Well then, you have found the problem. Let us know when you have fixed it.
bad tempt gauge
- Thread starter Snake Bitten
- Start date
Well I put in the new gauge and did what you said and when all done the needle stayed in the hot position with the glass off, I pushed the needle to cold and it went back to hot. The new gauge did not have the little resistor on the metal case as my original did.
I have never seen one without the resistor. I am guessing that's the problem. I will need to look into which years/models have the resistor and which ones don't.
I am sorry that I didn't know about that difference. The process should work with the correct gauge.
Sorry again.
I am sorry that I didn't know about that difference. The process should work with the correct gauge.
Sorry again.
No reason to be sorry and thanks for all of your help. Wonder if I could put the resister on the new gauge ? My cluster was played with by the previous owner I wonder if that gauge just needs to have the pot treatment ?
I wouldn't try putting the resistor on the new movement. It probably depends on the number of turns of wire on the two windings inside. You might be able to calibrate it at hot, but it may not be calibrated at all at the other temperatures.
Could you explain what you mean to calibrate it at hot ?
When you have the pot at 9.7 ohms, connect it in place of the sensor and put the needle on the gauge so that it points at the Hot mark with the key on, you are "calibrating" the gauge. This means you know that the gauge is pointing where it is supposed to when the sensor says it is Hot. You can only calibrate the needle at that one point. You have to assume that the gauge is relatively accurate at all of the lower points on the gauge.
If you have a gauge that works differently than the original gauge then it might be way off at the cooler temperatures. If you have one that works like the original, then you can assume that it will be relatively close to where it should be compared to the original gauge.
Since I don't know the differences between the gauges with and without the resistor, I don't know if they both work the same. It sounds like they don't.
Let me know if I haven't made this clear.
If you have a gauge that works differently than the original gauge then it might be way off at the cooler temperatures. If you have one that works like the original, then you can assume that it will be relatively close to where it should be compared to the original gauge.
Since I don't know the differences between the gauges with and without the resistor, I don't know if they both work the same. It sounds like they don't.
Let me know if I haven't made this clear.
After doing some research I found out that the temperature gauge for a 98 pins are swapped the signal and ground so you have to swap then could you tell me what color are the wires and I take it that they mean doing this on the harness?
This info is on Accutach Company website under Ford Cluster Information
That's my web site. 
You can't change the pins on the cluster, you have to change at the harness.
To use a 98 cluster in a 96 or 97 car, you swap the Red/White wire (Pin 14) with the adjacent Orange/Yellow wire Pin 15 on connector C250. Looking at the connectors from the driver's seat, C250 is on the left.
Here's how you de-pin the connector: http://www.accutach.com/general-how-tos/cluster-connector-re-pin
That would explain a non functional gauge.
You can't change the pins on the cluster, you have to change at the harness.
To use a 98 cluster in a 96 or 97 car, you swap the Red/White wire (Pin 14) with the adjacent Orange/Yellow wire Pin 15 on connector C250. Looking at the connectors from the driver's seat, C250 is on the left.
Here's how you de-pin the connector: http://www.accutach.com/general-how-tos/cluster-connector-re-pin
That would explain a non functional gauge.
I thought that was you. When I swap the fuel gauge and the anti slush does the fuel work fine without any other calibration?
Yes, it should work.
When the car is cold the needle is on C but when I start it up the needle goes to the normal right away
Which cluster are you talking about now? What year is the car? What year is the Cobra Cluster? What year is the donor cluster? And is this after you have swapped the two pins on the cluster connector? I am getting confused as to what your situation is at this point.
I'm using my 96 Cobra cluster with a temperature and fuel gauge plus the anti slush from a 98 120MPH cluster
You are making me suspect that there is some difference between the temp gauges in the 98 clusters and the ones in the older clusters...
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