Anything else required to lower?

[Mach3011]

Everyone I talk to has a different opinion about what all is needed when lowering the car..Mainly it's for looks, I don't commute much and just romp around.

I have done quite a bit of searching old posts and what I have come up with is just needing the following.


What I have come down to is needed the springs and adjustable panhard.
1. http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach-pro-springs-2011gtv6.html
2. http://www.americanmuscle.com/sr-adj-panhard-0514.html


So my questions would be...
1. Is this right and complete and fit?
2. This isn't going to give the bagged looked is it? Not my type. Just looking to get rid of the 4x4.




I have a '14 GT with AMR 20x8.5 255/35-20 (front) and 20x10 305/35-20 (back).

 

[Vert]

Some can get by without the camber bolts and some need them to get it aligned. I would add LCA relocation brackets you'll be giving up traction.

 

[Mach3011]

Some can get by without the camber bolts and some need them to get it aligned. I would add LCA relocation brackets you'll be giving up traction.

Would it make any sense to see how the alignment goes prior to camber bolts, or is it fairly certain most need them?

Is this what you are referring too for the brackets? http://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-lca-relocationbracket-0512.html

 

[djclark]

Get camber plates and some shocks/struts. Do it right the first time.

 

[Vert]

Would it make any sense to see how the alignment goes prior to camber bolts, or is it fairly certain most need them?

Is this what you are referring too for the brackets? http://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-lca-relocationbracket-0512.html

Yes that would be them. Are you trying lower it on a budget? If not, I would so shocks and struts along with new strut mounts.

 

[BMR Tech 2]

At a bare minimum you will want to have springs and an adjustable panhard bar. Depending on mileage and your goals for the car, it may be a good idea to do shocks and struts at the same time. If you plan on doing shocks sooner rather than later, you might as well just save yourself the time and effort, and just knock it all out at once. You should also consider picking up a set of lower control arm relocation brackets too. I suggest that you get a panhard bar with poly bushings instead of bearings. Bearing/bearing panhard bars tend to be VERY noisy.

If you have any questions about BMR products, let me know!

 

[gt5.0coyote]

Get camber plates and some shocks/struts. Do it right the first time.

This

 

[nate714]

The setup you're looking at sounds extremely budget. I would insist on getting camber bolts, they are like $25 for a pair and trust me you'll have a couple degrees negative camber without them.

The other suggestions for LCA brackets, shocks and struts, etc would be a must have for most of us, but if all you want to do it close that wheel gap, springs are basically the minimum. I know lots of people who do springs only and drive around with their rear end shifted to the left nearly an inch. Just depends on your priorities. I'd rather have everything aligned right because tires are expensive and with a staggered setup you can't fully rotate, so just ask yourself how often you want to replace those 255 fronts and 305 rears at odd intervals

Getting everything done right, and having a proper alignment and geometry, will save you money on tires later, and the car will feel better, launch better, etc.

 

[Mach3011]

The setup you're looking at sounds extremely budget. I would insist on getting camber bolts, they are like $25 for a pair and trust me you'll have a couple degrees negative camber without them.

The other suggestions for LCA brackets, shocks and struts, etc would be a must have for most of us, but if all you want to do it close that wheel gap, springs are basically the minimum. I know lots of people who do springs only and drive around with their rear end shifted to the left nearly an inch. Just depends on your priorities. I'd rather have everything aligned right because tires are expensive and with a staggered setup you can't fully rotate, so just ask yourself how often you want to replace those 255 fronts and 305 rears at odd intervals

Getting everything done right, and having a proper alignment and geometry, will save you money on tires later, and the car will feel better, launch better, etc.

Yeah, make sense, this is quite a budget approach. So adding the camber bolts seems to make sense along with the springs and panhard bar. I will look into the lca brackets, shocks, struts etc but I think its out of my budget/desire right now.

 

[nate714]

Fully understandable, shocks are expensive and when you start adding up every little piece it gets expensive quick. Those $25 bolts certainly won't break the bank though, especially compared to the next step up with caster/camber plates, which no doubt are superior, but they cost an arm and a leg.

The main reason to do everything at once is it saves time on labor. My brother and I set aside a couple days to do everything at once, and I had never worked on suspension prior to that. In order to swap springs you're taking out the struts anyway. If that's out of the budget for now, get the cheap bolts, an adjustable panhard, call it a day, you'll probably have some extra wheel hop and cornering slop without LCA and LCA brackets, but you'll have lowered your car at a reasonable price and run close enough to factory alignment for your tires to last a while.