Ok-Let's end this debate on The Boost Bypass Mod.
Question For Poll-Have you done the ByPass Mod?
Question For Poll-Have you done the ByPass Mod?
Boost ByPass Poll-The Final Verdict
- Thread starter 04-MystiChrome
- Start date
I havnt done it yet. Ive been contemplating it (due to the little lag when shifting only kinda fast of building boost back). Kinda waiting around to see what verdicts are out there, and watching and learning more.
trey-
Wire or vacumn unplugged?
If you mean wire-cast vote.
best mod ever after intake
just swapped vacuum lines. works great!!!!
"Boost ByPass Poll-The Final Verdict
Ok-Let's end this debate on The Boost Bypass Mod.
Question For Poll-Have you done the ByPass Mod?"
If you guys keep creating "The Final verdict Polls" we won't have anything to talk about.
:lol:
I wish the search worked!
:shrug:
I agree everyone likes an opinion on something, But I believe most people on this site WANT FACTS! How about a poll with factual results from doing this mod/unmod!
This is getting a little old.
Could a moderator make a seperate polling catagory that way if you wanted a poll you could create on there and even vote on others.
:shrug:
Not ripping you 04-MystiChrome just my verbal vote.
:cuss:
JP
Ok-Let's end this debate on The Boost Bypass Mod.
Question For Poll-Have you done the ByPass Mod?"
If you guys keep creating "The Final verdict Polls" we won't have anything to talk about.
:lol:
I wish the search worked!
:shrug:
I agree everyone likes an opinion on something, But I believe most people on this site WANT FACTS! How about a poll with factual results from doing this mod/unmod!
This is getting a little old.
Could a moderator make a seperate polling catagory that way if you wanted a poll you could create on there and even vote on others.
:shrug:
Not ripping you 04-MystiChrome just my verbal vote.
:cuss:
JPi followed the RPM Outlet instructions, but did a few things on my own to clean it up a little.
did it about 8 months ago and it's been off ever since. car is running fine.
did it about 8 months ago and it's been off ever since. car is running fine.
does it really make a difference in performance?
I am saying no!
Just so happens that last evening a Porsche Turbo pulled along side of me & rev'd his engine. I let him have a hole shot...then I
simply reeled him in and when I hit third gear I was 2 cars up.
Because the boost didn't dump on me, with that known hesitation
you get when shifting, I pulled on him quicker than I usually would have and I stayed in my boost pretty well thru the period.
It just seems smoother from gear to gear as well without that
big hesitation hit you get without the mod.
Ok........I see
trey;
I agree, but some say that the pulling of the wire leads to
a stored "soft code" ,which effects are unknown, hence I went
with the RPM deal. Now maybe Amazon can clearify the benefits
of the chip/tune bypass as not disrupting sensor tubes or wires.
I "think" (but also I'm unsure) that anyway you perform the
ByPass is OK and it creats the SAME effects or defects as some
might say. It is very clear based on the poll numbers that many
of the guys would like to do this mod but because of confusion,
which is expected, are concerned in doing so. I wish the "Pros"
from Amazon,RPM,Steeda,and the like would chime in so all could
really get some informed arguments & information on this. I just
can't imagine company's like Steeda's By Pass Kit & Amazon's Chip
for example (even if you don't buy RPMOutlets freemod) selling us
something that could be detrimental to our beloved vehicles. So
I'm sticking with the mod cause it really does help between shifts
which I don't think anyone can argue.
:beer:
basically all it does is this:
after a certain point (RPM), the boost maxes out, and from there starts dropping as the RPMs get higher. usually around 2-3 PSI by redline. all this free mod does is prevent that from happening.
after a certain point (RPM), the boost maxes out, and from there starts dropping as the RPMs get higher. usually around 2-3 PSI by redline. all this free mod does is prevent that from happening.
Unplugging it will not create a "soft code" condition. Just unplug it and enjoy. Believe me, you'll create more wear and tear with a pulley swap then you will from not allowing the blower to "vent off" pressure.
still confused...i did it, and i have mixed feelings. my var had never hit the skinny line on the boost gauge before i did it, and now i have seen it do it twice. yet, sometimes the gauge does not get anywhere near it now. i dont know what to think. James
So would this affect the numbers on a dyno? I dyno'd at 460 with all of my mods and wondering why so many people are pulling 500?
All my crap stays plugged in and I'm running 7.15 at 99.1mph in the 1/8th and it will be going high 6's here soon. If you don't want to dump boost, powershift. There are two things you guys are talking about and I'm not sure everyone is speaking the same language. First, there is the vacuum operated mechanical bypass valve, and then there is the solenoid that reads vacuum and tells the bypass to open.
When you unplug the electrical connector (or reroute vacuum lines I guess) to the solenoid, you override the computers ability to tell the bypass to open during "abuse" or "overheating" or "preseervation" like when you are shifting. If you shift fast enough the computer can't keep up and you have zero boost dump. Note that no matter what you do in the software or vacuum line wise or electrical plug unplugging will eliminate the boost drop at higher RPMS.. THAT is an inherent side effect of a roots type blower and where it is in its efficiency zone.
Now, if you unplug the vacuum line to the mechanical bypass valve, OR turn OFF the bypass in your chip (and I've done both and returned both to stock), your fuel mileage drops to 7.8mpg or worse AND your engine is down 15 or so HP all the time because its more heat soaked because the blower is always making boost and heat.
Vote what you want, try what you want, I've tried it all (except rerouting the vacuum lines) and all it did was take away the computers ability to dump boost during overheat (which I didn't like) and shifting (which I now have zero issue with). Get yourself a clutch quadrant/firewall adjuster and a pro5.0 shifter and learn to powershift and be done with it.
Jerry
When you unplug the electrical connector (or reroute vacuum lines I guess) to the solenoid, you override the computers ability to tell the bypass to open during "abuse" or "overheating" or "preseervation" like when you are shifting. If you shift fast enough the computer can't keep up and you have zero boost dump. Note that no matter what you do in the software or vacuum line wise or electrical plug unplugging will eliminate the boost drop at higher RPMS.. THAT is an inherent side effect of a roots type blower and where it is in its efficiency zone.
Now, if you unplug the vacuum line to the mechanical bypass valve, OR turn OFF the bypass in your chip (and I've done both and returned both to stock), your fuel mileage drops to 7.8mpg or worse AND your engine is down 15 or so HP all the time because its more heat soaked because the blower is always making boost and heat.
Vote what you want, try what you want, I've tried it all (except rerouting the vacuum lines) and all it did was take away the computers ability to dump boost during overheat (which I didn't like) and shifting (which I now have zero issue with). Get yourself a clutch quadrant/firewall adjuster and a pro5.0 shifter and learn to powershift and be done with it.
Jerry
How do you know this? Did you read it somewhere or did you
test it via dyno or are you quoting someone or somewhere else?
No flames intended in anyway but I do want just absolute fact
so please inform us of your source this. Also, if the blower is constantly making boost like you said then why at idle or low
RPM cruising does the boost guage NOT reflect boost is happening.
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