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The Terminator
Suspension Modifications
Alignment gurus. Input needed.
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<blockquote data-quote="Blkkbgt" data-source="post: 15328373" data-attributes="member: 117234"><p>I really don't recommend either of these fixes as there is more than enough adjustment at the strut and spindle connection. </p><p></p><p>Camber bolts as they are commonly referred to have been known to break due to the relieved area on the side of the lobe and notching the CC plate is over kill and will void the warranty from MM . The only thing worse is notching the strut tower. </p><p></p><p>The other problem with any notching is that as you lean the strut in more and ( negative camber) you may start to run into the issue of deminishing returns. The amount of negative camber generated by say 1/8 movement inwards of the CC plate will give more adjustment when the plate is full positive than when it is close to maxed out. I know because I've played this game with my car and a few others. So the amount of notching could be much more than you think.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Blkkbgt, post: 15328373, member: 117234"] I really don't recommend either of these fixes as there is more than enough adjustment at the strut and spindle connection. Camber bolts as they are commonly referred to have been known to break due to the relieved area on the side of the lobe and notching the CC plate is over kill and will void the warranty from MM . The only thing worse is notching the strut tower. The other problem with any notching is that as you lean the strut in more and ( negative camber) you may start to run into the issue of deminishing returns. The amount of negative camber generated by say 1/8 movement inwards of the CC plate will give more adjustment when the plate is full positive than when it is close to maxed out. I know because I've played this game with my car and a few others. So the amount of notching could be much more than you think. [/QUOTE]
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The Terminator
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