Any consensus on Boss trans/clutch/shifter issues at this point?

Oldfart01

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2016
Messages
13
Location
Bethlehem, PA
I have read several long threads about the trans, shifter, clutch issues on the boss, but they are mostly older threads. Are they as bad as they sound? I know sometimes these kinds of things can sound a lot worse than they really are. With some more time on these cars now, I was wondering what the opinions are currently with the many problems I'm reading about?

The MGW shifter, stainless clutch line, fluid change, & clutch pedal assist spring removal seem easy enough if that's all that's needed. It seems like way too many issues to be a just a few guys beating/abusing their cars. Are these problems as common as they seem? It definitely has me concerned as both cars I'm looking at have really low miles, have been driven very easy, & don't have too much warranty left. It sure sounds like an extended warranty is called for at the very least. Sometimes with issues like I've been reading about it seems safer to buy one that was run harder & had weak links repaired under warranty. Thanks in advance, any opinions greatly appreciated.
 
Last edited:

tek302

Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2014
Messages
180
Location
Rowlett, TX
Its a real issue.

I recently upgraded my clutch to combat high rpm lock out and to avoid killing synchros. Ive already had 3rd and 4th replaced with shift forks. But is only under wot that issues really arise. Dont let it scare you away. I love my car
 

LS Boss

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2012
Messages
136
Location
Virginia
Hey oldfart,

Your question has been a topic that has been discussed endlessly since the Boss was first sent out the factory door. It seems like the 2012 model year had more problems with notxhiness than the 2013 model. The very early 2012 had a TSB that related to adding a friction modifier which seemed to help many of thos owners. Most of the problems people have experience have to do with lock out. I have this with my 2013 . I installed a race spec MGW which is an awesome peice of gear, but that another matter. If you take the OEM shifter oout of the car you see it is not a quality piece. It is to flimisy and rubbery to shift. The problem I have, as well as many owners, is when you try to do a high rev shift. For me, at 7000R RPM or above, I can not shift. The clutch will not release until the engine drops its revs below 7000. The fix is to replace the clutch. There are quite a few discussions about this so I'll leave it to you to research this if you should decide to replace your clutch.. The spring removal is not necessary. It's done if you put in a new clutch and the clutch pedal feel changes to being to soft. Removing the spring in this instance will now make it feel more OEM like. I have kept my shifting below 7K and someday I swap out the OEM clutch as I can live with this. The MGW shifter is an awesome piece of gear and is one on the first things most Boss owners do to their car. Some people have claimed that the MGW shifter has eliminated their lockout problems but I am sceptical about this claim. The stainless clutch line is an inexpensive nice to have but is essential if you are going to track the car as the heat generated by the engine and exhaust wll quickly degrade the OEM plastic line installed. Anyway, I think covers the highlights for some of the most important discussions related to this issue. Your situation might be slightly different than mine however.

LS Boss
 

FKing1

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2003
Messages
1,340
Location
Dearborn Hgts, Michigan
After a Barton Shifter & Blowfish Bracket failed to solve the lockout problem I put in an MGW shifter, Spec Stage 2+ clutch, stainless clutch line and Redline D4ATF in the trans.
Cost a bit, but, no more shifting problem.
As I Autocross & drag race it was worth the cost for me.
 

LS Boss

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2012
Messages
136
Location
Virginia
After a Barton Shifter & Blowfish Bracket failed to solve the lockout problem I put in an MGW shifter, Spec Stage 2+ clutch, stainless clutch line and Redline D4ATF in the trans.
Cost a bit, but, no more shifting problem.
As I Autocross & drag race it was worth the cost for me.
Hey FKing,

How do you like your clutch on the street? How does the clutch pedal feel compared with the OEM clutch? Also, do you have any rattle at low RPMs like they have with the McCleoud clutch?

Thanks,

LS Boss
 

FKing1

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2003
Messages
1,340
Location
Dearborn Hgts, Michigan
Hey FKing,

How do you like your clutch on the street? How does the clutch pedal feel compared with the OEM clutch? Also, do you have any rattle at low RPMs like they have with the McCleoud clutch?

Thanks,

LS Boss

Pedal effort is higher than stock, but, not too much and it does grab a little only in 1st gear starting out. No rattle in any gear.
Have an aluminum flywheel that squeals at start out in first. Put fat mat around the bell housing & trans that helps to reduce the noise transmitted.
 
Last edited:

PACETTR

Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2004
Messages
360
Location
Yukon, OK
My trans was replaced at ~4k miles due to synchro issues. While it was out of the car I had a McLeod RXT installed. Problem solved.
 

PACETTR

Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2004
Messages
360
Location
Yukon, OK
Pedal effort is light, slightly tougher to modulate than stock but not bad at all, no rattle, stock Boss flywheel.
 

el jefe 302

Making all kinds of gainz
Established Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2012
Messages
1,027
Location
United States
Pedal effort is light, slightly tougher to modulate than stock but not bad at all, no rattle, stock Boss flywheel.

You installed a RXT with the stock flywheel? That reduces the surface area for the disks right?
 
Last edited:

IamRacerX

No brand loyalty rhetoric here.
Established Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2009
Messages
2,339
Location
FL
Guys my experience has been similar. For me, I found an easy solution in my car. If there is any wheel spin in 1st, it will lock out so slow shift. If I rev it to close to the rev limiter (7400+) it can block me out. So, I avoid the sources of the problems. I also noticed when drag racing if I move my seat closer I never get blocked, I have even been comfortable enough to power shift it on hero runs.
 
Last edited:

FKing1

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2003
Messages
1,340
Location
Dearborn Hgts, Michigan
I found the with Barton if I was careful in shifting could avoid lockout.
The MGW is more forgiving. Although I haven't been to the strip yet, some back road runs have not caused any lockouts.
MGW & Spec clutch have solved my lockout probs.
 

KBBoss302

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2012
Messages
441
Location
Texas
I must be the outlier because I still haven't solved the lockout problem. Here is what I have done, in chronological sequence:

1) MGW
2) removed clutch assist spring
3) Whiteline transmission bushing
4) Blowfish bracket
5a) Spec Stage 1 clutch
5b) Spec alloy flywheel
5c) stainless clutch line
6) longer MGW shift rod (that shift knob attaches to for better leverage ratio).

The shifting is beautiful and precise until 7k+ at which point I still cannot get it into gear most of the time, at least with any sort of speed. Car only has 7k miles and I am the original owner. I need to just bite the bullet and get the MT82 rebuilt/upgraded by one of the experts because I suspect that by the time I had the clutch and flywheel put in, my synchros were shot. Thankfully, it doesn't cost that much to do (~$1500) and since I am never getting rid of this car, it will be worth it in the long run.
 

FKing1

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2003
Messages
1,340
Location
Dearborn Hgts, Michigan
I am not going to repeat my mods.
The Blowfish will not install with an MGW so I don't understand this.
My Spec 2+ & MGW have eliminated my lockout. No need to remove clutch spring.
 

KBBoss302

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2012
Messages
441
Location
Texas
Oh, and the Spec Stg 1 was recommended to me by both Spec and a very reputable vendor for solving the issue. In hindsight, I should have spent extra on an RXT or something.
 

MustangLife

New Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2016
Messages
1
Location
North Carolina
My first post here on the site and I wish it was a more positive post, bur hopefully positive posts to come. So I just bought a 2013 Boss 302 per recommendation of a friend who said they are awesome cars. I have owned many mustangs, but never had this many issues before with any of them. I am really wishing I had done my own extensive research before purchase, but the purchase has been made on 02/16 so I need to move forward and figure this all out and get my Boss driving right.

To sum my issues up:
Issue #1 Clutch heavy when above 4-5K RPM'S and shifting.
Issue #2 Clutch sticking to floor when shifting in high RPM's.
Issue #3 Lockout when shifting in high RPM's and fast.
Issue #4 A odd shhhhhhhhhhh sound coming from rear of car.

Any advice and direction would be greatly appreciated on how to correct these issues and get my Boss performing right. Would prefer to stay closely stock for the time being. Under warranty by a very little bit.
 

LS Boss

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2012
Messages
136
Location
Virginia
My first post here on the site and I wish it was a more positive post, bur hopefully positive posts to come. So I just bought a 2013 Boss 302 per recommendation of a friend who said they are awesome cars. I have owned many mustangs, but never had this many issues before with any of them. I am really wishing I had done my own extensive research before purchase, but the purchase has been made on 02/16 so I need to move forward and figure this all out and get my Boss driving right.

To sum my issues up:
Issue #1 Clutch heavy when above 4-5K RPM'S and shifting.
Issue #2 Clutch sticking to floor when shifting in high RPM's.
Issue #3 Lockout when shifting in high RPM's and fast.
Issue #4 A odd shhhhhhhhhhh sound coming from rear of car.

Any advice and direction would be greatly appreciated on how to correct these issues and get my Boss performing right. Would prefer to stay closely stock for the time being. Under warranty by a very little bit.
Hey MLive,

If I were you knowing the situation you have stated, the very first thing I would do is to bring the car to Ford and get an assessment from them as to what the problems are. The reason I would do this is so you can take advantage of whatever remains on the warranty. I believe the warranty on the drivetrain is 6yr/60000 mi but I am not 100% sure...it could be a little less. Issue 4 sounds weird. It could be a pinion bearing as there have been many reports of this bearing going out on the 13 model. Warranty should cover all these issues. Is the clutch in the car an aftermarket clutch?
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top