90' Charging Problem help?

Leeiswho2b

I'll be your huckleberry!
Established Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
333
Location
Charleston, WV
I started having an intermittent charging problem at first. I could drive it and it would be fine then the next minute it wouldn't be charging. I checked battery and alternator. Both tested good, but replaced them anyways. Checked fusable link, engine, and chassis grounds. It had got worse and worse to where it wouldn't charge at all. At first I could hit the frame under the dash and it would start charging. I tore the dash panel off and started pecking around, seemed to charge everytime that I would tap a relay. Figured out it was the Electronic Engine Control (EEC). I replaced with new EEC and it acted fine for a month. Now not charging again. Replaced the relay again, still nothing. It now drains down after not driving it for a week. After charging the battery, the only way I can get the alt to charge is by taking a test light and jumpering it over from my positive battery to the alt then releasing. It seems as if it isn't getting a signal to tell it to charge. Once I trick it into charging , all voltages/guages are fine until I turn off the ignition. When I restart it, back to square one. Any suggestions to where to specifically look? I've thought about trying to engineer a 1 wire alternator setup, but that is just putting a band aid on the problem. I have had the alternator rechecked.

Also, the steering column looks either like it has been changed or it had been stolen at one time. The wiring has been spliced, but all are tight and look fine.

I live in West Virginia. I've tried to call local shops here. No one seems to either have the time, knowledge, or just don't feel like trying to find the problem. Any help would be appreciated...
 

Leeiswho2b

I'll be your huckleberry!
Established Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
333
Location
Charleston, WV
Another question is there looks as if it is a junction box that the EEC and horn relay plug into. I wasn't sure what it was, or if it could be the problem. I had Ford run the part #. At first they couldn't find it in their system. After cross-referencing they determined it was a "buzzer" box. Neither parts dept or tech could tell me what that is or what it is used for. It is on a bracket that the EEC and horn relay plugs into.
 

Leeiswho2b

I'll be your huckleberry!
Established Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
333
Location
Charleston, WV
Well............

About the same responses here as local ones. Zero!

On a serious note, no one else have a problem like this?!?!?!?
 

DRCjasper

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2008
Messages
197
Location
PA
Well............

About the same responses here as local ones. Zero!

On a serious note, no one else have a problem like this?!?!?!?

Intermittent problems are the toughest to troubleshoot man. I'm no mechanic but the last time I experience something like this, my fuel gauge worked, then it didn't then it did again. Turned out to be the wiring from the sending unit to the dash that was grounding out. The sheath had worn down exposing a small section of the wire and the issue came and went as the wire made contact with bare metal. Do you have a multimeter? Might want to see if you can trace back any wiring gremlins by checking voltage. Don't know if that helps at all but good luck.
 

Leeiswho2b

I'll be your huckleberry!
Established Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
333
Location
Charleston, WV
Intermittent problems are the toughest to troubleshoot man. I'm no mechanic but the last time I experience something like this, my fuel gauge worked, then it didn't then it did again. Turned out to be the wiring from the sending unit to the dash that was grounding out. The sheath had worn down exposing a small section of the wire and the issue came and went as the wire made contact with bare metal. Do you have a multimeter? Might want to see if you can trace back any wiring gremlins by checking voltage. Don't know if that helps at all but good luck.

I'm planning on tearing the dash apart tommorrow. I need to change the heater core, so might as well try to fix the wiring problem at same time. I do have a DMM and a Simpson TS-111. I just have to figure out which wire goes to what circuit.

Wiring "gremlins" suck!!!! Would definitely rather have a mechanical problem any day of the week. I was just hoping that my problem was a common problem that people had, with the info to be able to narrow it down to a specific area. I did find something about a wire running from the back of the instrument cluster that sends a signal to the alt to make it charge. I'm hoping I'll be able to chase it down. Thank you for a response!!!!
 

DRCjasper

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2008
Messages
197
Location
PA
Good luck! Definitely post up what it was when you get it worked out. I'm curious.
 

Leeiswho2b

I'll be your huckleberry!
Established Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
333
Location
Charleston, WV
I pulled the instrument cluster out in prep of pulling the dash out. Checked the 500 ohm resistor in the back. Checked good. I looked over the printed overlay cicuit and cleaned the connections. Decided I was going to take my car to someone elses house to work on it. So, plugged the cluster back in and started it up. It's charging now!!! The speedo cable tab was broken and unhooked. Maybe it could have been laying against the cluster grounding a circuit on the overlay? I didn't find any broken or pinched wires. Anyways, it is charging normally for now. Still need to replace my heater core and speedometer cable.

Seems like there is always something going wrong..... Have a leaking power steering pump and a squeaky tensioner pulley now. Going to the parts store shortly to pick all three parts up. I'd much rather deal with something mechanical than a wiring problem!!!! Figure might as well replace the whole tensioner than just the pulley. It is either that or take the old off and prep and paint it. Just seems like less work going new.
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top