2014 TR6060 in 2010

[VaPony]

All I was able to pick up a super low mileage 2014 TR6060, clutch, flywheel, throw out bearing, and driveshaft for a great price. Is there anything else I'll need to install these in my 2010?
I'm assuming since I have the 2014 trans the driveshaft will bolt up. Will the slave cylinder and line be ok?
My 2010 has always had the dreaded 2nd gear issues.
Is this clutch ok or should I pick up a McLeod?
My car has never been to the track just a weekend car, but I have done a TVS swap on it.

Thank you all

 

[Snoopy49]

The clutch is a big question mark unless you know it's history.

 

[RedVenom48]

Theoretically should be straightforward. Be aware, the gear ratios are slightly different so keep that in mind when you test drive her the first few times. To be on the safe side, Id replace the slave cylinder, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing while you have everything apart. Upgrade slave to the 2014 p/n.

You also will probably need to purchase a 2013-14 pinion flange for your differential, or at the very least find adapters as the flange on the 2013-14 cars are different.

 

[Snoopy49]

You should also replace the clutch master cylinder and now would be a good time to replace the clutch fluid line with this one.

Hydraulically, the need was to increase flow volume, so SVT increased the master cylinder bore diameter. This reduced the hydraulic leverage in the system at the same time the clutch spring pressure had been increased, so clutch pedal effort rose considerably. An over-center spring was therefore added to the pedal arm to drop pedal effort back to something similar to the '12 level, but ultimately the end result is that the '13 clutch is a little heavier to the driver.

2013 Shelby GT500 Chassis Development - Total Package



Mainly a carryover item for '13, the pedal assembly uses a lightweight composite bracket to mount the brake and clutch pedals. The brake pedal and master cylinder are unchanged, but the clutch is rigged with a new master cylinder and an effort-reducing over-center spring. The new spring is easy enough to see here; the coilspring is mounted vertically, parallel to the clutch pedal arm. Grease points and nylon bushings keep it quiet.



A close-up of the pedal assembly shows the new clutch master cylinder. It features a larger-diameter bore, plus a considerably more rigid forged- aluminum construction to withstand the system's higher hydraulic pressures. The '12 clutch master cylinder used a plastic housing with an aluminum sleeve in the bore. It flexed excessively when trying to operate the '13 clutch and so was replaced.

 

[ShelbyGT5HUN]

That's a great score OP! How much did all that hardware cost you, if you don't mind me asking?

 

[VaPony]

Great information all! Thank you. Exactly what I was looking for. Good info on the gearing change. I didn't realize the flange changed on the pinion. I'll definitely need to pick that up, and change the above mentioned parts too. When that's all done the car will be better than when I got it 6 years ago.
I do some more research to gather part numbers and visit Tasca.
I picked everything up from a gentleman that was selling the parts here a couple months ago. He was local to my brother who is watching over the car while I'm in Germany for the next 2 years. It all worked out well.