Thanks I'll do some research, and looking into them.I did break a factory rod in 2016. If you are building a new engine for 4 digit power, sell your Manley's and get the Molnar rods.
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Thanks I'll do some research, and looking into them.I did break a factory rod in 2016. If you are building a new engine for 4 digit power, sell your Manley's and get the Molnar rods.
Nice what pistons? I was leaning towards wiseco only because I've used them before in different cars and had good results.
Oh that's right, thanks. Rephased - why was it replaced in the build 03' white snake?
Stock crank is built by Kellogg. They don't make them anymore so they are hard to come by. I didn't want a stroker crank or a Chinese forged one.
My stock crank was bent. The thrust surface was trashed. Pretty sure it happened putting it in the wrong gear at the track. Tore up the bearings. That was the reason for the build.
Damn.... the money shift.Stock crank is built by Kellogg. They don't make them anymore so they are hard to come by. I didn't want a stroker crank or a Chinese forged one.
My stock crank was bent. The thrust surface was trashed. Pretty sure it happened putting it in the wrong gear at the track. Tore up the bearings. That was the reason for the build.
The $ shift
Damn.... the money shift.
That's probably gonna be pretty close to what I settle on. I want it to make 4 digit power for the track, and still be manageable/ driveable down tuned on the street. I've missed car shows and meets going to sea and being up north so I want to take advantage of the times I can go, and I love my termi so why not make it everything I want lol. How much boost do you plan on running anyway?I built mine to handle 4 digit power. I did everything within reason to my engine. Cost me over 12k and I assembled it and set my cam timing myself.
Brand new Kellogg crank, balanced ect.
0.020" over, -5.22 dish custom diamond pistons, valve reliefs, with hardcoat anodized tops with moly skirts, h13 pins. Stock rods, calico coated main and rod bearings (about 10.3 CR),
Diamond steel rings,
arp 2000 everything... rod, main, side, head studs.
Ford Racing timing kit,
Ford Racing oil pump with boundary billet gears,
custom bullit cams,
MHS stage 2 springs, seals, Ford lash adjusters, cloyes cam gears, trick flow crank gears,
Cometic head gaskets 0.040",
Went with Ford gaskets on everything else. Changed over all the coolant lines to AN, MM oil filter relocation, also converted to AN lines.
Some will argue with my part choice but I am happy with it and picked everything myself.
I did break a factory rod in 2016. If you are building a new engine for 4 digit power, sell your Manley's and get the Molnar rods.
Just a twin turbo car with a turbo 400. Broke on the street at tx2k16. Was making probably 950 this nightHow much power were you making when it let go? Any more details on your setup when it broke?
No, was a brand new engine, maybe 400 miles. Bearings looked perfect, didn't detonate, just snapped in half.Damn... Piston wasn't swelling in the bore was it? Takes a set of balls to break it like that.
Just a twin turbo car with a turbo 400. Broke on the street at tx2k16. Was making probably 950 this night