BMR's BK048 is up on the site. Seems like the logical choice for optimal handling and wheel hop control. Anyone else have experience with Delrin sub-frame bushings from an NVH perspective? Compared to the forthcoming poly version the (subjective) question is...are we trading way more handling for a little more noise or a little better handling for a lot of noise? Can Dynamat make the decision moot?
BMR Rear Cradle Bushing Kit (Delrin)
- Thread starter MtnBiker
- Start date
These would be the samething as the junk aluminum steeda sub frame support system but instead of just a small piece of aluminum these replace the ENTIRE bushing right? How hard are the stockers to get out and these to put in?
I've thought this too.. 'Lemme put some of them there frame bushing spacers/washers in real quick jimbob, fix it right up!' haha
I bought a set and tried installing them. I'm a Mechanical Designer/Engineer and I can honestly say that they are the WORST design imaginable.. All I design is conveyor systems and I could've designed a MUCH better product that would install much easier with little to zero chance of getting ruined. So needless to say I complained to Steeda and I am trying to get some of my $$ back, or return these or something.
Got a call from Steeda, and they are going to send me out a new set so I will give it another shot trying to install them. I would still like to know how hard these bushings are to install and how hard the stockers are to remove though just in case.
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They do replace the entire OEM bushing assembly. The BK048 is the absolute best way to do it. They center the cradle, and eliminate the movement fore/aft and vertically of the cradle system.
I see what you guy are saying about the "jimbob fix" (that makes me giggle) - but, there are ways to make those work.
We developed our system (which is "similar" to the Steeda Kit) in October '14...and have been testing it since. We have revised the system no less than 5 times, in order to make it as good as it can possibly get while keeping the OEM Bushings in place.
Here is our system, which locks the cradle out fore/aft and vertically, centers the cradle, and adds a nice convenient rear jacking point.
We were/are the leaders in S197 Suspension and Chassis, and plan on continuing that path with the S550. :beer:
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They are a pita - to put it honestly.
My favorite way, and I have extraction tools at my disposal - is to take a sawzall and "slit" the sleeves in two places, then knock them out with a BFH.
Pulled the trigger. Both cradle and differential bushings. The GT will be here in 9 days according to Ford. Makes me a little queezy to perform surgery on a brand new car. My wife saw the wheel hop videos and said "we can't have that going on!". She's making me buy this stuff...pretty cool right?
So can the stockers be cut with a sawzall, and knocked out with the sub frame still on the car one side at a time in the average persons garage that doesn't have the extraction tools? Seems to me there isn't really a true "bolt on" fix for this after watching full tilt boogies videos of all the deflection. From the looks of ALL that deflection between the sub frame to chassis bushings and the diff bushings the best option to eliminate the tire hop is to start with replacing all of those bushings. I just wish it was easy and could be done without having to remove the sub frame and have things pressed out/in etc. Kinda wish I would've just bought another 11-14 that didn't have ALLLLL these ass end problems putting the power down and keeping it down.
Not too mention that if you are going to the strip with sticky tires you'll probably need to dump another $1500-$2000 on strengthened half-shafts.
Not too mention that if you are going to the strip with sticky tires you'll probably need to dump another $1500-$2000 on strengthened half-shafts.
ya but no dragstrip around here but I do want to put drag radials on for the street, but there probably isn't a point in doing that until I get the tire hop issue squashed. Seems like when I have all of the advance track OFF it does it lots vs just having it on and in sport mode, but the light comes on when it starts to get no traction and the car doesn't feel as quick because the TC is obviously working and killing power. I have read of people just throwing drag radials on and not having a tire hop problem at all though to. I have my LC set at the 3k minimum.
I have not tried. But, I am sure some people will figure out a simplified way.
As for the bolt-on solution not being viable - I do not agree.
Patience my friend, patience. We have some serious stuff in the works.
Well so far I only have the Steeda aluminum things and only half of that kit is in. They are sending me out another set of the 4 pieces that thread together so HOPEFULLY this next set will go in correctly, and hopefully make a difference. I am however holding off on buying ANY other parts to eliminate the tire hop problem until more products become available. I have always run BMR parts on all my old mustangs (and NEVER Steeda) So I would like to keep going with that trend.
The BK048 bushings arrived. A quite substantial set of parts with quality machining, fit and finish (to be expected). Waiting for the differential bushings and of course the Mustang (6 days now) before I drop sub-frame and install. Perhaps batting out of order here but it seems like every...single...YouTube video with a 2015 accelerating from a standing start has wheel hop. Thought I'd just rip the band-aid off - do all this right off the bat.
Are you just cutting all the stockers out? Using the alignment set to get the sub frame back in The same place? If not then how are you going to realign it?
The bmr cradle bushings aling the cradle.
I'd have alignment checked after.
As my cradle was shifted 5/8" to the drivers side. The control arms needed to be adjusted.
Bmr has a couple control arms too!
Thanks kelly ;-)
I'd have alignment checked after.
As my cradle was shifted 5/8" to the drivers side. The control arms needed to be adjusted.
Bmr has a couple control arms too!
Thanks kelly ;-)
Installed the Delrin cradle bushings today. Made the decision to only do the cradle - not the differential. After the install, which also included an exhaust (Borla S-Type) I have to say I'm amazed at how little NVH this mod has introduced (in all honesty I can't hear anything - the ride is ever so slightly more firm). The rear end seems a lot less squirrely at WOT and managing oversteer with the throttle is more predictable. The car just feels planted.
As for the install itself - what a pain in the arse. The rubber in the bushings gets all gooey when using the sawzall and it is hard to see or feel when you've gone through the bushing shell - two came off fairly easy and two were ridiculous. YMMV. We had to use some heat to get them out.
Here are some pointers for getting the job done easier. 1) I'll argue with the instructions a little. Take the rear shock all the way off. When re-assembling, attach the lower bolts between the LCA and shock first. Just trust me - the rubber bushing at the bottom of the shock makes aligning the mounting point difficult (or makes cross-threading the bolts easy). Once the lower bolts are tight you've got this nice lever arm to move the upper mount into position and those big bolts are easy. 2) The sub-frame won't just bolt back up with the springs attached. You can jack anything you want - we jacked the sub-frame to the point where the rear of the car was no longer supported by the lift and still, the bushings were nowhere near close enough to attach. Here is what we had to do. Put the sub-frame in without the springs. Attach one side but not all the way tight - just most of the way. Detach the sway bar bushings. Then have someone with a pry bar pull down the lower control arm while jacking up the sub-frame. This will allow you to mount one of the springs. Keeping the LCA pried down, attach the cradle bolts to the frame and then repeat the operation on the other side removing the sub-frame bolts and using the jack as before. What you'll notice is that the new bushings have much closer tolerances but that means there isn't as much sag in the sub-frame with the bolts loose so you have to heave on it a little. But this method works.
I highly recommend the BMR cradle bushings. I was justifying the purchase by saying this new Mustang was a real sports car and that expecting great handling meant giving up some refinement. I'm pleasantly surprised that the car is still quite civilized. Kelly at BMR was very candid about the trade-offs with the different bushing options. He's a straight shooter. Much appreciated.
As for the install itself - what a pain in the arse. The rubber in the bushings gets all gooey when using the sawzall and it is hard to see or feel when you've gone through the bushing shell - two came off fairly easy and two were ridiculous. YMMV. We had to use some heat to get them out.
Here are some pointers for getting the job done easier. 1) I'll argue with the instructions a little. Take the rear shock all the way off. When re-assembling, attach the lower bolts between the LCA and shock first. Just trust me - the rubber bushing at the bottom of the shock makes aligning the mounting point difficult (or makes cross-threading the bolts easy). Once the lower bolts are tight you've got this nice lever arm to move the upper mount into position and those big bolts are easy. 2) The sub-frame won't just bolt back up with the springs attached. You can jack anything you want - we jacked the sub-frame to the point where the rear of the car was no longer supported by the lift and still, the bushings were nowhere near close enough to attach. Here is what we had to do. Put the sub-frame in without the springs. Attach one side but not all the way tight - just most of the way. Detach the sway bar bushings. Then have someone with a pry bar pull down the lower control arm while jacking up the sub-frame. This will allow you to mount one of the springs. Keeping the LCA pried down, attach the cradle bolts to the frame and then repeat the operation on the other side removing the sub-frame bolts and using the jack as before. What you'll notice is that the new bushings have much closer tolerances but that means there isn't as much sag in the sub-frame with the bolts loose so you have to heave on it a little. But this method works.
I highly recommend the BMR cradle bushings. I was justifying the purchase by saying this new Mustang was a real sports car and that expecting great handling meant giving up some refinement. I'm pleasantly surprised that the car is still quite civilized. Kelly at BMR was very candid about the trade-offs with the different bushing options. He's a straight shooter. Much appreciated.
What springs do you have?
Factory? If so I wonder if bmr is referencing using bmr lowering springs, might have made the difference in getting the cradle bolts back in, being an inch-ish lower
Factory? If so I wonder if bmr is referencing using bmr lowering springs, might have made the difference in getting the cradle bolts back in, being an inch-ish lower
Good question. I'm staying with factory springs for now (daily driver). The closest we could get the sub-frame to the mounting holes was about 2.5" - way too far to engage the threads. Lowering springs would definitely make it easier but I'll bet you'd still have to manhandle the sub-frame.
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