aftermarket rods and pistons
- Thread starter CGoeschel
- Start date
Manley, carrillo or Oliver are the best choices for rods.
Manley, Carillo, and Oliver 4340 billet steel rods all weigh within a few grams of each other. The Carillo's and Oliver's carry more of their mass in the neck area, Manley's have more in the big end.
I nor anyone I know or speak with has ever seen a 4340 forged H fail in the neck region (hydralocking/hydraulic compression aside), so it's safe to say that you aren't going to hurt a billet rod in that region either. To the contrary, all engines over time will oval the big ends of their rods, as well as the bores of their cylinders. Putting more meat in the big end of a rod will help it keep its shape longer. For this reason I say Manleys.
As for pistons, 1) CP 2) Diamond. They both have thick ringlands and excellent finishing machining.
I nor anyone I know or speak with has ever seen a 4340 forged H fail in the neck region (hydralocking/hydraulic compression aside), so it's safe to say that you aren't going to hurt a billet rod in that region either. To the contrary, all engines over time will oval the big ends of their rods, as well as the bores of their cylinders. Putting more meat in the big end of a rod will help it keep its shape longer. For this reason I say Manleys.
As for pistons, 1) CP 2) Diamond. They both have thick ringlands and excellent finishing machining.
CGoeschel said:
The forged crank is good to 1400HP or 8800rpm (tested thus far) with large diameter ATI dampner. If going 1400HP limit rpm to 7500rpm or less.
CGoeschel said:
Typically it's not a bad idea to let your engine builder of choice buy the parts for you. Pricing is usually better than what you can get on your own.
Just courious,are you looking to do all this work for 700hp?CGoeschel said:
Ya, I think if you are going to rebuild this motor, I would get an AL block and the best rods and pistons out there and shoot for 1000whp
I just do not think you are going to feel a big difference on the street from 550whp and 700whp but I have never owned a car that fast so what do I know
I just do not think you are going to feel a big difference on the street from 550whp and 700whp but I have never owned a car that fast so what do I know
No way in hell you're going to get more than 750rwhp to hook on the street unless you're running ET Streets or stickier tires. If your bag is roll racing from 100+, ok, but otherwise, it's really pointless.
Im looking for around 700 hp....and yes, I like the roll race and just doing freeway roll ons when no ones around. Its just the fact that its there when I put on the sticky tires and head to the track. Its not my daily driver. Ive got a slow '93 Cobra for that. I was asking about the rods and pistons just because Id rather have it bulletproof than wonder "when its going to go".
CGoeschel said:
I'd do the same thing to mine, if I had one.
Ya, I hear ya, I was just thinking from a streetable standpoint. anything over 600whp sounds insane and I just cant imagine being able to feel the differece between that and say 700-750.
I would swap the block and go with an AL one for $4500 as well if your going to go all out.
I would swap the block and go with an AL one for $4500 as well if your going to go all out.
Which one of these 5.4 rods would best suit my needs?
http://www.manleyperformance.com/pdfs/newprod-rods.pdf
http://www.manleyperformance.com/pdfs/newprod-rods.pdf
CGoeschel said:
Ultimate HP, and rpm goals?
CGoeschel said:
You could get by with 4340 forged H beams with ARP 2000 7/16" rod bolts, going to 6500rpm, even longterm. If you like overkill you can go with the pro series 4340 billet I beams (which come standard with the upgraded rod bolts) for about twice the price.
I didnt see any prices on them but when building a motor, I take it most of the cost is in labor, so why not go overkill and use nothing but the best? Within reason of coarse
chuckstang said:
Forged Hs with rod bolt upgrade ~$580
Billet Is ~$1150-1200
Users who are viewing this thread
