I've searched multiple threads, but haven't found a direct answer for my dilema:
Earlier this year, I had to replace some A/C parts as a result of brain farts during the Procharger install. I pinholed the condenser with a drill and I left the low-pressure hose laying against the passenger side header. These issues reared their ugly heads at different times, requiring more than one R&R of the refrigerant. I pulled vacuum both times and replaced the dryer/accumulator.
Fast forward to a couple of months ago and I'm driving to get new titles and registrations for my cars. The A/C is blowing cold enough to hang meat and I'm actually having to turn it down. On the way home from the DMV, I notice the A/C isn't really cold. Adjusting the thermostat and cycling from Vent to A/C to MAX does nothing. When I get home, I smell refrigerant and pop the hood to find it has leaked all over the place. I never could find the source of the leak and eventually cleaned it all up. No obvious leaking joints, no burned low-pressure hose, etc. I just couldn't find a source. Best guess is that the relief valve lifted as a result of excess pressure. The cause? I don't know.
Finally got around to investigating the issue this afternoon. I bought a can of UV-dyed refrigerant and hooked up my hoses to check pressure. The compressor wasn't even cycling when I first hooked everything up. No surprise. After adding refrigerant, the compressor will cycle on and off while bouncing between 50-60psig (compressor kicks on) and 10-20psig (compressor shuts off). These pressures match up with what I remember the pressure switch being set for. My question is, what does this mean? Am I still low on refrigerant and the pressures will line out once it is full? I'm currently not seeing any leaks and the A/C blows cold when the compressor is on. Cycles are in the 5-10sec range.
Thanks for any help!
Earlier this year, I had to replace some A/C parts as a result of brain farts during the Procharger install. I pinholed the condenser with a drill and I left the low-pressure hose laying against the passenger side header. These issues reared their ugly heads at different times, requiring more than one R&R of the refrigerant. I pulled vacuum both times and replaced the dryer/accumulator.
Fast forward to a couple of months ago and I'm driving to get new titles and registrations for my cars. The A/C is blowing cold enough to hang meat and I'm actually having to turn it down. On the way home from the DMV, I notice the A/C isn't really cold. Adjusting the thermostat and cycling from Vent to A/C to MAX does nothing. When I get home, I smell refrigerant and pop the hood to find it has leaked all over the place. I never could find the source of the leak and eventually cleaned it all up. No obvious leaking joints, no burned low-pressure hose, etc. I just couldn't find a source. Best guess is that the relief valve lifted as a result of excess pressure. The cause? I don't know.
Finally got around to investigating the issue this afternoon. I bought a can of UV-dyed refrigerant and hooked up my hoses to check pressure. The compressor wasn't even cycling when I first hooked everything up. No surprise. After adding refrigerant, the compressor will cycle on and off while bouncing between 50-60psig (compressor kicks on) and 10-20psig (compressor shuts off). These pressures match up with what I remember the pressure switch being set for. My question is, what does this mean? Am I still low on refrigerant and the pressures will line out once it is full? I'm currently not seeing any leaks and the A/C blows cold when the compressor is on. Cycles are in the 5-10sec range.
Thanks for any help!
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