Advice Needed from 6.7 Cummins Experts...

Junior00

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https://www.glacierdieselpower.com/files/ARP-Head-Stud-Installation.pdf

That’s easier than me typing it out, and there are tons of YT videos on it. Go in the correct torque sequence and replace and re-torque one by one essentially.

Which shop is refusing to do this? Where are you located? Yes, I would find another shop unless you’re willing to tackle it yourself. There are a number of reputable shops willing to do it. They probably will (and should) run a pressure test just to make sure everything is sealed beforehand but it is straightforward beyond that.
 

Junior00

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DP...can’t wait until Sid gets new hardware
 

SecondhandSnake

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As a 6.7 owner and someone familiar with a lot of the development on it-

Where and how exactly did it fail? I think I can see some soot on the #6 port. Did it crack or just warp/leak? I wasn't aware of the two piece aftermarket manifolds being available, but the 2 and 3 piece have greatly improved leaks due to warpage on Cummins products. Another part of that is using the correct fasteners and gaskets that allow for some expansion along the crank axis. Not 100% sure if the 2016 Rams would have gotten the same upgraded ones as other products.

Personally I would remove the manifold, plane it, put the latest studs/gaskets on it, and re-install it. I wouldn't mess with the stock turbo unless you're looking to go for crazy power, but I like the VGT feature too much. The hardware itself rarely fails, especially as long as you use it and don't let it get fouled from being in one spot too long. The issue is usually heat related on the actuator and board, which can be serviced separately.

Then if higher power is on the table studs are a very good idea- if only because doing them ahead of time will save you a lot of heartache and money versus fixing them after it fails. And of course if you're not too attached to the VGT function there's a lot of fixed geometry options depending on your wants/needs, but that's another discussion altogether.
 

JJackson515

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As a 6.7 owner and someone familiar with a lot of the development on it-

Where and how exactly did it fail? I think I can see some soot on the #6 port. Did it crack or just warp/leak? I wasn't aware of the two piece aftermarket manifolds being available, but the 2 and 3 piece have greatly improved leaks due to warpage on Cummins products. Another part of that is using the correct fasteners and gaskets that allow for some expansion along the crank axis. Not 100% sure if the 2016 Rams would have gotten the same upgraded ones as other products.

Personally I would remove the manifold, plane it, put the latest studs/gaskets on it, and re-install it. I wouldn't mess with the stock turbo unless you're looking to go for crazy power, but I like the VGT feature too much. The hardware itself rarely fails, especially as long as you use it and don't let it get fouled from being in one spot too long. The issue is usually heat related on the actuator and board, which can be serviced separately.

Then if higher power is on the table studs are a very good idea- if only because doing them ahead of time will save you a lot of heartache and money versus fixing them after it fails. And of course if you're not too attached to the VGT function there's a lot of fixed geometry options depending on your wants/needs, but that's another discussion altogether.

This, if you tow or daily it, for the love of god stick with a VGT turbo. Also, if the shop says you need a retune with the manifold, run the other way.
 

quick94gt

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This, if you tow or daily it, for the love of god stick with a VGT turbo. Also, if the shop says you need a retune with the manifold, run the other way.

Get rid of the VGT and do a 2nd gen swap, or better yet a compound set up.

Trust me, it’s what you want for reliability. The VGT actuator is what commonly fails. Aftermarket ones are not more reliable than stock.
 

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