Brake Fade at The Track?

[Coz]

Just saw your response on the left turns & braking. That could possibly explain it since with the g-forces and attendant weight transfer, your right side is doing more work on such turns. That is assuming that the track has more left turns (or more tighter) than right turns.

While a version of slightly staying on the brakes (trail braking) to promote weight transfer is used by advanced drivers, it takes some practice.

Braking too early and braking heavily into a turn will overheat the brakes more than aggressive (but smooth) braking just prior to the turn and not braking in the turn.

You mentioned your temps were a lot lower than they were during your first track experience. However, while on the track, the temps could be much higher. In addition, the temps of the pads and could be higher than the rotors and exceed their rating. If there were higher temps on one side during these the tight turns, by the time you get the checkered flag and through the cool down lap and into the paddock area, the temps could somewhat equalize.

One way to find out is to put some temperature paint or strips on your calipers.

https://www.apracing.com/Info.aspx?InfoID=44&ProductID=977

If one side gets to higher temp than the other it could confirm that is the problem.

I doubt it is a proportioning valve problem because that normally results in a front to back imbalance rather than side to side.

 

[Black Cobra '99]

I doubt aeration of the fluid would cause the effects in the pictures. He didn't mention any soft pedal during his track day. But I am curious if he flushed his 5.1 and went to the Motul RBF600 or similar.

Not that it has much to do with the issues you mentioned, I note that your rotor is not the StopTech slotted you said you had ordered.

One other thing that I noticed that I forget to mention. The JLT duct that you installed does not cover the entire rotor.

This results in the tie rod end being exposed to more radiant heat from the rotor. Not sure about your year GT500, but the 13-14s had backing plates on the front that protected the tie rod end.

https://lmr.com/item/M2005MSVT/Mustang-Front-Brake-Backing-Plate-GT500-Style-M-2005-MSVT

While the JLT duct could arguably promote more cooling, the fact that it does not seal the hub area means that whatever cooling occurs is not as effective.

That's why I would recommend the Vorshlag back plate. It directs the air to the center of the rotor and is wide enough to protect the tie rod end.

I'm still using MOTUL's 5.1 but I did flush the old stuff the day before.

I cancelled the rotors because a) they wouldn't arrive in time b) the old ones worked fine with new pads.

Regarding brake ducts, I think I'll switch to something other than JLT.

 

[Black Cobra '99]

Just saw your response on the left turns & braking. That could possibly explain it since with the g-forces and attendant weight transfer, your right side is doing more work on such turns. That is assuming that the track has more left turns (or more tighter) than right turns.

While a version of slightly staying on the brakes (trail braking) to promote weight transfer is used by advanced drivers, it takes some practice.

Braking too early and braking heavily into a turn will overheat the brakes more than aggressive (but smooth) braking just prior to the turn and not braking in the turn.

You mentioned your temps were a lot lower than they were during your first track experience. However, while on the track, the temps could be much higher. In addition, the temps of the pads and could be higher than the rotors and exceed their rating. If there were higher temps on one side during these the tight turns, by the time you get the checkered flag and through the cool down lap and into the paddock area, the temps could somewhat equalize.

One way to find out is to put some temperature paint or strips on your calipers.

https://www.apracing.com/Info.aspx?InfoID=44&ProductID=977

If one side gets to higher temp than the other it could confirm that is the problem.

I doubt it is a proportioning valve problem because that normally results in a front to back imbalance rather than side to side.

I'm only staying on the brakes because I'm a complete novice and have no idea what I'm doing lol.

Actually temps were higher than the first time, last time I posted temps in Fahrenheit and this time in Celsius, my apologies.

So, what does the cracks mean for the CT pads, are they no good?

 

[barspen]

So, what does the cracks mean for the CT pads, are they no good?

I believe that is normal, but I don't have them on my CT (just checked). Might want to call or drop a note to the CT support folks or your pad reseller.

 

[Coz]

Totally understand. I did the same and probably still don't brake as efficiently as I should.

I took a Hooked on Driving class where they pair you up with a ride along coach. A little expensive but it was well worth it.

As far as the pads, I would hesitate to use them on the track again, especially with the high temps you're encountering. The pads may chunk by the existing crack and you'll end up with less surface area. The crack may also account for the noise you were encountering.

Did you go through the recommended pad bedding process before going to track?

I would ask Carbotech and send them a pic. Maybe you'll get lucky and they'll replace it or give you a replacement at a discount.

While the 5.1 is better than stock, with the high temps, I would recommend a 600° DOT 4 fluid. Your 5.1 probably has a dry boiling point of 525°.

 

[Black Cobra '99]

Did you go through the recommended pad bedding process before going to track?

I would ask Carbotech and send them a pic. Maybe you'll get lucky and they'll replace it or give you a replacement at a discount.

Yes, although they say its better done on the track, we have some empty streets that I performed the bed in in. If its because of the bed in wouldn't be all the pads? or at least not side specific.

I'll email them and see what they say.

 

[Coz]

Absent any mechanical issue such as a stuck caliper piston, the bed-in process should give you the same results side to side. However, if the bed-in process was not properly accomplished, it could result in exaggerated overheating differences from side to side, such as on a side that may take more load than the other such as more tight left turns than tight right turns.

If your car was not pulling to one side or another when aggressively braking in a straight line you're brakes are probably ok mechanically.