Boss 302 build options

[nooner]

My engine seized up after a shop forgot to add oil after draining it for an oil change, so I've decided to replace it with a MMR Boss 302 long block. I will reuse my stock Eaton and stock pullies and whatever else I can, and eventually will port and pulley them. I have listed the options below that I can choose to go with this engine. Which options should I go for and why? I don't race but I do show. Considering my original engine was putting out 432/389 rwhp/rwtq, how much do you think this upgrade would put out?

This first group is a no brainer, I think, so I would start with these options...
Upgrade to Stage 3 Ported Heads*** +$999
MMR windage tray and hardware kit (+15HP) + 129.99

...what additional options (if any)?
Add Comp cams Stage1-3 for $1149.99
Add all timing chains, lifters, rockers,
Tensioners and assemble, and time cams +$599**************
Upgrade to Stainless Steel Valves* +$369.99
Upgrade to Comp Valve Springs (required for High RPM/ non-factory cams)+369.99
Upgrade to MMR Street/Racing Oil pump* +$99
Add MMR 7qrt Street/Racing Oil Pan ** +$229
Add ARP Main Studs* (recommended for 600+HP) +$169
Upgrade to MMR block side bolts (recommended for 500+ HP) +$44.99
Upgrade to ARP 2000 Rod bolts ** +$99
Coated Pistons (ceramic dome/teflon skirt)* $399.99
MMR/Felpro Extreme Duty Headgaskets + $169.99
ARP Headstuds +$269.99
(removed cam & head options that don't apply)

 

[silverserpant]

Those heads(R or GT) will not work on a 4.6 block unless you have a custom lower intake made.$$$$$ The ported cnc heads should be near the same flow numbers. And if it is just for show that is quite the build up.

 

[Ironhand]

Ok a few things with your list.
First if you want better flow you will need to port your heads or 03-04 heads.
Main and head studs are a good insurance policy however if your not reaching above 700hp I think they arent needed. Shelbys use factory bolts even above 700rwhp just fyi.

Fr-500 cams are designed for N/A applications and your best 4 options for cams in a near factory cobra. Is the Stock Cobra cams, Ford GT cams, Crower, and Comp cams stage IIs. Read the specs on both sets because one stage II or stage III cam will be more aggressive then the other depending on mgf.

Ford GT heads are good heads and flow really well however they have a higher pedestal that the lower intake sits on. Its around an inch from what Ive heard. Also Im not 100% sure that the 03-04 cobra lower will work due to bolt pattern and the room in between the ports will allow the lower to sit down all the way. You will have to look further into it.

 

[nooner]

It was late when I posted this. Now after rereading it, I wasn't very clear. I edited my initial post to be more clear.

 

[nooner]

Those heads(R or GT) will not work on a 4.6 block unless you have a custom lower intake made.$$$$$ The ported cnc heads should be near the same flow numbers. And if it is just for show that is quite the build up.

Ok, so R and GT heads are out, but the stage 3 ported heads should flow just as well anyway. Got it! Insurance company is paying a major chunk of this so this is my opportunity to get a good build for a relatively small price.
:rockon:

Ok a few things with your list.
First if you want better flow you will need to port your heads or 03-04 heads.
Main and head studs are a good insurance policy however if your not reaching above 700hp I think they arent needed. Shelbys use factory bolts even above 700rwhp just fyi.

Fr-500 cams are designed for N/A applications and your best 4 options for cams in a near factory cobra. Is the Stock Cobra cams, Ford GT cams, Crower, and Comp cams stage IIs. Read the specs on both sets because one stage II or stage III cam will be more aggressive then the other depending on mgf.

Ford GT heads are good heads and flow really well however they have a higher pedestal that the lower intake sits on. Its around an inch from what Ive heard. Also Im not 100% sure that the 03-04 cobra lower will work due to bolt pattern and the room in between the ports will allow the lower to sit down all the way. You will have to look further into it.

So you are saying the power level I'll probably be at should not require ARP bolts. And the GT heads are out. Since FR500 cams are for n/a then the cheaper option is really no option. I don't know much about cams but I love a good cam lope (and the power that goes with it), but still want decent driveability.

Thanks for your responses, guys.

 

[Ironhand]

Ok, so R and GT heads are out, but the stage 3 ported heads should flow just as well anyway. Got it! Insurance company is paying a major chunk of this so this is my opportunity to get a good build for a relatively small price.
:rockon:



So you are saying the power level I'll probably be at should not require ARP bolts. And the GT heads are out. Since FR500 cams are for n/a then the cheaper option is really no option. I don't know much about cams but I love a good cam lope (and the power that goes with it), but still want decent driveability.

Thanks for your responses, guys.

Correct at 500rwhp you dont need the ARP stuff because the factory peices do a good job as it is and you can just save some money that way. There are tons of whipple and KB cobra running around with factory mains and studs.

The best 2 options when it comes to cams are your stockers or Ford GT supercar cams. I have a set of them myself and cant wait to get back to the states and put my motor together. Considering they are only about 500 dollars from FRPP its not a bad buy. The GT-500 guys are seeing around 30 wheel with the FGT cams. Although your gains might not be as large.

 

[nooner]

$500 for Ford GT cams sounds like an awesome deal for a near 30 rwhp gain!

 

[Midnight_Cobra]

.Or for even cheaper cams, keep your exhaust cams, but switch to 96-98 cobra intake cams. You'll get some power out of those

 

[RPM4DAZ]

Mr. NOONER,

I have a set of "GT" cams out of my heads. They are brand new and have been marked for location. They have never ever been ran. I have different cams for my application. I will be glad ship them to you in Florida for $400.00 total... PM me if you want them.

RPM

 

[nooner]

Still not decided about which cam to use. Price will not be the determining factor. Driveability (which I'm sure is good with GT cams) and sound will be determining factors. It has to sound like it has been cammed, will the GT cams produce a noticeable cam lope at idle?

Does anyone have input on why I would want to choose one of these options?

Upgrade to Stainless Steel Valves* +$369.99
Upgrade to MMR Street/Racing Oil pump* +$99
Coated Pistons (ceramic dome/teflon skirt)* $399.99
MMR/Felpro Extreme Duty Headgaskets + $169.99

Thanks for every one's help in getting me past this tragedy. Their insurance co. has thrown out the first lowball offer to replace with a used engine, as I was told they would. He stopped me before I got too far into a good rant and said he was just doing his job.

 

[RPM4DAZ]

Ford "GT" cams do have a bit different sound than other ( stock ) modular cams, but you won't get much of a lope from them. If your looking for driveabilty try to stay at or below 220' degrees of duration @ .050". You will get a bit of sound from them. They won't be very lumpy though. Closing the lobe separation up will increase the lumpiness and bring in the torque lower. Opening the L/Sep. will smooth out the idle and increase vacuum some and increase the upper horsepower level.