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The Terminator
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Bearing/Ring Options
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<blockquote data-quote="oldmodman" data-source="post: 14735846" data-attributes="member: 10303"><p>The main bearings that you mentioned are the ones I would go with too.</p><p>Why not stick with them for the rods?</p><p>For rings in a high boost engine (over 15psi) stick with tool steel top ring-chromed from Total Seal</p><p>Napier second ring.</p><p>Low tension oil ring.</p><p>If you have a choice go with tool steel pins with 220 wall thickness. Super finished if available.</p><p>With a combination like that you don't have to worry even if go over 1000hp with twins.</p><p></p><p>If you are going with a "big blower" you might want to head off any future problems by tossing the balancer bolt and go with an ARP stud. You would have to get the crank drilled for it, and tapped too. It would be drilled all the way down to the first oil cross passage in the crank.</p><p></p><p>Here is a great discussion of the bigger, longer stud process that can save the snout from breaking off with a huge blower and no factory front cage to support the weak end of the crank.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.modularfords.com/threads/205306-Stock-lower-pulley-cage-with-crank-anchor-stud-mod?highlight=ARP+stud+drilled+crankshaft" target="_blank">http://www.modularfords.com/threads/205306-Stock-lower-pulley-cage-with-crank-anchor-stud-mod?highlight=ARP+stud+drilled+crankshaft</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="oldmodman, post: 14735846, member: 10303"] The main bearings that you mentioned are the ones I would go with too. Why not stick with them for the rods? For rings in a high boost engine (over 15psi) stick with tool steel top ring-chromed from Total Seal Napier second ring. Low tension oil ring. If you have a choice go with tool steel pins with 220 wall thickness. Super finished if available. With a combination like that you don't have to worry even if go over 1000hp with twins. If you are going with a "big blower" you might want to head off any future problems by tossing the balancer bolt and go with an ARP stud. You would have to get the crank drilled for it, and tapped too. It would be drilled all the way down to the first oil cross passage in the crank. Here is a great discussion of the bigger, longer stud process that can save the snout from breaking off with a huge blower and no factory front cage to support the weak end of the crank. [url]http://www.modularfords.com/threads/205306-Stock-lower-pulley-cage-with-crank-anchor-stud-mod?highlight=ARP+stud+drilled+crankshaft[/url] [/QUOTE]
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