i just had my rotors turned and bought a set of carbon/metalic pads. after putting back together the pedal is way mushy and the pads continuosly rub on rotors. i get the swoosh swoosh swoosh while driving sound. i did not bleed brakes. ive never had to on this or my 96 cobra. i ran out of time tonite to rip it all back apart but am going to tomorrow. any help would be greatly appreciated.
brake help
- Thread starter 2004 REDFIRE
- Start date
bled the brakes and there was no change. come on guys, somebodys got to have an idea??:dw:
I would also like to know as I just put in new front springs and now have the same whooshing sound.
-Eric
-Eric
Did you properly "BED" the pads in, or just go driving and randomly hit the brakes a few times?
What pads were they........... exactly? What brand? What compound/version?
What pads were they........... exactly? What brand? What compound/version?
No i didnt bed anything. They were dragging when i put them back together. I started it up and the pedal was horrific. Went down my street and turned straight around and parked it. This morning i bled the brakes and they still felt and sounded bad. Havent drove it since. I have new rotors coming in on tuesday. The brakes were pfb (performance friction brakes 0412.20) CARBON/METALIC
If they are dragging you've got something wrong.
After you resolve whatever that is, look up "bedding in brake pads" on a google search. Some are manufacturer specific, but you will get a general idea and find out how important that step is especially with new rotors.
After you resolve whatever that is, look up "bedding in brake pads" on a google search. Some are manufacturer specific, but you will get a general idea and find out how important that step is especially with new rotors.
YEAH? I REALIZE SOMETHING IS A MISS. ONCE I CAN FIGURE OUT WHAT IS GOING ON, I WILL LOOK IN THE BEDDING PROCESS. BUT I NEED ANSWERS TO WHATS THE ORIGINAL HANG UP.:read:
OK SPIKE WHERE"S THE FREAKING PICTURES OF YOUR ASSEMBLY JOB THEN??!!!
You have given zero clues to the problem except it makes a swoosh noise.
Come on, we can help you if you help us.
Take the wheel off, spin the rotor, and look in and see where the noise is coming from.
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spike?? really? reread first post. "the pads are rubbing on rotors." hence:swoosh..swoosh...swoosh. ive been searching a bit and finding that some guys have been having to take it to the dealer to activate the abs recycle. i was only looking for maybe someone who has experienced the same sort of problem. ive given you, ROVER, the answers to every question youve asked. as for caps on, there were accidentally left on when i logged on. i wasnt yelling at you but i might start.
oke: see how screen name is all capitalized?
oke: see how screen name is all capitalized?
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All the info, eh?
The car has four rotors, which one/ones are making this infamous "whooshing" noise? Did you potentially get GT rear pads, thicker than Cobra pads to accommodate the thinner GT rotor? Are you paranoid? Cars make many strange noises, especially when you install rotating, friction oriented components. For instance, I installed new Brembo rotors and I got a horrible knocking noise - sounded like a front wheel bearing failure for two weeks. But, I was patient and all is well now. Why didn't you bleed the brakes? Always a good plan, and potentially the easy fix you are looking for...
If you are uncomfortable, impatient, or incompetent in your car work, a forum will not help you. It will only frustrate you.
BTW, a dealer ABS bleed would only be necessary if you let the master cylinder go dry. But, you didn't bleed the brakes and installed new, thicker pads, so your master cylinder level only went up.
The car has four rotors, which one/ones are making this infamous "whooshing" noise? Did you potentially get GT rear pads, thicker than Cobra pads to accommodate the thinner GT rotor? Are you paranoid? Cars make many strange noises, especially when you install rotating, friction oriented components. For instance, I installed new Brembo rotors and I got a horrible knocking noise - sounded like a front wheel bearing failure for two weeks. But, I was patient and all is well now. Why didn't you bleed the brakes? Always a good plan, and potentially the easy fix you are looking for...
If you are uncomfortable, impatient, or incompetent in your car work, a forum will not help you. It will only frustrate you.
BTW, a dealer ABS bleed would only be necessary if you let the master cylinder go dry. But, you didn't bleed the brakes and installed new, thicker pads, so your master cylinder level only went up.
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sorry...front brakes. and i did bleed brakes the following morning.(see the next morning post) but not originally since i never opened system. btw not my first cobra. the 1996 (which also own) and 2004 use the same exact brake equipment. so not uncomfortable, impatient, or incompetent just wouldnt think the rotors, which have only been turned for the first time, would be the main problem. after installing new front rotors and the pads i installed saturday the pedal is back to normal with the stopping power it once had. i am so sorry you guys couldnt bare with a guy that couldnt understand what could be going on. but feel free to climb aboard and s@$t talk.
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Silly question, but did the clips -- the ones that are the wear warning indicators -- get turned or put in wrong? It happens. Maybe something from the old pads is hanging up your new pads. I've even put on new pads that are machined off a little and had to file to get them to fit; not on a mustang, but it happens too.
Seriously take some good pics of the wheel(s) in question up front removed showing the brake pads inner and outer.
Good luck!
Seriously take some good pics of the wheel(s) in question up front removed showing the brake pads inner and outer.
Good luck!
hey nutty..im not sure what went wrong. i replaced with new rotors and it was good as new??? i only turned rotors while waiting for new one to come in. maybe they got turned too much (doubt it)? but all is good. thanks for the replies.
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First of all, forget about just BLEEDING the brakes, you need to flush the brake fluid completely. If you've never done it, your brake fluid is 6 years old and it has absorbed water for sure.
One problem may be the seals on the pistons. When you push in the pedal, the seals slightly deform as your pistons go against the rotors. When you release, in addition to the hydraulic pressure, the seals returning to normal also help retract the pistons. Old brake fluid can leave deposits on the bore the pistons move in and this can help keeping the pistons from retracting. Annual flushing of fluid helps keep these deposits from forming.
I use high temp silicone lube (the NAPA brand). Lube the slider pins up top, then a very slight smug (and I mean very slight, no build up at all) on the bottom where the metal backing of the pads slides on the caliper body. This helps the pads retract.
Good luck.
One problem may be the seals on the pistons. When you push in the pedal, the seals slightly deform as your pistons go against the rotors. When you release, in addition to the hydraulic pressure, the seals returning to normal also help retract the pistons. Old brake fluid can leave deposits on the bore the pistons move in and this can help keeping the pistons from retracting. Annual flushing of fluid helps keep these deposits from forming.
I use high temp silicone lube (the NAPA brand). Lube the slider pins up top, then a very slight smug (and I mean very slight, no build up at all) on the bottom where the metal backing of the pads slides on the caliper body. This helps the pads retract.
Good luck.
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