Bad Throttle Body?

Bullitt 3309

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So today I made my first road trip since installing the CJ Intake, MonoBlade TB and FRPP CAI. I think I have a bad CJ Mono Blade TB. Today after a 150 mile drive when I pulled off the hiway, the throttle wouldnt respond to me pushing it down and it threw the wrench light and went into limp mode. I shut it off opened hood to see anything obvious. Saw nothing, and turned key on, hooked up SCT scanner I had in car to read code. Didnt read anything, started it up and no more wrench light. It did idle odd. I tried to see if it would drive, went fine then did it again 2 miles later. I pulled over turned off engine, restarted no code no light. I went ahead and did a KAM reset to see if that would do anything. But didn't help and it did it again a few miles later. At this point I dont know what to do and have to get back home 150 miles away.
I disconnected the battery to reset computer and headed home. I found that if I didn't use a lot of throttle I could hold a steady speed between 2 and 3k rpm. On the 150 mile drive back it did it three more times when I had to accelerate past slower traffic. It did finally throw a code, P2112 Throttle Actuator Ctrl Sys-Stuck Closed .
I reset code and went on my way. Made it home and removed the throttle body. What can I do to ensure its the TB and not in the Cobra Jet harness. The throttle body was bought used so it could have been going bad. I have also felt a "dead" spot in the throttle from 1000 to 3000 RPM. I am looking at replacing it with the 65mm Twin CJ TB since I am using the FRPP CAI and the Mono blade is probably overkill. I also adjusted the TPS Voltage to 1.23, reset computer. It still does the same thing? Any Ideas?
 

mebcop

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I would use livelink and do a key on car off log and compare your physical throttle input to the throttle position actual and throttle position voltage and see where it is losing it's consistency.
 
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lenny127

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I put mine in today and same shit . Bought it new from Weir Racing in March but been installing other shit like RST and MGW race spec . He tells me ford don't swap FRPP parts so I basically paid 500 bucks for a paper weight . Should l try that DORMAN actuator see if it works ?
 

Bullitt 3309

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Weir Racing is lying to you. Do you have proof of sale? I called FRPP directly when I had my issue and they would have swapped it if I had bought it new. If you have a receipt, call FRPP. The Dorman kit may or may not work. Call FRPP first.
 

lenny127

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i ordered one from tasca on a 2 day , they do have an exchange policy. I'll deal with weir racing later, this is my daily driver although i have a spare car so getting this ****er up and running is paramount to me , also i have a dyno tune appt at aed saturday so i want to make that.

went out for a drive early this morning and it was flawless, for 30 miles then i come to a light and idle jumps to 1200 + on its own and then the rpm wont drop between shifts, it starts hunting on its own at idle but way above normal.... **** this tb .... ill see if the tasca one works and then ill get back to mr weir...... i mean give me a ****ing break , i never used it from the day i bought it new in march .....


i am curious as to why it does seem that temps affect it greatly , this morning it was 74 ... it made it 30 miles... yesterday it was 91 and after 1 mile it took a shit.... also the tb got scorching hot yesterday and today it was barely warm .... 15 degrees of outside temp cannot possibly make it that much hotter to the touch ... anyways , wish me luck .... i just want to wrap up this car .

i made a thread just to learn i guess. unbelievable some vendors , im not a kid im 42 so i am not going to just go away


http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?1085478-Monoblade-issues&highlight=
 

Jumpmaster2015

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I had the exact same problem when I installed my CJ (including wrench light). The problem was in the wiring work that I did at the harness. Two of the pins were not fully seated into the new connector, they make an obvious clicking sound when they seat. Check double check and triple check those new connections. I would do everything I can to rule out a bad TB. Throttle does its job without an issue after I corrected my work.
 
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lenny127

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I did , not only for color coding but for height of the pins . I am super thorough and always triple check my work . Also my issue isn't off and on , it start good and when it gets enough heat it starts acting up . I'll post when I figure out wtf
 

Arena

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Did you ever get this issue sorted out?Im having the same problem with my '06 except now it won't come out of limp,it has a kb 2.6 with a mammoth inlet and a lmr twin 78 mm tb,the actuator motor gets scalding hot after running for a few minutes.Tuner thought it might be pcm but it wasn't .Im getting pretty frustrated with this deal any insight would be appreciated .
 

dj050894

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I am having the same issue with my 11 after installing the CJ intake. Getting code P2112 and going into Limp Mode. Ford Racing is telling me that its the tune, and Bama is telling me that its the wiring harness or throttle body. I cut the connectors and spliced the harness into the ECU, so I think everything is good there. which leaves me whith either a bad TB, a bad TPS, or a bad tune, and ideas?
 

oldbones

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I am having the same issue with my 11 after installing the CJ intake. Getting code P2112 and going into Limp Mode. Ford Racing is telling me that its the tune, and Bama is telling me that its the wiring harness or throttle body. I cut the connectors and spliced the harness into the ECU, so I think everything is good there. which leaves me whith either a bad TB, a bad TPS, or a bad tune, and ideas?

Call accufab, they make the mono TB for Ford and will warranty it or charge you a small fee.
 

Bullitt 3309

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I am having the same issue with my 11 after installing the CJ intake. Getting code P2112 and going into Limp Mode. Ford Racing is telling me that its the tune, and Bama is telling me that its the wiring harness or throttle body. I cut the connectors and spliced the harness into the ECU, so I think everything is good there. which leaves me whith either a bad TB, a bad TPS, or a bad tune, and ideas?

Did you follow the instructions from the CJ install on the bolded part? I did not "Cut" anything, just repinned the included connector. I did not get any codes either when my TB went bad. I bought a new one and no more problems. I also had a nice conversation with Accufab as well and he offered to repair it, but I need to be up and running. I ended up getting a partial refund from original seller as well and sent it back to him.
 

dj050894

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Did you follow the instructions from the CJ install on the bolded part? I did not "Cut" anything, just repinned the included connector. I did not get any codes either when my TB went bad. I bought a new one and no more problems. I also had a nice conversation with Accufab as well and he offered to repair it, but I need to be up and running. I ended up getting a partial refund from original seller as well and sent it back to him.

I followed all the instructions on the install, but I could not get the pins to sit right in the provided connector, thats when I decided to cut everything and splice. Bama is telling me to go buy a connector and do it that way, they are convinced thats where the issue is.
 

dj050894

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I would take a picture of the splice and compare it to the CJ instructions and then reengage BAMA

I sent them a picture earlier today, they are convinced that's the problem, I still am not. I'm going to humor them and redo the connection for the third time tonight and get back with them in the morning.
 

KushBandit

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Had the same issue with a frpp 65mm twin TBMM before.
Returned it to the shop. Bought a vmp 67mm.

I had this same exact issue. It was fixed by sending my unit to the manufacturer, Accufab, who recalibrated it free of charge. P2112 is triggered when the throttle blade is off calibration by 6° or less. That's what a Ford engineer told me when I was diagnosing my issue.
 
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