Anyone running the comp 106460 blower cams.

[uberstang1]

Looking into picking up the comp 106460s, along with steel retainers, comp springs, and adjustable cam gears. With this setup and 20psi of boost should i ditch the 62mm twin BBK and go with the 65mm or the acufab? Any other parts recommended to run with this setup?

 

[na svt]

A larger TB will not add power to a blow-thru TB setup.

Those cams are way to big for an engine that sees RPMs no higher than 7000rpm.

 

[encasedmetal]

and do not use comp springs

 

[98 N/A 4V]

5.4 DOHC Mustang Cobra B Head - YouTube

I had them in my old 4.6. It peaked at 6700 but I ran out of fuel and air.

 

[uberstang1]

What would be a better cam to use? And why not run the comp springs? Tuner recommended the cam, and comp advertising the rpm range from 2000-6400

 

[uberstang1]

Also if theres a better route please point me to it, the situation I'm in is I just got the car finished and tuned last year, it only revs to about 6k and making 603rwhp 20psi before the old stock b head valve springs are starting to float a bit and resulting in plug blowout. The solution I was going to go with was change out to those comp beehives because they are direct drop in with the retainers and I figured instead of just dropping the stock cams back in put the blower cams in and have it degreed while they are off anyone. Is there any other route to go with springs/cams that will drop in, do not wanna remove the heads from the engine.

 

[na svt]

The solution I was going to go with was change out to those comp beehives because they are direct drop in with the retainers and I figured instead of just dropping the stock cams back in put the blower cams in and have it degreed while they are off anyone.

Comps do not use the stock retainers. Spark blowout is not caused by flaoting valves; those are two seperate issues.

 

[encasedmetal]

Also if theres a better route please point me to it, the situation I'm in is I just got the car finished and tuned last year, it only revs to about 6k and making 603rwhp 20psi before the old stock b head valve springs are starting to float a bit and resulting in plug blowout. The solution I was going to go with was change out to those comp beehives because they are direct drop in with the retainers and I figured instead of just dropping the stock cams back in put the blower cams in and have it degreed while they are off anyone. Is there any other route to go with springs/cams that will drop in, do not wanna remove the heads from the engine.

comp springs break and cannot hold 20 psi, which btw you're crazy for running amount of boost with stock springs.

 

[uberstang1]

comp springs break and cannot hold 20 psi, which btw you're crazy for running amount of boost with stock springs.

Well thats just it I really didn't plan on the combo making 20psi of boost thats why I'm in the situation I'm in lol. Running a d1sc with a 3.4 blower pullet and a 10%od crank, few other people with the same combo were making around 15-16 pounds when I was researching it before I pulled the trigger, well low and behold mine made 20psi, ran it like that this year and now that winters is coming up thats why I'm changing out the springs and just wanna drop a pre made cam setup why its apart. Was also debating putting in ford GT lash adjusters and followers because a few people I've talk to had similiar issues that im having with the factory adjusters pumping up in the higher rpm range which they say mimics valve float, and was told to drop from 5w30 to 5w20 and see if it changes anything, but I'm probably just gonna toss em in while its apart anyway and apparently the GT adjustes bleed down faster. After talking to NAsvt decided to go with the crower stage 3 cam and the brian tooley springs.

 

[uberstang1]

Another thing to if it would rev up to 7k it actually would of probably made another pound or two of boost, but at 6k its floating valves or whatever its doing, two reputable tuners brained over this and everything checks out with the ignition and it shows no signs of the heads lifting so there thinking valve float or the adjuster issue, heres a pic of of my dyno graph it doesn't even look the the torque curve dropped off totally yet. Thanks for all the help on which direction with springs and stuff as well, if anyone has any other suggestions post em up really wanna get this figured out.

 

[uberstang1]

Comps do not use the stock retainers. Spark blowout is not caused by flaoting valves; those are two seperate issues.

Meant drop in with the comp retainers, but after seeing the price on the Brian tooley set its a no brainer and it seems they get a great review.

 

[encasedmetal]

the only thing I thought about is if you're seeing 20psi and you shouldn't be, you have a restriction in your setup that is creating the extra boost. you'll want to figure out what that is. do you have a log of the boost during the dyno runs? if the boost isn't dropping off when the pull is going awry then you're issue would not be valve float as much as spark or load related. definately need to change springs with that amount of boost though since the stock springs are only setup for 65lb at the seat

 

[uberstang1]

I'm not sure I'll have to ask my tuner, curious to see what happens with the cams and springs changed. Not sure where there would be a restriction, exhaust consists of longtubes offroad h pipe and lm1s, car runs perfectly fine up to the 6k it pulls to. I do know when I picked it up he said everything data logs correct, ignition looked good etc etc.

 

[uberstang1]

A majority of the boost difference I think had to do with alot of people on 6 ribs with belt slip and so fourth, ive see numbers like 12psi (which i find hard for a d1sc with its step up ratio and that pulley size,) to 15 psi, few 18psi, just hopin there is some kind of change once the valve train is updated, regardless needs the spring. Unless there some gremlin somewhere, it is a gt-s computer and was a prior fleet vehicle in the past.