Brake job....HELP!!!

[rmoreau]

I am replacing the pads on the front for a OT day this week end and I have a couple of quick Q's for those who have done it before.

What is the best/easiest way to get at the pads?

I see 2 ways, but not sure the proper way to go before I try it.

1) Two bolts that mount the entire caliper assy to the spindles.

2) Pin with c-clip on lower part of caliper only (I'm looking at the drivers side for now).

Also, I have read that on some Mustangs, mostly GT's that the piston has to be rotated back into the caliper. Does any of this apply to our cars?


Thank you in advance for all your help.


R

 

[03DOHC]

Originally posted by rmoreau
I am replacing the pads on the front for a OT day this week end and I have a couple of quick Q's for those who have done it before.

What is the best/easiest way to get at the pads?

I see 2 ways, but not sure the proper way to go before I try it.

1) Two bolts that mount the entire caliper assy to the spindles.

2) Pin with c-clip on lower part of caliper only (I'm looking at the drivers side for now).

Also, I have read that on some Mustangs, mostly GT's that the piston has to be rotated back into the caliper. Does any of this apply to our cars?


Thank you in advance for all your help.


R

The rear brake caliper pistons need to be turned and compressed. The fronts just compress.

 

[Cobra-R]

Use the c clip option. Have fun at the track.......and be safe damnit!!!!!!

Brian

 

[rmoreau]

03DOHC, Thank you for clearing that up about the turning piston.

Now just waiting for my other answers :beer:


R

 

[Steve Snake Driver]

Don't unbolt the caliper mount (the two bolts you mention). Once you take off the 'C' clip that holds the pin in, pull the pin and the caliper lifts out.

 

[rmoreau]

Thank you 03DOHC, Cobra-R, and Steve Snake Driver. I just finished both sides (with a quick snack in between for those looking a total time).

I did the pin. Worked great. I'm going to go out now and "bed them in" per instructions.

My only caution that I would like to pass on to anyone doing this is when removing the old pad from the piston side, DONT JUST YANK IT TOWARDS THE FRONT!! It's attached VERY well to those pistons and I almost tore the first one out of its cup doing this.

Gently work each side out with your hand just enough to get a flat blade screwdriver in between there to separate them.

R

 

[bassin247]

are you using oem pads to replace your old ones?

 

[rmoreau]

No, I swapped in Hawk HPS pads. I intend to swap back my OEM's after the weekend. I have 12,500 miles and one track day already on my OEM's and they have what looks like almost half thier life left. I was told the hawks dust pretty badly and I'd most likly go back to the OEM's anyway.

I GOTTA SAY THESE HAWKS GRIP SOMETHIN FIERCE! I was very impressed by them on my test drive.

After putting on the wheels I torqued the lugs to 100 ft/lbs (by the way, you'll need a short extension to use a torque wrench on the wheels). I went around the block once and re-torqued them. I noticed the left side was fine, but the right was a touch loose. then after my "Bedding" I re-torqued once more. Same thing happened again!! I'm gonna have to keep an eye on that right side...to many posts about busted studs and loose nuts out there. I dont want to be one of them !!

OEM's at Kragen (local auto parts store) were $140 Hawks were $90 at Brothers Performance. While I was there I bought BBK sub-frame connectors and had them installed earlier this evening. WOW!!!! what a difference thay made in handling. Best mod to date!

R :rolling: