'96 Cobra won't start

[The Shermanator]

Hey everyone, after scouring this site for a few months I finally decided to join and now I could use your help.

I own a 1996 Cobra, which needs some TLC and lately has been giving me some problems. About a month ago I was unable to start my car. I would have to hold the key in the start position for about 10-15 seconds before it would crank and finally start. I was unable to start it one morning and decided to get a new battery.

Things were looking good until I come back from Christmas leave and boom, same problem. I know I have a new, working battery but my car now won't start at all. I have checked to make sure the battery cables were secured (they were), and I am at a loss.

Has my alternator taken a dump? Another part of this problem may be related to the very rough idle I've been having after I replaced the battery.

There are very few performance upgrades on the stang other then a K&N and off-road exhaust pipes. Any ideas why she won't start?

 

[TIMMONS]

try to check all your ground wires? i replaced my motor mounts and lost the bolt to the ground that connects to the mount, so it was just hanging on to the mount...drove it for the first time today (after it didnt want to start) had a very bad idle-missing alot. car finally died on me because there wasnt a strong enough connection between the ground wire and the mount...

sorry for the long post, to sum it up just check your grounds lol

 

[BackInTheSaddle]

First, verify you have fuel and spark.

Just fixed a non-start issue on my '96-it's been sitting for a month now... It would crank but not ignite. I ended up cleaning the battery connectors and hitting the fuel pump reset button in the trunk and it started right up. Still not sure what the real issue was...

GL

 

[The Shermanator]

I think I may know what the problem is. For shiggles I decided to jump it not expecting to work, because I assumed my battery was charged. Apparently not so much, after a few minutes pulling juice she started up. I will go out and buy and alternator tonight and replace it this weekend. Hopefully that will fix my problems.

 

[cobraman1024]

First, verify you have fuel and spark.

Just fixed a non-start issue on my '96-it's been sitting for a month now... It would crank but not ignite. I ended up cleaning the battery connectors and hitting the fuel pump reset button in the trunk and it started right up. Still not sure what the real issue was...

GL

If the fuel pump reset (aka "Inertia switch") was open so that you could physically push the button back into place, then that is what your problem was.

 

[COBRA90GT]

...I will go out and buy and alternator tonight...

I know you mentioned in an earlier post that you already purchased a new battery, but are you sure that the "new" battery checked out ok?

The store didn't sell you an "old" one sitting on the shelf for awhile, did they? Double check and look for the "born on date" stamp/code on the battery, just to be safe.

Also, consider having the new battery load tested at the parts store before you spend extra money on an alternator that you may not need.

Now, you can also do a little troubleshooting before heading to the parts store to confirm whether the alternator truly is bad.

This is accomplished by checking the voltage at the battery with an ohm/volt-meter (while the car is running).

Using the ohm/volt-meter, you compae a few samples of voltage readings at the battery while the engine is still running (fully charged battery, turn off all other electrical loads such as headlights, radio, HVAC system, etc).

If the alternator is headed south (or bad), you will see a continous drop in voltage at the battery after taking some sample readings every several minutes or so (because the alternator is not charging or keeping up with the electrical load of the vehicle).

In a nutshell: Measure the voltage of the battery before starting the car (with a fully charged battery of course). Start car. Check voltage at battery with volt/ohm-meter after say, 3 minutes. Then, check again after a few more minutes pass. If you start getting readings down around 9 or 8 volts after several minutes of allowing the engine to run, chances are good that the alternator is bad/headed south.

I take it your dash/speedo (volt gauge) has not indicated a low voltage/charging system problem though? :shrug:

 

[Cobra96SVT]

Nevermind about the starter, now that i see you had a low voltage at the battery...

 

[The Shermanator]

I noticed a low voltage on my meter before I jumped it. When I turned the key the interior lights and everything else got dim so it was trying to start, just not enough juice there. After I got the jump everything checked out normally, voltages at the battery and all else around. After I replace that I will go for a long drive to juice the battery back up and hopefully my starting problems will go away. If not at least I will have a new alternator with a lifetime warranty.

 

[1bad84fox]

Just because you have a new battery does not mean that it is fully charged. Most batterys that you buy will read over 12 volts. Remember to check the voltage and make sure that it reads 12.75 or better volts,then check the specific gravity with a hydrometer to make that it reads 1.25 or better. If your specific gravity is not this high,your battery is not fully charged. Also a good load check will tell you if you have an open cell.

 

[The Shermanator]

I'm 99% certain I had a good battery, after I replaced it the first time the car started right up, just with a rough idle. I might take the battery out and have it checked first but since my battery voltage indicator on my instrument panel indicates a weak charge I'm going to assume it worked at first but since I've been running on it and not charging charging that's why it's dead now.