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2015+ Shelby GT350 Mustang
2020 Gt350R Heritage Build (Track Setup)
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<blockquote data-quote="ANGREY" data-source="post: 16550985" data-attributes="member: 188865"><p>Fuel, let's see. If you're E85 at 750 wheels, you can probably get away with just a boost a pump on the factory pumps. You might need bigger injectors, but I wouldn't go 1300 or bigger until you need them. Injector sizing isn't one of those "bigger is better" items. Run them when you need them, but give your tuner the ease of tuning it with properly sized injectors.</p><p></p><p>How can I say this succinctly, Fore systems are great for drag racing applications. They're largely a "it's the best we can do" affair for street and not exactly optimal for "road racing."</p><p></p><p>With the IRS in our cars, there isn't a way to mount the tank rear and low. We have what's referred to as a saddle style tank, which means there's two reservoirs, one on each side of the driveshaft tunnel. The problem is, there's an "active" side and a passive side. The active side, where the pumps are, draw fuel and push it to the motor. The "passive" side has a pickup and a tube that's syphoned by the flow of the pumps (and a jet syphon) on the pump side. The problem is, under high demand and certain conditions, the pump bucket can become starved for fuel. When you turn left, the inertia sends the fuel up and over the crossover to the right side saddle (away from the pumps). The jet syphon can only syphon fuel so quickly and the pumps get starved for fuel. Under long sweeping left turns, or even hard left turns when you're at say less than 50% fuel level, it can send all the remaining fuel over to the passive side. Then as you exit or on your next mash, you run dry on fuel. This is why most tuners and vendors recommend you do NOT run a high hp car with a return style setup less than a certain fuel level.</p><p></p><p>Bottom line, in order to keep your expensive stuff from getting fried, you're going to need to either never run less than 3/4 of a tank at the track OR you can install lift pumps, fuel mat, surge tank, etc.</p><p></p><p>I don't think there's any data on additional cooling, but it's recommended by virtually everyone, especially if you're here in SFL where Summer temps are murderous even without the extra heat of more power.</p><p></p><p>The front clip push pins are what you see with a bunch of guys who either remove the front clip a lot or over time it just starts to sag and pull away from the attachments.</p><p>QL25</p><p></p><p>The drain plug has a few threads about it, if you get tired of breaking them and/or replacing them, just get a UPR (or there's another brand I think).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ANGREY, post: 16550985, member: 188865"] Fuel, let's see. If you're E85 at 750 wheels, you can probably get away with just a boost a pump on the factory pumps. You might need bigger injectors, but I wouldn't go 1300 or bigger until you need them. Injector sizing isn't one of those "bigger is better" items. Run them when you need them, but give your tuner the ease of tuning it with properly sized injectors. How can I say this succinctly, Fore systems are great for drag racing applications. They're largely a "it's the best we can do" affair for street and not exactly optimal for "road racing." With the IRS in our cars, there isn't a way to mount the tank rear and low. We have what's referred to as a saddle style tank, which means there's two reservoirs, one on each side of the driveshaft tunnel. The problem is, there's an "active" side and a passive side. The active side, where the pumps are, draw fuel and push it to the motor. The "passive" side has a pickup and a tube that's syphoned by the flow of the pumps (and a jet syphon) on the pump side. The problem is, under high demand and certain conditions, the pump bucket can become starved for fuel. When you turn left, the inertia sends the fuel up and over the crossover to the right side saddle (away from the pumps). The jet syphon can only syphon fuel so quickly and the pumps get starved for fuel. Under long sweeping left turns, or even hard left turns when you're at say less than 50% fuel level, it can send all the remaining fuel over to the passive side. Then as you exit or on your next mash, you run dry on fuel. This is why most tuners and vendors recommend you do NOT run a high hp car with a return style setup less than a certain fuel level. Bottom line, in order to keep your expensive stuff from getting fried, you're going to need to either never run less than 3/4 of a tank at the track OR you can install lift pumps, fuel mat, surge tank, etc. I don't think there's any data on additional cooling, but it's recommended by virtually everyone, especially if you're here in SFL where Summer temps are murderous even without the extra heat of more power. The front clip push pins are what you see with a bunch of guys who either remove the front clip a lot or over time it just starts to sag and pull away from the attachments. QL25 The drain plug has a few threads about it, if you get tired of breaking them and/or replacing them, just get a UPR (or there's another brand I think). [/QUOTE]
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