Battery relocation

[OSUALUM78]

So I'm going to reduce the nose heaviness of this car and want to move the battery to the trunk. I plan on changing to a dry cell. Low weight not so important since I'm relocating.

My questions are:

Any recommended brands? Optima red top? My car stays garaged in the winter for the most part OEM stereo, but I'll probably be looking at 800 CCA

Do I need to vent it? I was under the impression I don't, but then I found this from another forum:

".......Usually, when you are putting a battery in the trunk, size doesn't matter as far as fitment goes. You just need to be sure and get the proper mounting device that fits your application. Also, it is important to use a battery that has provisions for venting since your plans are to mount in the trunk, a non-vented area. Our Group 27, 51, 78, 34C & 31 batteries all have provisions for external venting. Once you locate exactly where you are planning to mount it, and the space you have to work with, simply choose the correct battery group for your application......

Bill Howell
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc."


While my car is a street car, it does see trips down the dragstrip and at my local twisty track (non competitive and non professional). Do I NEED to install a kill switch too? I know it may be a good idea, but is it a NEED as when I tech in and they realize my battery is in the trunk, I will not be allowed to run without a kill switch?

Thanks
:beer:

 

[Anabolic]

IMO optima redtop IS the best.
Would get a battery box & relocation kit and call it a day.

 

[OSUALUM78]

IMO optima redtop IS the best.

I've had a red top in a previous Mustang with no issues (it was even a DD in below freezing winter temps), but I know some are anti-Optima. I'm sure it could get down to a Glock vs. Springfield Armory type debate, but I really need to know about if venting and a battery kill is needed. I was under the impression that since I don't competitive or pro race (drag or twisty) and since it is a dry cell, neither is needed....

 

[Anabolic]

You probably should put a kill switch somewhere in the area, but you don't need to vent an optima

 

[OSUALUM78]

Any ideas for a kill switch that doesn't permanently alter the exterior and is easily accessible? i.e I don't want to roll around looking like a drag car...

 

[racecougar]

Yes, in order to pass tech you'll need a kill switch and either a rear firewall or a sealed box.

NHRA Rules

8.1 BATTERIES

All batteries must be securely mounted and may not be relocated into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-inch (.6 mm) steel or .032-inch (.8 mm) aluminum (including package tray) required when battery is re-located in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery may be located in a sealed .024-inch (.6 mm) or .032-inch (.8 mm) aluminum, or FIA accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure battery, and must be vented outside of body. Strapping tape prohibited. A maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds (68 kg) combined maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class Requirements) is permitted. Metal battery hold-down straps mandatory. Hold-down bolts must be minimum 3/8-inch (9.53 mm) if battery is relocated from stock and other than stock hold-downs are used ("J" hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.).

8.4 MASTER CUTOFF

Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The external control switch for this cutoff switch will be clearly indicated by a red flash inside a white-edged blue triangle with a base of at least 12 cm (see drawing 25). The positions must be clearly indicated with the word "OFF". If switch is "push/pull" type, push must be the action for shutting off the electrical system, pull to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch (3.2 mm) diameter. Plastic or keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be located behind rear wheels on rear engine dragsters.

Here are pics of the setup in my XR7.

When running on the street (kill switch is on the right, next to the methanol tank):

When I go to the track, I swap the passenger taillight out for one with a hole through it, and install the pusher assembly on the switch.

The car also has a NHRA-legal aluminum rear firewall and package shelf (since I'm not running a sealed battery box), and the subs are removed for runs at the track as well. I used 2/0 fine-strand welding cable for the positive lead to the starter and for the main ground.

 

[OSUALUM78]

Examining kill switches, not fond of rod push/pull style as it requires modification to some part to employ this method. Not fond of swapping tailights for this purpose either. I want a discreet permanent kill switch.

Is it possible to mount a knob style kill switch thru on of the license plate holes? Would have to run wiring along trunk arms and mount the switch to the backside of the trunk lid. Has anyone ever done this?

 

[racecougar]

Is it possible to mount a knob style kill switch thru on of the license plate holes? Would have to run wiring along trunk arms and mount the switch to the backside of the trunk lid. Has anyone ever done this?

Numerous times. Here are five examples from just one thread over at MM.

Battery Disconnect Switch - Page 2
Battery Disconnect Switch - Page 2
Battery Disconnect Switch - Page 3
Battery Disconnect Switch - Page 4
Battery Disconnect Switch - Page 4

 

[OSUALUM78]

Snap. Very helpful! Thanks!

I don't see any that use the license plate mount holes though? This not possible? I was wanting to use the bottom passenger side hole and "on" is the knob turned in parallel with my plate frame (not noticeable unless really inspected) then turn down for "off" (will see knob handle which would be perpendicular to plate frame)... then painted on plate frame would be OFF in red, but it would only be visible when it is turned off. Turned on knob lever cover the OFF paint...

 

[racecougar]

The diameter of the hole necessary for the switch is a heck of a lot larger than the screws attaching the license plate to the trunk lid.

 

[OSUALUM78]

The diameter of the hole necessary for the switch is a heck of a lot larger than the screws attaching the license plate to the trunk lid.

I understand that and am prepared to drill it bigger to accommodate. I just don't want it left or right of the plate in the dead area so it is easily visible for anyone to mess with. My car is still street driven....

 

[OSUALUM78]

The diameter of the hole necessary for the switch is a heck of a lot larger than the screws attaching the license plate to the trunk lid.

I understand that and am prepared to drill it bigger to accommodate. I just don't want it left or right of the plate in the dead area so it is easily visible for anyone to mess with. My car is still street driven....

 

[OSUALUM78]

Can't figure out how to delete the double post. I'm on my phone. Sorry for it.

 

[10sec89]

Could always drill right in middle behind the plate then just use spacers to shim the plate out. Remove the plate all together to be legal at the track.

 

[Anabolic]

you should have the bumper kill switch in reality, But they have those post kill switches you just turn like you would an AC knob. you can put right on the battery post, this is if the batter isnt in a closed box. THERE'S alot that makes a difference lol

 

[Anabolic]

I understand that and am prepared to drill it bigger to accommodate. I just don't want it left or right of the plate in the dead area so it is easily visible for anyone to mess with. My car is still street driven....

with all due respect. Anyone that has knowledge of what that is wont have respect issues to mess with it.

the ones who don't know will probably think it's a light or some shit.

external disconnects don't cramp style broski :beer:

 

[racecougar]

This:

Any ideas for a kill switch that doesn't permanently alter the exterior...

and this:

My car is still street driven....

is exactly why I went with the rod through the taillight setup. If you're willing to drill a hole through the trunklid, then 10sec89's setup looks to be the way to go.

But they have those post kill switches you just turn like you would an AC knob. you can put right on the battery post, this is if the batter isnt in a closed box.

That won't pass NHRA tech.

 

[OSUALUM78]

For those that helped and are interested, see my thread here (that leads you to a link of two pics) on the route I'm going for my kill switch

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-talk-229/942188-i-need-help-finding-thread.html