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SVT Shelby GT500
Best looking wheels on Red Shelby With White Stripes
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<blockquote data-quote="Robert M" data-source="post: 10499768" data-attributes="member: 9628"><p>Ok, that helps. Most of the guys who are doing anything 315 and larger are going out to 11.75-12 on the rim to achieve a flatter sidewall. They are also articulating their axle, fully compressed on one side while hanging down on the other during and after the install to verify that when they drive their car, there will be no unexpected contact in "some" driving situations. A 11.50+ rim will hit the bumpstop bracket when the wheel is extended, there is no way around that unless you choose to have some inner fender well cutting and welding, or of course cut the bracket itself as most do. Fitting a 335 on any rim without sticking out is not possible that I know of. I currently have 335's on 12" Alcoas, and there is no room inward at all, and they do stick out a little, but not much, not any more than the 275's that were originally on my Super Snake. They just have the meaty tire look that you would find on most any of these cars who's owner is attempting to cram the most tire possible on the rear without looking "too big". Too big being the flat tread surface itself sticking out past the fender well edge. To my knowledge, the "actual tire bulge" past the fender well edge has always been acceptable in the muscle car world, "flat tire tread surface and bulge" sticking out past the fender lip..........not so acceptable.</p><p></p><p>The guys who have chosen the 315 R888 and the 11.75" Alcoa widening option have found that the sidewall bulge and fender well lip are the same when mounted. When comparing the specs on the 315 R888 and the 325 Dunlop Sport Maxx GT, the only difference is a overall diameter of .1.........It is the 335 bulge on a 11.75 or 12 that goes just a little past the fender lip. </p><p></p><p>I would like to see some pictures of the 345's that I see talked about. Do they stick out past the fender lip?</p><p></p><p></p><p>R</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Robert M, post: 10499768, member: 9628"] Ok, that helps. Most of the guys who are doing anything 315 and larger are going out to 11.75-12 on the rim to achieve a flatter sidewall. They are also articulating their axle, fully compressed on one side while hanging down on the other during and after the install to verify that when they drive their car, there will be no unexpected contact in "some" driving situations. A 11.50+ rim will hit the bumpstop bracket when the wheel is extended, there is no way around that unless you choose to have some inner fender well cutting and welding, or of course cut the bracket itself as most do. Fitting a 335 on any rim without sticking out is not possible that I know of. I currently have 335's on 12" Alcoas, and there is no room inward at all, and they do stick out a little, but not much, not any more than the 275's that were originally on my Super Snake. They just have the meaty tire look that you would find on most any of these cars who's owner is attempting to cram the most tire possible on the rear without looking "too big". Too big being the flat tread surface itself sticking out past the fender well edge. To my knowledge, the "actual tire bulge" past the fender well edge has always been acceptable in the muscle car world, "flat tire tread surface and bulge" sticking out past the fender lip..........not so acceptable. The guys who have chosen the 315 R888 and the 11.75" Alcoa widening option have found that the sidewall bulge and fender well lip are the same when mounted. When comparing the specs on the 315 R888 and the 325 Dunlop Sport Maxx GT, the only difference is a overall diameter of .1.........It is the 335 bulge on a 11.75 or 12 that goes just a little past the fender lip. I would like to see some pictures of the 345's that I see talked about. Do they stick out past the fender lip? R [/QUOTE]
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Best looking wheels on Red Shelby With White Stripes
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