This is things i learned while installing the TVS on my car that are not noted in the instructions, that are missing from the instructions, or are completely wrong.
I attempted to take pictures of the plugs with a how-to to repin them, but couldnt get them to come out right, so the drawing with notes is better than any picture i could get.
If you would like the .odt file original, PM me with your email addy and ill forward it to you for printing. It was written in Open Office and should print in MSOffice, but may need some moving around of margins, etc to make it right. SOmetimes they dont convert perfectly from one client to the next.
Hope this helps you.
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Notes about installing the Roush TVS blower on a 2011/2012 mustang GT.
These notes are experiences learned when installing the supercharger kit onto my car by myself and the ASE technician. This is to be used in conjunction with the roush instructions, which are very detailed and thourough. Each note will be preceded by a page number and a note as to when, stepwise, the experienced step or note should be used.
Section A, disassembly.
Page 9, step c. After my engine stalled, it still restarted and sputtered before stalling again. It was allowed to do this 3 times, instead of doing as step C says, and there was zero pressure in the fuel rails.
Page 12, Step 6. The third sentence states to “remove the (3) forward Phillips-head screws from each front wheel liner”. On my car, which is a GT/CS, there was only 2 forward facing screws that required a 7mm socket to remove, and one going up from lower valance, 7mm socket also.
Page 12, step 7. The third sentence states to “Remove the (4) front fender to bumper cover nuts inside the forward wheel well (10mm socket). My car (early build 2011) was not built this way. The top of the bumper cover, where it meets the fender between the wheel well opening and headlight, snaps into place in three places. I lifted up on the bumper cover and pulled snugly out and it unsnapped easily. Reverse procedure to reinstall at completion of job.
Page 13, step 12. The engine cover snaps into place. Pull straight up where arrows show.
Page 14, step 14 and 15. The fresh air tube disconnects by turning the grey plastic tab that sticks out to the side and pulling straight back on the tube. Do not force it, it should unplug very easy.
age 15, step 17, first sentence. It is easier to remove the valve to remove the clip from the connector. Place the valve aside as it will be reused later anyway.
Page 15, step 17, third sentence (fitting located below brake booster). It is easier to remove the rear inner fender liner to get to this fitting. My mechanic simply pulled out 2 or 3 more ¼ turn clips and pulled it forward enough to reach. Using a pick tool, push the ends of the green retainer clip up, the push the clip out of its channel, the pull up on the tube from engine bay. Again, should be very easy, not force needed.
Page 15, step 19. Turn the blue tab and pull the hose off the fuel rail. Again it should be very easy.
Page 15, step 20. The double clamp is a pain in the A**. We used a pair of vice grips on one, then pliers on the other. Took some playing to finally get it off.
Page 15, step 21. These hoses are easily disconnected by squeezing the two tabs in, and pulling the hose off the barb. Very easy. I felt the tabs snap when they released.
Page 16, step 25. Keep the clamps, they will be reused. Discard the hose (or put in not used pile if your like me and keep all old parts).
Page 18, step 32. Loosen the water pump pulley bolts now, to make it easier to remove later.
Page 18, step 32. The bolt to rotate the tensioner is a 15mm head.
Page 18, step 36. The lower air box and cold air tube must be removed to remove radiator (and leave out until after you reinstall modified air guide). Two 10mm head bolts at top of radiator and it lifts straight up.
Section B, modifications. Here I will not what tools we used to do what steps and what worked well.
Page 19, step 2. Dremel tool with fiber reinforced cut off wheel.
Page 20, step 2. 30mm=1.18” and 40mm=1.57”. 1.2 and 1.6 measured with calipers is ok (and getting close is ok from now on, ill only put the exact conversions up to make it easier for you).
At this point, it is wise to tape up all open coolant holes, passages, fuel hoses, and ALL plugs that are disconnected to keep aluminum out. We also placed rags to keep it from getting into the front engine, water pump, ac compressor, and other seals. After all grinding was done, we carefully removed all that with most of the dust, then blew the rest off with a good air blower, taking care not to drive any into the seals using air pressure.
Page 21, step 1. Before starting, remove the water pump pulley.
Page 21, step 1. For A, B, and G, we used a dremel tool with fiber reinforced cut off wheels then cleaned up with a flapper disk on a 4” grinder. For C,D,E,F, we used a 4” grinder wheel and cleaned it up with the flapper disk. Make sure you wear good gloves, respiratory protection, and eye protection. We did break a couple of cut off wheels and they wouldn't feel good hitting your eyes.
Now comes the depining and repining using the new plugs and harness supplied by Roush. Below, I have attached a drawing showing how these plugs are built and how to get the pins out. Even after trying to get pictures for you, this is the best I can do without actually showing you.
Page 32, step b). Start stripping about 1” away from solder of pin onto wire. This leaves you room to reinsert it back into plug after you are finished.
Page 33, step 2. My position 4 wire was blue only, no white stripe. All others where as stated.
Page 34, step1. We carefully cut the middle where the wires come together to remove some stress from the knock sensor ends.
Page 37, step 5. 170mm=6.69” and 140mm=5.51”
Page 42, step 1 and 2. Make sure the tab on the bottom of the degas bottle goes into its slot in the fan shroud.
Page 46, step 6. 220mm=8.66” and 60mm=2.36”. It should fit on the rounded corner of the back of the bumper when in proper place.
Page 51, step 5. It may be easier to do step 9 from page 52 now, but one of the supercharger bolts will be harder to get to. You must decide yourself which bolt (TB spacer bolt of supercharger hold down bolt) will be easier to reach once the head unit is on the car. We did it the way the instructions say, using a u joint on a socket, but wish we would have done the other way. The supercharger bolt is probably reachable using a box end wrench, but may not be able to be torqued properly.
Page 52, step 11. Do not forget this step. If you do, it will not idle or run right and you wont have brakes. Don't ask how I know this.
Page 53, step 13. Go ahead and reinstall rear part of the fender well after you plug this in below the brake booster.
Never in the instructions does it say to plug in the new ACT sensor located on passenger side intake runner. Now is a good time to plug the new harness that you connected to the 70 pin computer connector to this sensor.
Page 57, step 3. My kit came with the wrong bolts for the idler pulleys. It had two huge (like crank snout sized bolts) instead of the proper 13mm head bolts. My mechanic found that the removed bumper bolts fit here. We used them for the time being, until Roush sends me the right bolts. They are replaceable after all assembly complete.
Page 58, step 5. One of us held the belt by the supercharger pulley while the other tightened the FEAD bracket to ensure the belt didn't slip off any pulleys.
Page 65, step 3. Preform the clamps to roughly the proper shape before attempting install.
Page 67, step 1. If you kept your factory fluid, then you should put exactly what came out back in as you purge air out.
Page 67, step 2. Fill the intercooler degas bottle to just above the return line, it will make it run a lot quieter and less foamy.
Page 70, step 2 of appendix A. 100mm=3.94” and 35mm=1.38”
Page 71, step 3 of appendix A. 180mm=7.09”
Page 72, step 6 of appendix A. 125mm=4.9” and 40mm=1.57”
Hope all this helps!
I attempted to take pictures of the plugs with a how-to to repin them, but couldnt get them to come out right, so the drawing with notes is better than any picture i could get.
If you would like the .odt file original, PM me with your email addy and ill forward it to you for printing. It was written in Open Office and should print in MSOffice, but may need some moving around of margins, etc to make it right. SOmetimes they dont convert perfectly from one client to the next.
Hope this helps you.
=================================================
Notes about installing the Roush TVS blower on a 2011/2012 mustang GT.
These notes are experiences learned when installing the supercharger kit onto my car by myself and the ASE technician. This is to be used in conjunction with the roush instructions, which are very detailed and thourough. Each note will be preceded by a page number and a note as to when, stepwise, the experienced step or note should be used.
Section A, disassembly.
Page 9, step c. After my engine stalled, it still restarted and sputtered before stalling again. It was allowed to do this 3 times, instead of doing as step C says, and there was zero pressure in the fuel rails.
Page 12, Step 6. The third sentence states to “remove the (3) forward Phillips-head screws from each front wheel liner”. On my car, which is a GT/CS, there was only 2 forward facing screws that required a 7mm socket to remove, and one going up from lower valance, 7mm socket also.
Page 12, step 7. The third sentence states to “Remove the (4) front fender to bumper cover nuts inside the forward wheel well (10mm socket). My car (early build 2011) was not built this way. The top of the bumper cover, where it meets the fender between the wheel well opening and headlight, snaps into place in three places. I lifted up on the bumper cover and pulled snugly out and it unsnapped easily. Reverse procedure to reinstall at completion of job.
Page 13, step 12. The engine cover snaps into place. Pull straight up where arrows show.
Page 14, step 14 and 15. The fresh air tube disconnects by turning the grey plastic tab that sticks out to the side and pulling straight back on the tube. Do not force it, it should unplug very easy.
age 15, step 17, first sentence. It is easier to remove the valve to remove the clip from the connector. Place the valve aside as it will be reused later anyway.
Page 15, step 17, third sentence (fitting located below brake booster). It is easier to remove the rear inner fender liner to get to this fitting. My mechanic simply pulled out 2 or 3 more ¼ turn clips and pulled it forward enough to reach. Using a pick tool, push the ends of the green retainer clip up, the push the clip out of its channel, the pull up on the tube from engine bay. Again, should be very easy, not force needed.
Page 15, step 19. Turn the blue tab and pull the hose off the fuel rail. Again it should be very easy.
Page 15, step 20. The double clamp is a pain in the A**. We used a pair of vice grips on one, then pliers on the other. Took some playing to finally get it off.
Page 15, step 21. These hoses are easily disconnected by squeezing the two tabs in, and pulling the hose off the barb. Very easy. I felt the tabs snap when they released.
Page 16, step 25. Keep the clamps, they will be reused. Discard the hose (or put in not used pile if your like me and keep all old parts).
Page 18, step 32. Loosen the water pump pulley bolts now, to make it easier to remove later.
Page 18, step 32. The bolt to rotate the tensioner is a 15mm head.
Page 18, step 36. The lower air box and cold air tube must be removed to remove radiator (and leave out until after you reinstall modified air guide). Two 10mm head bolts at top of radiator and it lifts straight up.
Section B, modifications. Here I will not what tools we used to do what steps and what worked well.
Page 19, step 2. Dremel tool with fiber reinforced cut off wheel.
Page 20, step 2. 30mm=1.18” and 40mm=1.57”. 1.2 and 1.6 measured with calipers is ok (and getting close is ok from now on, ill only put the exact conversions up to make it easier for you).
At this point, it is wise to tape up all open coolant holes, passages, fuel hoses, and ALL plugs that are disconnected to keep aluminum out. We also placed rags to keep it from getting into the front engine, water pump, ac compressor, and other seals. After all grinding was done, we carefully removed all that with most of the dust, then blew the rest off with a good air blower, taking care not to drive any into the seals using air pressure.
Page 21, step 1. Before starting, remove the water pump pulley.
Page 21, step 1. For A, B, and G, we used a dremel tool with fiber reinforced cut off wheels then cleaned up with a flapper disk on a 4” grinder. For C,D,E,F, we used a 4” grinder wheel and cleaned it up with the flapper disk. Make sure you wear good gloves, respiratory protection, and eye protection. We did break a couple of cut off wheels and they wouldn't feel good hitting your eyes.
Now comes the depining and repining using the new plugs and harness supplied by Roush. Below, I have attached a drawing showing how these plugs are built and how to get the pins out. Even after trying to get pictures for you, this is the best I can do without actually showing you.
Page 32, step b). Start stripping about 1” away from solder of pin onto wire. This leaves you room to reinsert it back into plug after you are finished.
Page 33, step 2. My position 4 wire was blue only, no white stripe. All others where as stated.
Page 34, step1. We carefully cut the middle where the wires come together to remove some stress from the knock sensor ends.
Page 37, step 5. 170mm=6.69” and 140mm=5.51”
Page 42, step 1 and 2. Make sure the tab on the bottom of the degas bottle goes into its slot in the fan shroud.
Page 46, step 6. 220mm=8.66” and 60mm=2.36”. It should fit on the rounded corner of the back of the bumper when in proper place.
Page 51, step 5. It may be easier to do step 9 from page 52 now, but one of the supercharger bolts will be harder to get to. You must decide yourself which bolt (TB spacer bolt of supercharger hold down bolt) will be easier to reach once the head unit is on the car. We did it the way the instructions say, using a u joint on a socket, but wish we would have done the other way. The supercharger bolt is probably reachable using a box end wrench, but may not be able to be torqued properly.
Page 52, step 11. Do not forget this step. If you do, it will not idle or run right and you wont have brakes. Don't ask how I know this.
Page 53, step 13. Go ahead and reinstall rear part of the fender well after you plug this in below the brake booster.
Never in the instructions does it say to plug in the new ACT sensor located on passenger side intake runner. Now is a good time to plug the new harness that you connected to the 70 pin computer connector to this sensor.
Page 57, step 3. My kit came with the wrong bolts for the idler pulleys. It had two huge (like crank snout sized bolts) instead of the proper 13mm head bolts. My mechanic found that the removed bumper bolts fit here. We used them for the time being, until Roush sends me the right bolts. They are replaceable after all assembly complete.
Page 58, step 5. One of us held the belt by the supercharger pulley while the other tightened the FEAD bracket to ensure the belt didn't slip off any pulleys.
Page 65, step 3. Preform the clamps to roughly the proper shape before attempting install.
Page 67, step 1. If you kept your factory fluid, then you should put exactly what came out back in as you purge air out.
Page 67, step 2. Fill the intercooler degas bottle to just above the return line, it will make it run a lot quieter and less foamy.
Page 70, step 2 of appendix A. 100mm=3.94” and 35mm=1.38”
Page 71, step 3 of appendix A. 180mm=7.09”
Page 72, step 6 of appendix A. 125mm=4.9” and 40mm=1.57”
Hope all this helps!
