

[Catmonkey]

Do you have the ability to monitor IAT2 to see what it's reading? If you had a bad sensor, it may be telling the PCM the intake temperature is lower than it really is.

Dino, I don't know why you couldn't wire the no. 1 pin on the pump harness directly to ground although, you might want to ground the other side of the harness also, in the event there is another circuit that relies on ground.

 

[Dinosgt]

Thanks Catmonkey. I am an ME, not an EE so electrons are foreign to me.

I naively assumed that if the ground is weak, then just running a separate wire from the current ground to any other ground location on the car would ‘fix’ it. I recall the older threads which showed burnt connections at the fuse box side which caused the intermittent pump issues.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

 

[Catmonkey]

I'm neither, but I play one on the internet. I know just enough to be dangerous.

 

[Sport The War]

So I went to the dealership today and decided to try a relay, well since the wiring wasn't all burned and the connectors all looked great, I went with the relay. I was able to jump the 3 to 5 to get the pump to turn on and when the relay was in the car I've never seen the pump on. I've had this problem since I bought the car where I've never actually got to feel her under her own power. I'll get maybe a 1st and 2nd pull if I am lucky but I don't get through 2nd gear and the car would just fall on it's face. I have a 2012 Camaro 2SS RS 6 speed LS3, before buying this car and it was relatively quicker but not much. I thought that was all it's had. Well as of today I can officially say.. Whoa mama.. I am glad to report back that the car is 100% working flawlessly and I thank everyone that helped. IF someone reading this has it feel like it's under powered, check the links posted in this thread and you're on the right track. if you've never felt this car actually make a pull.. Whoa. Thanks to everyone that got me on the right track here, I've been chasing the demon for the entire ownership of the car. I can't express the relief of knowing it's finally working and man what a reward in power. To all of you that commented and helped, my wife and I both thank you. It's been a hell of a time trying to figure it out. I've gone through tuners, and experts and still it's been an issue.