Best Combo: Basic Bolt-On's

[JPIStang]

OK, I've seen the worst bang for buck thread, best bang for buck thread, but I can't really find a best combo thread.

What I really want to know is what kind of power can be had without touching the pulley, blower, engine internals, or adding a shot of nitrous.

My current plan (for power):
Intake (probably JLT), Magnaflow cat-back, Magnaflow catted X (not sure if the GT one works on the Cobra or not-if not I'll probably throw on the PC), and SCT2 Dyno tune.

I'm hoping that puts me somewhere in the 400's.
Is it possible to get past the 500rwhp mark on the stock pully w/o porting the blower or adding a shot?

 

[pj_rage]

OK, I've seen the worst bang for buck thread, best bang for buck thread, but I can't really find a best combo thread.

What I really want to know is what kind of power can be had without touching the pulley, blower, engine internals, or adding a shot of nitrous.

My current plan (for power):
Intake (probably JLT), Magnaflow cat-back, Magnaflow catted X (not sure if the GT one works on the Cobra or not-if not I'll probably throw on the PC), and SCT2 Dyno tune.

I'm hoping that puts me somewhere in the 400's.
Is it possible to get past the 500rwhp mark on the stock pully w/o porting the blower or adding a shot?

Why not pulley and port? That will get you there and relatively inexepensively I might add.

 

[50 BMG]

What I really want to know is what kind of power can be had without touching the pulley, blower, engine internals, or adding a shot of nitrous.

This makes no sense but here goes. Max power upgrades: JLT CAI, billetflow throttle body and plenum, Stainless works full exhaust no cats, Evans cooling kit, Gords or Extreme H/E, LDC head cooling mod. Thats about all you can do to add power within your parameters.

My current plan (for power):
Intake (probably JLT), Magnaflow cat-back, Magnaflow catted X (not sure if the GT one works on the Cobra or not-if not I'll probably throw on the PC), and SCT2 Dyno tune.

Should get you to 420 rwhp, depending on your tune.

Is it possible to get past the 500rwhp mark on the stock pully w/o porting the blower or adding a shot?

Just when you think you've seen it all...

In addition to mods I listed above:buy a KB and put your stock pulley on it :idea:, stage 3 cams, ferrara valve kit, port heads, 324 stroker. It'll cost you about 20 grand.

Or you -could- just port the blower/plenum & t/b for $760 including shipping (it dissipates heat anyways), run a 2.93 ($95 new) with full bolt-ons (CAI=$200, Cat back = $400, SCT tune ($400) and make 500 whp easy. And it won't cost but 2 grand if you do it on your own.

 

[JPIStang]

Why not pulley and port? That will get you there and relatively inexepensively I might add.

Well that's obviously an option but a little more opposed to the factory warranty. haha

This makes no sense but here goes. Max power upgrades: JLT CAI, billetflow throttle body and plenum, Stainless works full exhaust no cats, Evans cooling kit, Gords or Extreme H/E, LDC head cooling mod. Thats about all you can do to add power within your parameters.

Not familiar with the billetflow tb/plenum but I've heard of billetflow so I'll look that up. Stainless works I haven't heard of. I already have the catted magnaflow x pipe as well as the PC, but I suppose I could sell both and that'd cover the cost of the exhaust.

Is the LDC cooling mod the T fitting with a 2nd hose to connect to the plug on the back of the drivers side head? If so, wouldn't that be a pretty good time to do headers?

Should get you to 420 rwhp, depending on your tune.

:coolman:

Just when you think you've seen it all...

In addition to mods I listed above:buy a KB and put your stock pulley on it :idea:, stage 3 cams, ferrara valve kit, port heads, 324 stroker. It'll cost you about 20 grand.

LOL

Or you -could- just port the blower/plenum & t/b for $760 including shipping (it dissipates heat anyways), run a 2.93 ($95 new) with full bolt-ons (CAI=$200, Cat back = $400, SCT tune ($400) and make 500 whp easy. And it won't cost but 2 grand if you do it on your own.

Now that seems pretty reasonable. The reason I listed those limitations because the mods I listed stay within the factory warranty pretty well. Except for the chip of course, but flash back to factory and you're good to go. Though nobody seems to know whether the computer keeps track of when the memory was flashed/reflashed and if it does, does the service dept. even bother checking that.

I'm also not completely about "getting the most power, no matter what". I just bumped up from 260 (with 4.10's), I'm not made out of money, and can't afford to be without a car for much time.

Thanks for the advice!

-Jon

 

[flyn high again]

Don't forget about 4.10 gears. Your rear end warranty will be iffy but the motor warranty should be OK. Just for comparison, with my 427rwhp/379tq and 4.10 gears, I ran a stage 3 cammed Terminator from a 30 mph roll and he couldn't pass me.

You need to remove the trans to put our LDC Chicago cooling mod on so it's a good combo install with clutch/ TOB/ or input shaft. You don't need to pull the trans to install headers. Headers are a PITA install by the way.

BilletFlow is a great place to buy Cobra parts. The differential brace is a MUST HAVE mod in my opinion.

 

[50 BMG]

Jon-

Now I guess it makes more sense...forgot about the warranty thing :idea:

If your modding while trying to keep a factory warranty, I wouldn't go past CAI and Cat back. I've heard some people getting away with flash tunes but thats a gamble if your concerned with getting denied/having your cars VIN wind up in OASIS. Another thing that would work is having the stock eaton, t/b, plenum ported. IMO thats the most "stealth" power adding mod you can do, you won't be able to tell by sight (or sound) unless you take the parts off the car and inspect them. Porting all 3 and leaving the stock pulley on the car will gain you about 50 hp if I'm not mistaken :??:

If/when you do the LDC cooling mod (I highly suggest it), it would be a great, and probably the best, time to do headers too. And I'd lmao if Ford voided a warranty with the LDC mod on oke:

Don't worry about Stainless Works exhaust, I was just saying for max power upgrades use what was in that list. You can use your maggie stuff, just look for a header like Bassani, MAC, JBA etc that will fit your asthetic exhuast needs.

 

[ShelbyGuy]

your tune would void the warranty. might as well pulley.

(if you have an 03 and havent driven through your warranty already, you dont drive the car enough)

pick a power level between 400 and 500hp. you can get there with bolt-ons.

 

[JPIStang]

your tune would void the warranty. might as well pulley.

(if you have an 03 and havent driven through your warranty already, you dont drive the car enough)

pick a power level between 400 and 500hp. you can get there with bolt-ons.

So if I get an SCT2 re-flash, and flash it back to the stock program if I need to take it in for warranty work, they can tell?

I have an '04 Redfire 'Vert that I just picked up with 3200 miles on the ODO. I've had it since the 2nd.

 

[JPIStang]

Don't forget about 4.10 gears. Your rear end warranty will be iffy but the motor warranty should be OK. Just for comparison, with my 427rwhp/379tq and 4.10 gears, I ran a stage 3 cammed Terminator from a 30 mph roll and he couldn't pass me.

You need to remove the trans to put our LDC Chicago cooling mod on so it's a good combo install with clutch/ TOB/ or input shaft. You don't need to pull the trans to install headers. Headers are a PITA install by the way.

BilletFlow is a great place to buy Cobra parts. The differential brace is a MUST HAVE mod in my opinion.

Yeah I'm going to get the diff. brace from them, actually. See what bushings I can replace at the same time. LOL

Well I figure if you put in 4.10's, there's nothing in the rear that's going to be covered anyways. And if you kill a halfshaft with gears I think that's a pretty obvious thing for Ford to deny.

Headers ARE easier to install with the engine out, though I know it can be done with the engine in the car, though being a HUGE PITA!

Jon-

Now I guess it makes more sense...forgot about the warranty thing :idea:

If your modding while trying to keep a factory warranty, I wouldn't go past CAI and Cat back. I've heard some people getting away with flash tunes but thats a gamble if your concerned with getting denied/having your cars VIN wind up in OASIS. Another thing that would work is having the stock eaton, t/b, plenum ported. IMO thats the most "stealth" power adding mod you can do, you won't be able to tell by sight (or sound) unless you take the parts off the car and inspect them. Porting all 3 and leaving the stock pulley on the car will gain you about 50 hp if I'm not mistaken :??:

If/when you do the LDC cooling mod (I highly suggest it), it would be a great, and probably the best, time to do headers too. And I'd lmao if Ford voided a warranty with the LDC mod on oke:

Don't worry about Stainless Works exhaust, I was just saying for max power upgrades use what was in that list. You can use your maggie stuff, just look for a header like Bassani, MAC, JBA etc that will fit your asthetic exhuast needs.

Yeah, I'm a huge fan of Mustangs but I'll be the first to admit I'm not a die hard drag/road racer and modify partially for the fun of it but mainly for better street performance. I certainly won't be dragging this car, not without spending some serious money on the rear to beef up the halfshafts and eliminate wheelhop.

Porting might be a serious option for me. If you consider it, it's kind of hard for them to give you an issue with the engine just because it breathes better. I suppose it could be argued that the increased power killed your tranny/clutch/diff/halfshafts though.

That sucks about the tune. What was being discussed with people I know was how much they can tell about you flashing the computer. Does the computer make a note somewhere that the program has been flashed, and how much info is recorded. If they can tell it was flashed AND tell WHEN it was flashed you're pretty much screwed.

Yeah the LDC cooling mod can only help the engine, not hurt it. lol Well, unless you forget to hook the hose up and drain the coolant. haha

I see the difference in the exhaust with the Stainless works being 3" diameter. There's a guy on Mustangworld selling a mid pipe/catback combo for $1200 from Stainless works.

 

[50 BMG]

I see the difference in the exhaust with the Stainless works being 3" diameter. There's a guy on Mustangworld selling a mid pipe/catback combo for $1200 from Stainless works.

If you get Stainless Works get it from Extreme Motorsports. Starting from $1650 for the entire kit, headers to tips. Otherwise (if I was you anyways) I'd research what you can do with say...Bassani headers with the maggie parts you already have.

http://www.xmsengineering.com/exhaust/

 

[NOMANIAC3]

20 Grand For A 324 Stroker

 

[ShelbyGuy]

its debatable whether or not they can tell. my guess is they can, but have to jump through hoops to do it.

i see it this way: how many lies can you tell people and still look at yourself in the mirror in the morning? "oh no, sir! i never modified the car...."

So if I get an SCT2 re-flash, and flash it back to the stock program if I need to take it in for warranty work, they can tell?

I have an '04 Redfire 'Vert that I just picked up with 3200 miles on the ODO. I've had it since the 2nd.

 

[I-CAN-STANG]

I''ve heard from a very reputable tuner that the dealer cannot tell a flash but they'll surely know the vehicle was chipped!

 

[50 BMG]

20 Grand For A 324 Stroker

20 grand for a top tier 324 stroker with a 2.4 KB and all the proper supporting mods...yea it's about that much if you do it all on your own.

 

[JPIStang]

I''ve heard from a very reputable tuner that the dealer cannot tell a flash but they'll surely know the vehicle was chipped!

:rockon:

 

[JPIStang]

20 Grand For A 324 Stroker

Now if I wanted to do that I'd have kept the GT!!!! hahaha (Mustang GT that is, not Ford GT haha)