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2011-2014 Mustangs
Driveline/Suspension
best 1 piece driveshaft
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<blockquote data-quote="MKMotorsport" data-source="post: 15224164" data-attributes="member: 155067"><p>^^This.</p><p></p><p></p><p>I originally typed out this response to the butt-hurt guy so it reads like that, but while I was typing, this guy nailed it more eloquently than my spew :lol: I'm going to post it anyway since I spent the time to type it:</p><p></p><p>I kinda felt the same since I had a DSS shaft sitting here and it does look like a nice piece. The same thought you just typed out flashed through my head; "internet know-it alls hating on something". I've been into cars and hardcore 4x4's for a couple decades (going 30 years), this is not my first rodeo so to speak. CV's are shied away from on the 4x4 side especially, just not sure how any CV can reliably hold what they claim especially when you add in sticky tires and aggressive launches. On the other hand spicer 1350 series u-joints are highly regarded in all circles. Both the Dynotech and shaftmaster make use of 1350 joints on both ends. My older fox-body has a custom 414x cro-moly shaft with 1350's made by a local driveline shop, back in the early 90's it was ~$300, HUGE bucks for a Fox-Body driveshaft back then. Like someone said no aftermarket part is sure fire, it may end up coming down to service. On that end multiple reports seem to indicate DSS being less than optimal/non existent (where are they in this thread for example??) On the other hand there is at least one other vendor here bending backwards to address perceived issues with their product. That same vendor answered a PM I sent late last night @ 4am this morning!! That is amazing response time no matter how you cut it. A driveshaft should almost be a car-life type item, not something you unbolt and toss after a few years. It would make me ill to have the CV clicking like that (that's what POS FWD cars do when you beat the hell out of them, their front CV's start clicking, the next thing is they physically separate!) after 2-3 years or 25-30k miles, that is completely unacceptable. Among other things my vehicle is stock ride height and will stay that way, I have no need for the perceived "benefit" of the CV being able to run at more angle (that isn't true anyway... google Tom Woods Driveshafts, he is a driveline expert on the 4x4 side; he has a great informational page).</p><p></p><p></p><p>Instead of "hating" on the haters (they aren't in most cases anyway, simply relaying their experience), I choose to use their advice to my advantage and also with a huge grain of salt, rather than stick my head in the sand and pretend there is no problem. The CV they are using/and/or the fact it isn't greasable is the problem, not DSS in general. I would have loved nothing more than to have kept my DSS, bolted it in and been done, but then I'd have always felt there was a monkey on my back with the CV issues shown here (and also examples not posted by any members here...). A $700 paperweight after two years of use, or a $1400 one! the CF unit (unless someone can show that CV is different/stronger than the one on the aluminum version; ahem calling DSS??) is not something I can afford in any way, shape, or form. Then to be jacked around on the service end if/when that comes up....uhhhhh...no thanks.... For my purposes I'm either going to go with the Dynotech or Shaftmaster. The Dana piece looks nice too and has all the same specs; same tubing, same u-joints, etc.... Maybe if your car is lowered, the CV holds more value? Really the CV is probably a band-aid (imho), when you lower your car, you should have enough adjustment in other components to bring the pinion angle back into line if you lowered your car "correctly"</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MKMotorsport, post: 15224164, member: 155067"] ^^This. I originally typed out this response to the butt-hurt guy so it reads like that, but while I was typing, this guy nailed it more eloquently than my spew :lol: I'm going to post it anyway since I spent the time to type it: I kinda felt the same since I had a DSS shaft sitting here and it does look like a nice piece. The same thought you just typed out flashed through my head; "internet know-it alls hating on something". I've been into cars and hardcore 4x4's for a couple decades (going 30 years), this is not my first rodeo so to speak. CV's are shied away from on the 4x4 side especially, just not sure how any CV can reliably hold what they claim especially when you add in sticky tires and aggressive launches. On the other hand spicer 1350 series u-joints are highly regarded in all circles. Both the Dynotech and shaftmaster make use of 1350 joints on both ends. My older fox-body has a custom 414x cro-moly shaft with 1350's made by a local driveline shop, back in the early 90's it was ~$300, HUGE bucks for a Fox-Body driveshaft back then. Like someone said no aftermarket part is sure fire, it may end up coming down to service. On that end multiple reports seem to indicate DSS being less than optimal/non existent (where are they in this thread for example??) On the other hand there is at least one other vendor here bending backwards to address perceived issues with their product. That same vendor answered a PM I sent late last night @ 4am this morning!! That is amazing response time no matter how you cut it. A driveshaft should almost be a car-life type item, not something you unbolt and toss after a few years. It would make me ill to have the CV clicking like that (that's what POS FWD cars do when you beat the hell out of them, their front CV's start clicking, the next thing is they physically separate!) after 2-3 years or 25-30k miles, that is completely unacceptable. Among other things my vehicle is stock ride height and will stay that way, I have no need for the perceived "benefit" of the CV being able to run at more angle (that isn't true anyway... google Tom Woods Driveshafts, he is a driveline expert on the 4x4 side; he has a great informational page). Instead of "hating" on the haters (they aren't in most cases anyway, simply relaying their experience), I choose to use their advice to my advantage and also with a huge grain of salt, rather than stick my head in the sand and pretend there is no problem. The CV they are using/and/or the fact it isn't greasable is the problem, not DSS in general. I would have loved nothing more than to have kept my DSS, bolted it in and been done, but then I'd have always felt there was a monkey on my back with the CV issues shown here (and also examples not posted by any members here...). A $700 paperweight after two years of use, or a $1400 one! the CF unit (unless someone can show that CV is different/stronger than the one on the aluminum version; ahem calling DSS??) is not something I can afford in any way, shape, or form. Then to be jacked around on the service end if/when that comes up....uhhhhh...no thanks.... For my purposes I'm either going to go with the Dynotech or Shaftmaster. The Dana piece looks nice too and has all the same specs; same tubing, same u-joints, etc.... Maybe if your car is lowered, the CV holds more value? Really the CV is probably a band-aid (imho), when you lower your car, you should have enough adjustment in other components to bring the pinion angle back into line if you lowered your car "correctly" [/QUOTE]
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best 1 piece driveshaft
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