5.0 rebuild

[blackstallion19]

Hey everybody,

I picked up a cheap 1990 5.0, with about 97k miles. Needs a little love but overall runs OK right now. But it looks like I'm having oil pressure issues. When at a warm idle, the pressure drops to zero on the STOCK gauge and goes back up while driving. I already ordered a mechanical gauge and a braided line to see if that's the issue.

But ignoring that for now, even if it turns out to be just the stock gauge being as junky as we all know it is, I want to do a basic rebuild using one of the kits from Summit Racing. No machine work for now. I also want to do the top end. Probably just a trick flow kit. So my question is simple. Does it make sense to do the rebuild and the top end all at once, since I have to go through a shop and simply don't have the time or resources to do it myself? In my head, it makes sense to do it all at the same time. But if I'm overlooking something I'd appreciate any input all of you have. Also if anyone has any ballpark figures as to what the labor cost would run me I'd be forever grateful. Thanks a lot.

-I

 

[FISHTAIL]

Hey everybody,

I picked up a cheap 1990 5.0, with about 97k miles. Needs a little love but overall runs OK right now. But it looks like I'm having oil pressure issues. When at a warm idle, the pressure drops to zero on the STOCK gauge and goes back up while driving. I already ordered a mechanical gauge and a braided line to see if that's the issue.

But ignoring that for now, even if it turns out to be just the stock gauge being as junky as we all know it is, I want to do a basic rebuild using one of the kits from Summit Racing. No machine work for now. I also want to do the top end. Probably just a trick flow kit. So my question is simple. Does it make sense to do the rebuild and the top end all at once, since I have to go through a shop and simply don't have the time or resources to do it myself? In my head, it makes sense to do it all at the same time. But if I'm overlooking something I'd appreciate any input all of you have. Also if anyone has any ballpark figures as to what the labor cost would run me I'd be forever grateful. Thanks a lot.

-I

Not sure what kind of cost you are looking at, but in terms of what you should/shouldn't do, I wouldn't rule out some light machine work. If everything is in good shape, it's possible that none will be needed, minus some cleaning, and you can get away with just a ring/bearing set. But your engine may benefit from a crank inspection/polish, a re-hone, and possibly some main journal cleanup. While they are doing that, they'll need to spec out new bearings, and I would get new freeze plugs installed at the same time, along with new cam bearings.

This will add a little to the cost obviously, but once it's freshened up properly, it should be good to go for a long while. The ring/bearing kits summit sells are cool and all, but that only really makes sense if you are willing to DIY and drop 200 bucks on the set to give the motor a quick refresh. If you are going to pay someone to tear into it, you might as well drop a couple hundred extra and make sure it's done properly.

If I had to take a guess at labor, I'd bet you'll be in it for 1-2k in labor costs for a teardown, checkout, and rebuild.

 

[Dig Race]

Need to get your bottom end right before you look at top end kits. My oil pressure was doing the same thing, no knocks no ticks. Cam bearings were toast.

 

[blackstallion19]

Thanks for the advice, guys! I'll probably end up getting some light machine work done as well when I do the rebuild. Found a shop that'll do it for me in the 1000-1500 range plus whatever the parts cost. Have to travel a bit though, it seems a lot of shops stay away from the kind of work nowadays. As far as the oil pressure issue, a new mechanical gauge as well as a new oil pressure sender were installed and it seems to have done the trick, at least for now.