Brake bleeding help?

99cobraclone

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trust me this install is a pain in the ass, you probably just want to shop around for a good price. Brake places have a tool that you will need to buy, I forget what it is. I would take it to a shop, there is also no way you can do this alone, you need someone pumping the brakes for you. I would take it to like meinke or something, goodluck.
 

ShelbyGuy

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top the fluid off and bleed it through like you normally would. as long as you dont get any air in the abs servo you will be fine.

start at the caliper farthest from the master cylinder, and if it has mutliple bleeder screws [eg brembo] start with the outside bleeder then the inside.

and, yes, 99cobraclone is correct. unless you are using a pressure bleeder, this takes two people. the braided brake hoses make a big difference in how solid the brake pedal feels.

the stoptech brake hoses are superior to the earls or russels.
 

Top_Fuel

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To make it an easy 1-man job, buy some SPEED BLEEDERS. They make brake fluid changes and brake bleeding a whole lot easier. You can buy them online...and the last time I checked, Pep Boys was selling them.

I have speed bleeders in all of my cars and they work great!

-Greg
 

Joe King

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I changed my M/C & got air in the ABS. I had to take the car (towed) to an SVT dealer. Regular Ford dealers do not have the code for Cobras to cycle the ABS to bleed it.

Unless you have boiled your fluid, this is probably ...NOT...necessary, and the potential hassle makes it really a questionable upgrade.
 

j card

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If you are doing the SS lines - make sure you have the correct bolts - (the ones that bolt the line to the calipers). There have been 2 different sizes used on the cobras - make sure you have the right ones before you tear it apart. Otherwise, you'll be bleeding it out twice. I had to put it back together and wait for the correct bolts to show up. Maximum Motorsports overnighted them to me for free - great service.
 

hmwave

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Originally posted by ShelbyGuy
start at the caliper farthest from the master cylinder, and if it has mutliple bleeder screws [eg brembo] start with the outside bleeder then the inside.

Question: I thought the shop manual said start at the caliper *nearest" the MC and work out?
 

SnakeBit

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Originally posted by hmwave
Question: I thought the shop manual said start at the caliper *nearest" the MC and work out?
No, ALWAYS start with the caliper farthest away.

I took an old jar, large enough to hold at least one can of brake fluid. It's best to start with an empty can of brake fluid (maybe an old half full can still on your shelf, just dump that old fluid, it's no good by now). Fill it with water and dump it into the jar. Now mark the fluid level. Throw out the water and connect your bleeder hose to bleeder screw (I used to use speedbleeders, but now I use a MityVac. Both work well.).

Take a full can of brake fluid, wipe off the top good so there is no dirt that can get into the system, and carefully invert it onto your master cylinder (be careful you don't spill it on the paint! I use my thumb over the opening until the bottle is inverted). Now duct tape it in place so it doesn't tip over. At this point, it looks like an inverted water bottle sitting on top of the water cooler.

Now go bleed your brakes. Watch the fluid level in the jar, cause when it's close to the line you marked, then the brake fluid can is nearly empty. If you're still bleeding, then put another can on.

Another tip. Brake fluid WILL absorb water, so don't bother storing an open can. If you need to add just a little bit of fluid, might as well do a little flushing and use up the entire can. It's cheaper than replacing calipers because of internal corrosion. Pull your stock bleeder valve all the way out and you'll see what I mean.

Now I try to flush my fluid once a year. The way I drive, I need every ounce of braking power I can get. It also helps to pull off the rotors once a year so they don't rust to the hub and become a bitch to pull off.
 

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