are bandpass subwoofer boxes better?
- Thread starter blackfox
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No. Bandpass are more efficient and therefore don't need as much power as ported or sealed.
Power: sealed>ported>bandpass
IMO, bandpass are too "boomy." A properly powered sealed box makes the cleanest bass.
Power: sealed>ported>bandpass
IMO, bandpass are too "boomy." A properly powered sealed box makes the cleanest bass.
if you arent going very loud then they're ok, but they're very muddy in sound quality, i agree with ^^ sealed>ported>bandpass.
Bandpass is the easiest (doesn't need a lot of power) way to make big bass. However, I think it sounds the worst, compared to sealed or ported, at higher volume levels. All of this depends on the quality of components, of course. For example, a high quality driver in a bandpass box could sound better than a lousy driver in a sealed box.
The key is to properly match all components (amp, box, sub), regardless the type.
To answer your original question: No, bandpass boxes are not better. *Edit* Sealed is better than ported. Ported is better than bandpass. Generally speaking.
The key is to properly match all components (amp, box, sub), regardless the type.
To answer your original question: No, bandpass boxes are not better. *Edit* Sealed is better than ported. Ported is better than bandpass. Generally speaking.
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Why are they called bandpass? I thought you'd want everything less than, say 30Hz, to go to the sub. Band pass to me denotes filtering on the front end and the back end..kinda like from 5Hz to 30Hz.
I don't get it...
I don't get it...
"Bandpass" just refers to the box (enclosure) design. Bandpass boxes have the subwoofer drivers installed inside the box with ports to the exterior. Some have plexiglass to you can see the drivers. Sealed and ported boxes have the subwoofer drivers installed on the exterior of the box.
Box type is all about tuning the bass.
Hope this helps.
Box type is all about tuning the bass.
Hope this helps.
Thanks Cobradave, your info did help. Gotta love marketing hype.
I've always been a fan of sealed boxes with small (10" or 8") drivers. To me they sound more accurate if done properly. My home theater has the NHT Sub2. 500w amp and two 10" drivers in a sealed box.
I've always been a fan of sealed boxes with small (10" or 8") drivers. To me they sound more accurate if done properly. My home theater has the NHT Sub2. 500w amp and two 10" drivers in a sealed box.
I think that banpass boxes are designed to let only certain "bands" through, am I mistaken?
For Mustangs, the best configuration is to use the entire trunk. All you need is to build a sub platform that connects to the fold down seats. It should allow for 4" of space between the front of the driver (speaker driver that is) and the back of the seats.
The back of the speaker will then sit in the open "enclosure" with the magnet pointing towards the taillights.
KABOOM! :beer:
The back of the speaker will then sit in the open "enclosure" with the magnet pointing towards the taillights.
KABOOM! :beer:
Duh! I forgot to answer the question. Bandpass speakers are designed to boost low frequencies using a technique of overlapping similar frequencies in a smaller enclosure. This form of tuning is AOK, provided you take into consideration the room or vehicle it operates in.
Platinum's right, these sound great. But you'll need to get a driver specifically made for this application - they're called "Free Air" subwoofers.
Hmmm, instead of using good electronics for accurate reproduction they use the bass bumps of the box? Sounds a lot like Bose where you have to place certain speakers near corners to grab the 3db bump from each wall to get some bass. It works for some people I guess...
Here's an example of a 6th order bandpass sub versus vented sub.
EXAMPLE OVERVIEW:
A typical sub has an effective dropoff frequency of 50Hz all by its lonesome. For an example of a 50 Hz wave, right click and save as: http://www.philtulga.com/50Hz.wav
Most subs sound great below 50Hz, so there has to be a way to get those lower thumpety, thundering frequencies, right?
How do subs do it? It's called an enclosure. Enclosures trap the air and force it to amplify frequencies using simple acoustics (pressure, length, width, height, etc.). The larger the enclosure, typically the lower frequencies the speaker will produce.
THE VENTED ENCLOSURE:
Just about every sub needs some sort of enclosure. Since much of the bass comes from the back of the speaker, it's important to trap it and force it out of the box with as much power as possible.
So, we create a box that has certain dimensions. Those dimensions are dictated by the properties of the speaker. Add a hole/pipe (otherwise known as a port) and you'll be able to tune which low frequencies the enclosure will be "tuned" at.
This comes at a price, as many 12-15" speakers require 3-6 cubic feet of enclosure to produce these frequencies at volume levels that will shake the entire house or car.
A 5 cubic foot enclosure would pretty much take up the entire trunk of a typical car. That's not always the best idea, unless you have the room to do it. So now it's time to look at a different method.
BANDPASS SPEAKER ENCLOSURE:
The age old speaker setup with the woofer/subwoofer mounted to the outside edge of the enclosure works, and works well because the speaker is free to produce lots of sound pressure. But, if you want to use a smaller woofer or a smaller enclosure, you're going to have to mount the speaker somewhere inside the enclosure.
Voilla, the bandpass speaker is born. Because the speaker is mounted inside the enclosure, you're now able to control the frequencies coming out of the front and back of the woofer/subwoofer. You also port both "sides" of the inside of the enclosure to control what frequencies are going to be the loudest. Bose does this and it is quite effective if the speakers are used in small rooms.
The other benefit is because you are controlling the frequencies, you can also eliminate crossovers since you have control over both low and high frequencies of the speaker without using electronic crossovers.
Here's the drawback. Because the enclosures can be made smaller, or more "effective" in producing low frequencies, bandpass speakers are also more prone to the dimensions of the room or vehicle. Why? It's simply because the speaker is now using more of the listening area as part of the "overall enclosure", AND the "band" of frequencies (e.g. 50 Hz to 200 Hz) being controlled will shift based on the size of the room. So, a speaker that sounds great in a 5'x10'x12' room will sound too "boomy" in the back of a Mustang.
CONCLUSION:
It's very important to consider the dimensions of the listening area when you decide on the type of bandpass enclosure to use. Don't buy a humungous bandpass enclosure when a vented one will fit.
Hope this wasn't too forensic...:thumbsup:
EXAMPLE OVERVIEW:
A typical sub has an effective dropoff frequency of 50Hz all by its lonesome. For an example of a 50 Hz wave, right click and save as: http://www.philtulga.com/50Hz.wav
Most subs sound great below 50Hz, so there has to be a way to get those lower thumpety, thundering frequencies, right?
How do subs do it? It's called an enclosure. Enclosures trap the air and force it to amplify frequencies using simple acoustics (pressure, length, width, height, etc.). The larger the enclosure, typically the lower frequencies the speaker will produce.
THE VENTED ENCLOSURE:
Just about every sub needs some sort of enclosure. Since much of the bass comes from the back of the speaker, it's important to trap it and force it out of the box with as much power as possible.
So, we create a box that has certain dimensions. Those dimensions are dictated by the properties of the speaker. Add a hole/pipe (otherwise known as a port) and you'll be able to tune which low frequencies the enclosure will be "tuned" at.
This comes at a price, as many 12-15" speakers require 3-6 cubic feet of enclosure to produce these frequencies at volume levels that will shake the entire house or car.
A 5 cubic foot enclosure would pretty much take up the entire trunk of a typical car. That's not always the best idea, unless you have the room to do it. So now it's time to look at a different method.
BANDPASS SPEAKER ENCLOSURE:
The age old speaker setup with the woofer/subwoofer mounted to the outside edge of the enclosure works, and works well because the speaker is free to produce lots of sound pressure. But, if you want to use a smaller woofer or a smaller enclosure, you're going to have to mount the speaker somewhere inside the enclosure.
Voilla, the bandpass speaker is born. Because the speaker is mounted inside the enclosure, you're now able to control the frequencies coming out of the front and back of the woofer/subwoofer. You also port both "sides" of the inside of the enclosure to control what frequencies are going to be the loudest. Bose does this and it is quite effective if the speakers are used in small rooms.
The other benefit is because you are controlling the frequencies, you can also eliminate crossovers since you have control over both low and high frequencies of the speaker without using electronic crossovers.
Here's the drawback. Because the enclosures can be made smaller, or more "effective" in producing low frequencies, bandpass speakers are also more prone to the dimensions of the room or vehicle. Why? It's simply because the speaker is now using more of the listening area as part of the "overall enclosure", AND the "band" of frequencies (e.g. 50 Hz to 200 Hz) being controlled will shift based on the size of the room. So, a speaker that sounds great in a 5'x10'x12' room will sound too "boomy" in the back of a Mustang.
CONCLUSION:
It's very important to consider the dimensions of the listening area when you decide on the type of bandpass enclosure to use. Don't buy a humungous bandpass enclosure when a vented one will fit.
Hope this wasn't too forensic...:thumbsup:
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sikwitit36
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thankyou to all that put in info it helped me out alot.
what im actually thinking about doing is speakers. im gunna do a pioneer or kenwood component set, puttin the tweeter in the dash speaker mount (i have a 93 so theyre still in the dash) and putting 6 1/2's in the door panels, and 6 1/2x9's in the back and amping it with like a 60x4 or something of that sort
if anyone wants to give pointers on THIS project, let me know
thanks guys
what im actually thinking about doing is speakers. im gunna do a pioneer or kenwood component set, puttin the tweeter in the dash speaker mount (i have a 93 so theyre still in the dash) and putting 6 1/2's in the door panels, and 6 1/2x9's in the back and amping it with like a 60x4 or something of that sort
if anyone wants to give pointers on THIS project, let me know
thanks guys
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