I took mine out just now to see if it is tracking straight and my A/C isn't working. It is just blowing ambient air temps. I checked under the hood and the clutch is engaged and spinning on the compressor, but I'm not getting any cold air.
Anybody having air conditioning problems?
- Thread starter dumbstixlars
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I thought mine was low on coolant but it just blew a fuse..
Was the compressor spinning?
Well it isn't the fuse.
The HVAC actuators are electric, and controlled by the HVAC module. The procedure below calibrates the actuators in your HVAC system. You could have a bad actuator or some other problem, but the procedure fixed a similar issue I had with my car. From the Ford workshop manual:
"The purpose of the module actuator position calibration is to allow the HVAC module to reinitialize and calibrate the actuator stop points. To carry out calibration, carry out the following steps.
1. Remove Smart Junction Box (SJB) fuse 15 for at least one minute. (SJB is behind passenger side kick panel)
NOTE: When the ignition switch is switched to the ON position, the HVAC module will initialize and calibrate the actuators. Calibration of the actuators will take approximately 30 seconds.
2. Reinstall SJB fuse 15. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and wait 30 seconds before verifying correct temperature blend door actuator operation."
Mike
"The purpose of the module actuator position calibration is to allow the HVAC module to reinitialize and calibrate the actuator stop points. To carry out calibration, carry out the following steps.
1. Remove Smart Junction Box (SJB) fuse 15 for at least one minute. (SJB is behind passenger side kick panel)
NOTE: When the ignition switch is switched to the ON position, the HVAC module will initialize and calibrate the actuators. Calibration of the actuators will take approximately 30 seconds.
2. Reinstall SJB fuse 15. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and wait 30 seconds before verifying correct temperature blend door actuator operation."
Mike
I just need to pull fuse 15 then for a minute? I don't need to turn the ignition on? What would cause this to happen? I'll give it a try.
Yep, just pull the fuse for at least one minute, then re-install the fuse. Turn the ignition to the "on" position (not starting the car) and wait at least 30 seconds. You'll hear the actuators go through their calibration procedure.
I don't know what would cause them to go out of calibration. I just chalked it up to an HVAC computer glitch. After I did this procedure about 18 months ago, the AC has run great since.
I don't know what would cause them to go out of calibration. I just chalked it up to an HVAC computer glitch. After I did this procedure about 18 months ago, the AC has run great since.
Well I did that and it still isn't working right. I'm pretty sure I heard something going on under the dash when I was waiting the 30 seconds. I think you're right though, because at full cold it is ambient, if I put it to half cold, it starts blowing warm, at low cold it starts blowing hot, and full hot is crazy hot.
Here's a link to the service manual in case you don't have it already:
online service manual
And here's the climate control section:
climate control
Sounds like you have a problem with one or both of the blend doors. Might be worth a shot to try the calibration again, leaving the fuse out for a longer period.
Otherwise, I suppose it's time to take it in for some warranty work.
online service manual
And here's the climate control section:
climate control
Sounds like you have a problem with one or both of the blend doors. Might be worth a shot to try the calibration again, leaving the fuse out for a longer period.
Otherwise, I suppose it's time to take it in for some warranty work.
I'm trying it again. I had left it full cold during the calibration. I figure if the PC is assuming that whatever it is set at is the mid point. That could explain what I'm seeing. Hope I don't have to take it in. Car has less then 1300 miles on it.
Nope no dice. Blows ambient at full cold, and at the halfway point it blows hot. Guess I'm going to the dealer tomorrow. :cuss:
Well, it was worth a shot. Please let us know what the dealer finds.
Mike
Mike
Thanks for the help. I'll update the thread with what the dealer tells me.
Check the high and low side lines under the hood. You could be low on R134 due to damage at the condenser(since its still new. I just replaced a condenser today on an accord that was not 9 months old due to this damage) but i doubt that's the issue. If you lose too much freon, the compressor will not come on.
You should be able to see the blend door motor. Move the dial from hot to cold and see if it moves. Also, since I am a Honda tech, not a Ford tech, I don't know much about Fords but on Honda there is a coolant blend valve and if that is stuck open, it's just sending hot coolant into the system so it won't cool. If Ford has that? Look at that also. I agree with the blend door but just in case, check the lines under the hood. This should still be under warranty though right?
Edit: The coolant blend valve is in the engine compartment just in front of the fire wall. You can see the lines leading into the heater core with a cable going through the fire wall. Just in case you were looking. Again, that's Honda not Ford. Just throwing it out there.
You should be able to see the blend door motor. Move the dial from hot to cold and see if it moves. Also, since I am a Honda tech, not a Ford tech, I don't know much about Fords but on Honda there is a coolant blend valve and if that is stuck open, it's just sending hot coolant into the system so it won't cool. If Ford has that? Look at that also. I agree with the blend door but just in case, check the lines under the hood. This should still be under warranty though right?
Edit: The coolant blend valve is in the engine compartment just in front of the fire wall. You can see the lines leading into the heater core with a cable going through the fire wall. Just in case you were looking. Again, that's Honda not Ford. Just throwing it out there.
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I had a defective evaporator in mine from new. They had to rip the dash out on a week old car. Very not nice.
Have not used the AC much since but it does not feel particularly cold.
How much colder than ambient is it supposed to be?
Erich
Have not used the AC much since but it does not feel particularly cold.
How much colder than ambient is it supposed to be?
Erich
Heat works dang well on my car...and it gets hot in like a minute or so. I recently had the opportunity to use my a/c for the first time since purchasing my car...seemed like it took 3-4 minutes to cool off. I wonder if that's normal for these cars or if it just took longer since it was my first time to use it? Like you, the cold didn't feel particularly cold.
Turns out my high side line is defective. The Schrader valve is leaking and the line was cracked at the "T" as well.
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My AC only blows cold on one side. I am assuming I have a blender door issue
I just replaced a complete A/C system on a 2005 CR-V the other day (so it's basically a brand new car in terms of the A/C system) and I got a reading of 39 degrees out of the vents. While it's true that a hot day will hurt A/C performance, the air should still be a lot colder then the outside air if you are in the situation where you need the A/C to be on.
Keep in mind that if you want to get the coldest air possible, you must use recirculation mode so the blower motors gets the air from the inside, not outside.
Which side? If your A/C is cold on the passengers side and not the drivers side, lack of charge in the A/C system will cause that almost every time. How long has it been this way? Could have a hole in the system that's leaking enough to cause the drivers side not to get cold but still enough to keep the passenger side cold. Obviously eventually the whole system will not cool.
Or yes, it could be the blend door. I just see more issues to the system either by road debris or leaks then I do from blend doors. At least with cars that are not 10 years old or more. Just a thought.
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