I'm getting ready to change the front brake rotors. Any tips for getting the little clips off of the lug studs? I'd like to re-use them if possible, but if I screw them up getting them off, oh well. Anybody got a good method for this?
Brake rotor clips
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There weren't any on mine. Toss 'em.
spend the $3 on a new set of clips if you want them. they're only there to hold the rotor on during assembly. in the field we just use a lug nut.
Just toss them. As stated before, the factory puts them on to hold the rotor in place during assembly. Your wheel will hold them on as well as the rust around the hub. I used antiseize around the hole in the rotor because on my 98, I had to use a wheel puller to get one of them off. The other side came off with a BAH (Big Ass Hammer). I've seen the Ford techs use a sledge to knock off rotors from cars where they rust solid to the wheel hub.
You can always tell a good mechanic by the size of his hammer.
One more tip. It's a good idea to flush your brake fluid once a year. It can get pretty nasty in there. If you're interested, here's my method for flushing brake fluid:
I took an old jar, large enough to hold at least one can of brake fluid. It's best to start with an empty can. Fill it with water and dump it into the jar. Now mark the fluid level. Throw out the water and connect your bleeder hose to bleeder screw (I used to use speedbleeders, but now I use a MityVac. Both work well.).
Take a full can of brake fluid, wipe off the top good so there is no dirt that can get into the system, and carefully invert it onto your master cylinder (be careful you don't spill it on the paint! I use my thumb over the opening until the bottle is inverted). Now duct tape it in place so it doesn't tip over. At this point, it looks like an inverted water bottle sitting on top of the water cooler.
Now go bleed your brakes. Watch the fluid level in the jar, cause when it's close to the line you marked, then the brake fluid can is nearly empty. If you're still bleeding, then put another can on.
Another tip. Brake fluid WILL absorb water, so don't bother storing an open can. If you need to add just a little bit of fluid, might as well do a little flushing and use up the entire can. It's cheaper than replacing calipers because of internal corrosion. Pull your stock bleeder valve all the way out and you'll see what I mean.
You can always tell a good mechanic by the size of his hammer.
One more tip. It's a good idea to flush your brake fluid once a year. It can get pretty nasty in there. If you're interested, here's my method for flushing brake fluid:
I took an old jar, large enough to hold at least one can of brake fluid. It's best to start with an empty can. Fill it with water and dump it into the jar. Now mark the fluid level. Throw out the water and connect your bleeder hose to bleeder screw (I used to use speedbleeders, but now I use a MityVac. Both work well.).
Take a full can of brake fluid, wipe off the top good so there is no dirt that can get into the system, and carefully invert it onto your master cylinder (be careful you don't spill it on the paint! I use my thumb over the opening until the bottle is inverted). Now duct tape it in place so it doesn't tip over. At this point, it looks like an inverted water bottle sitting on top of the water cooler.
Now go bleed your brakes. Watch the fluid level in the jar, cause when it's close to the line you marked, then the brake fluid can is nearly empty. If you're still bleeding, then put another can on.
Another tip. Brake fluid WILL absorb water, so don't bother storing an open can. If you need to add just a little bit of fluid, might as well do a little flushing and use up the entire can. It's cheaper than replacing calipers because of internal corrosion. Pull your stock bleeder valve all the way out and you'll see what I mean.
There any reason these cars can't be flushed and converted over to Dot 5?
To do it right, you would need to completely drain the system first, then fill with DOT 5. Only problem is that if the ABS gets air in it, it will take special equipment to bleed.
Personally, I use the Ford HD brake fluid. It's fairly cheap, and it works very well. The secret is to keep out water from the system, but since it absorbs water from the air through the M/C resevoir, all you can do is flush it periodically. IMO, for street use, flushing once a year is more than adequate, however, for road racing, I would flush more often (like before an event).
The first time I flushed my 98 was when it was 3 years old. The difference between the color and clarity of the old fluid vs new was like chicken salad and chicken s**t. The brake feel was dramic as well. Now it's an annual (or is that "anal"?) event for me.
Personally, I use the Ford HD brake fluid. It's fairly cheap, and it works very well. The secret is to keep out water from the system, but since it absorbs water from the air through the M/C resevoir, all you can do is flush it periodically. IMO, for street use, flushing once a year is more than adequate, however, for road racing, I would flush more often (like before an event).
The first time I flushed my 98 was when it was 3 years old. The difference between the color and clarity of the old fluid vs new was like chicken salad and chicken s**t. The brake feel was dramic as well. Now it's an annual (or is that "anal"?) event for me.
That's why I asked about Dot 5; it doesn't absorb moisture. Got no experience with ABS.
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