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2015+ S550 Mustangs
S550 Mustang Suspension Modification/Discussion
BMR Rear Cradle Bushing Kit (Delrin)
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<blockquote data-quote="MtnBiker" data-source="post: 14849138" data-attributes="member: 170621"><p>Installed the Delrin cradle bushings today. Made the decision to only do the cradle - not the differential. After the install, which also included an exhaust (Borla S-Type) I have to say I'm amazed at how little NVH this mod has introduced (in all honesty I can't hear anything - the ride is ever so slightly more firm). The rear end seems a lot less squirrely at WOT and managing oversteer with the throttle is more predictable. The car just feels planted. </p><p></p><p>As for the install itself - what a pain in the arse. The rubber in the bushings gets all gooey when using the sawzall and it is hard to see or feel when you've gone through the bushing shell - two came off fairly easy and two were ridiculous. YMMV. We had to use some heat to get them out. </p><p></p><p>Here are some pointers for getting the job done easier. 1) I'll argue with the instructions a little. Take the rear shock all the way off. When re-assembling, attach the lower bolts between the LCA and shock first. Just trust me - the rubber bushing at the bottom of the shock makes aligning the mounting point difficult (or makes cross-threading the bolts easy). Once the lower bolts are tight you've got this nice lever arm to move the upper mount into position and those big bolts are easy. 2) The sub-frame won't just bolt back up with the springs attached. You can jack anything you want - we jacked the sub-frame to the point where the rear of the car was no longer supported by the lift and still, the bushings were nowhere near close enough to attach. Here is what we had to do. Put the sub-frame in without the springs. Attach one side but not all the way tight - just most of the way. Detach the sway bar bushings. Then have someone with a pry bar pull down the lower control arm while jacking up the sub-frame. This will allow you to mount one of the springs. Keeping the LCA pried down, attach the cradle bolts to the frame and then repeat the operation on the other side removing the sub-frame bolts and using the jack as before. What you'll notice is that the new bushings have much closer tolerances but that means there isn't as much sag in the sub-frame with the bolts loose so you have to heave on it a little. But this method works. </p><p></p><p>I highly recommend the BMR cradle bushings. I was justifying the purchase by saying this new Mustang was a real sports car and that expecting great handling meant giving up some refinement. I'm pleasantly surprised that the car is still quite civilized. Kelly at BMR was very candid about the trade-offs with the different bushing options. He's a straight shooter. Much appreciated.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MtnBiker, post: 14849138, member: 170621"] Installed the Delrin cradle bushings today. Made the decision to only do the cradle - not the differential. After the install, which also included an exhaust (Borla S-Type) I have to say I'm amazed at how little NVH this mod has introduced (in all honesty I can't hear anything - the ride is ever so slightly more firm). The rear end seems a lot less squirrely at WOT and managing oversteer with the throttle is more predictable. The car just feels planted. As for the install itself - what a pain in the arse. The rubber in the bushings gets all gooey when using the sawzall and it is hard to see or feel when you've gone through the bushing shell - two came off fairly easy and two were ridiculous. YMMV. We had to use some heat to get them out. Here are some pointers for getting the job done easier. 1) I'll argue with the instructions a little. Take the rear shock all the way off. When re-assembling, attach the lower bolts between the LCA and shock first. Just trust me - the rubber bushing at the bottom of the shock makes aligning the mounting point difficult (or makes cross-threading the bolts easy). Once the lower bolts are tight you've got this nice lever arm to move the upper mount into position and those big bolts are easy. 2) The sub-frame won't just bolt back up with the springs attached. You can jack anything you want - we jacked the sub-frame to the point where the rear of the car was no longer supported by the lift and still, the bushings were nowhere near close enough to attach. Here is what we had to do. Put the sub-frame in without the springs. Attach one side but not all the way tight - just most of the way. Detach the sway bar bushings. Then have someone with a pry bar pull down the lower control arm while jacking up the sub-frame. This will allow you to mount one of the springs. Keeping the LCA pried down, attach the cradle bolts to the frame and then repeat the operation on the other side removing the sub-frame bolts and using the jack as before. What you'll notice is that the new bushings have much closer tolerances but that means there isn't as much sag in the sub-frame with the bolts loose so you have to heave on it a little. But this method works. I highly recommend the BMR cradle bushings. I was justifying the purchase by saying this new Mustang was a real sports car and that expecting great handling meant giving up some refinement. I'm pleasantly surprised that the car is still quite civilized. Kelly at BMR was very candid about the trade-offs with the different bushing options. He's a straight shooter. Much appreciated. [/QUOTE]
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BMR Rear Cradle Bushing Kit (Delrin)
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