'89 560SL Oxidation Correction * Ford GT content as well *

TransAxle

Shine Auto Salon
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877
Location
Cumming, GA
Alright, the purpose for this thread to is too show a drastic change you can make with single stage...but for those who only look to look, I put another Ford GT I did recently in here to give them some SVT greatness to look at...

One of my customers wanted to get his Ford GT reshined back up, as it had been sitting in the garage for awhile and it needed to get cleaned up so it can go back to sitting in the garage. :nonono:

Just did...

Wash
Light Grade Clay
1-Step Jeweling Polish
Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant
Blackfire Midnight Sun Wax
Optimum Tire Gel

No befores just afters...with no sun! :(

DriverFrontAfter-1.jpg

DriverRearAfter-2.jpg

RearAfter.jpg

PassRearAfter-2.jpg

PassFrontAfter-2.jpg



Now, for the actual car of the thread for those who are in here for detailing purposes...

One of the shops I do work for, had this car sitting around their shop for a year waiting on the owner to put in some money to get the work completed. Since it sat outside a lot from being at the shop and from the owner neglecting the paint, the classic single stage paint went south in a hurry. Car was not street-able and I had some open time to get out to their shop to get it done rather than waiting on it. Originally I was going to do the usual 2-Step correction that I normally do on all the cars they bring to me, but as soon as I saw the car, I knew that 2-steps was not going to cut it. Tested the trunk, since it was an easy area of factory paint to test and the hood, since it had been repainted some years ago, to see what the outcome would be and what it would take. After starting into it, with a combo I knew would cut enough and still have the ability to finish down on the second step, did not work out. Figured out at minimum it would take 3-steps, 4 in a lot of areas.

Now onto the progress...

When I first showed up the condition of the car was quite a surprise...

PassFrontBefore-1.jpg

DriverFrontBefore-1.jpg

DriverRearBefore.jpg

PassRearBefore.jpg

PassQuarterBefore.jpg

PassSideBefore.jpg


A few shots showing the condition of the paint with twin 500w lights on them...

HoodBefore.jpg

RoofBefore.jpg

HoodandFenderBefore.jpg


I started by testing the trunk, since it was factory single stage...

Looks to be a decent starting platform...

BackHalfBefore-1.jpg

TrunkBefore.jpg


After 3-4 rounds with the buffers, think there was a slight change?

Trunk50-502.jpg

Trunk50-50.jpg


Now, it was obvious that the hood had base coat/clear coat on it, as it did not oxidize like the rest of the vehicle and more faded. Wanted to see how the paint would clean up and what it would take.

Hood before...

HoodBeforeWhole.jpg


Now after a go at it, another noticeable improvement...

Hood50-50.jpg

Hood50-50WattLight.jpg


Once I knocked out the roof, hood, trunk and top of the fenders, I did not have everything I needed to complete this job, so got as much as I could done for the day. Before I left, I talked with the owner of the shop and had them remove the windshield wipers so I could work around the cover panel and the rear emblem, so I could clean around it up.

After testing both areas, I finished claying the entire car. Even after washing, the paint felt like 800 grit sandpaper. Which, after sitting outside for a year and it being a single stage paint, I knew that was going to happen. Went straight to claying to help get out a lot of the grime and mold and cut some of the oxidation down. Only shot I took of the claying, as it took me just over 2 hours to do the whole thing and did not get more pictures as one explains it all.

Clay before and after, after doing a 1x1 area of the roof.

ClayBefore.jpg

ClayAfter-1.jpg


When I got back for day two, took off the pinstripe and we realized that the hood was not the only place that had been repainted, the driver door and driver quarter had been repainted at another time, separate from the hood. Which, was not a great repaint at all.

Once all the buffing as done, we started on the coated trim to try and clean it up as best as possible. The shop techs agreed it should be replaced, but most people do not as its costly to replace the trim. So after spending 45 minutes testing tons of combos, the only thing that would make even the slightest dent in the cloudiness of the trim was buffing compound & #0000 Steel Wool. We spent about an hour and a half going over the trim and cleaning it up as best we could. I can say, it did not come out brand new, but was a world of difference better than it was before.

TrimBefore2.jpg

TrimBefore.jpg


Final test area that showed great results...

Trim50-50.jpg


Finally after 9.5 hours straight with no break, we finished. Many paint spots later on the wall....

WallPaint.jpg


We were done. It was dark and the car does not move easily, so inside pictures would have to do...

DriverFrontAfter2.jpg

DriverFrontAfterLow-1.jpg

HoodAfterwithLight.jpg

HoodAfter2.jpg

FrontHalfAfter.jpg

DriverRearAfter-1.jpg

TrunkAfterwithLights.jpg
TrunkAfterHighShot.jpg

TrunkAfter.jpg

PassRearAfter-1.jpg

PassFrontAfter-1.jpg

PassFrontAfterLow.jpg

HoodWholeAfter.jpg


The top is missing in the afters, once we finished the top and the trim, we had it removed to work under the top that covers the paint and to get better access to the interior. It was set aside and I forgot to get any after pictures of it.

Then the causalities of war from day two...

PadsAfter.jpg
 

mario23_15

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Very nice. Saw this work over on Autopia. You did a get job bringing some life back to that paint. The GT is beautiful too.
 

Teethy

0S0SL0
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Messages
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Bedford, VA
Always amazed by your work.

You toss all your pads after a single use or you clean them up and get a couple more passes?
 

TransAxle

Shine Auto Salon
Established Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2007
Messages
877
Location
Cumming, GA
Very nice. Saw this work over on Autopia. You did a get job bringing some life back to that paint. The GT is beautiful too.

Thanks.

Always amazed by your work.

You toss all your pads after a single use or you clean them up and get a couple more passes?

Thanks. The microfiber pads, I will be able to clean and get some more use out of them, but not a lot more.The foam pads, I just do not bother. I could spend a lot of time scrubbing them with APC and what not. Then run them in the washer to clean them some more. But when I get jobs like that, that I know will bleed badly, I use pads that are already on there way out.
 

TransAxle

Shine Auto Salon
Established Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2007
Messages
877
Location
Cumming, GA
nice save. I actually enjoy doing cars like that cause of the end result. What products did you use?

Joe

Same here, its always fun working with single stage.

Products were a lot of different combos...

PFW w/ M105 via Dewalt 849
Microfiber Cutting Pads w/ M105 via GG DA
Tangerine Spot Pad w/ PO85RD via GG DA
Uber Yellow w/ M105 via Flex
Uber Green w/ PO85RD via Flex

great job!
Fantastic work.

Thanks.

What are the "paint spots" about?

The paint spots on the wall, really are not "paint spots." lol. They are the mass amount of polish/compound residue and some oxidation that was blown out of the pads after each run. The blue you are seeing is the bleed or dying effect you get from single stage. As I was removing .* mils of paint, I am getting paint color transfer that turns the compounds/polishes a blue color.
 

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